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Leaking sump on 100 series diesel !

Richard HEath

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Jan 20, 2018
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great_britain
Only 3 months ago I replaced the sump on our 120 series, I now find that the 100 series has the same problem, is this condition contagious and should I park them away from each other to avoid any other cross contamination !
Just wondered if any one else has had the same issue and what guidance you might have on sourcing a sump and degree of difficulty in carrying out the replacement!

Thanks to all those who helped me sort the previous issue, that being a total lack of power, turned out to be a blocked cat curred by fitting Milners decat pipe !

Thank you for your help

Best wishes

Richard
 
The sump on my fathers 100 has recently become porous..
 
Hi,

Did this a couple of years ago on the drive, got a new pan through Amayama, delivered from Japan with the import tax paid it was half what Mr T's was wanting.

I'm not a mechanic but will give anything a try, having said that i did wonder at one point if i'd bit off too much!
Took me 8 weeks but i was working away from home 6 days a week and having to fit in all the other commitments along with sneaking a few hours here or there.

Job, lift car as high as possible, place chassis on axle stands, front wheels off calipers off, seperate lower ball joints an pull out half shafts by lifting lower wishbones out of your way.
Front diff off a front drive shaft. mind diff breather pipe, i forgot!
Empty engine oil.
Slacken of steering rack, didn,t need to remove it, but the front set of bolts for the pan were quite obscured by it from memory. Need the wriggle room too to get the pan out as it snag on the oil lift pipe.
Get sump off, clean mating face on engine block.
Apply plenty of new gasket seal and put new pan in.
I ran the car for a bit before putting everything back together just to be certain it was sealed, but that's just me not trusting myself.
Put it all back together again.


Good luck if you choose to go with it.

4 Paw Drive
 
Could it be easier to just lift the engine a bit?
 
Hi,

Did this a couple of years ago on the drive, got a new pan through Amayama, delivered from Japan with the import tax paid it was half what Mr T's was wanting.

I'm not a mechanic but will give anything a try, having said that i did wonder at one point if i'd bit off too much!
Took me 8 weeks but i was working away from home 6 days a week and having to fit in all the other commitments along with sneaking a few hours here or there.

Job, lift car as high as possible, place chassis on axle stands, front wheels off calipers off, seperate lower ball joints an pull out half shafts by lifting lower wishbones out of your way.
Front diff off a front drive shaft. mind diff breather pipe, i forgot!
Empty engine oil.
Slacken of steering rack, didn,t need to remove it, but the front set of bolts for the pan were quite obscured by it from memory. Need the wriggle room too to get the pan out as it snag on the oil lift pipe.
Get sump off, clean mating face on engine block.
Apply plenty of new gasket seal and put new pan in.
I ran the car for a bit before putting everything back together just to be certain it was sealed, but that's just me not trusting myself.
Put it all back together again.


Good luck if you choose to go with it.

4 Paw Drive
Christ! So its not like replacing the 80 sump then..
 
Christ! So its not like replacing the 80 sump then..

Not being a mechanic i probably didn't approach it the way they would. I just loosened the bits i needed to as and when i needed to, instead of taking off everything in one go.

I think it was an 80 owner on another forum that gave me the initial advise on its removal, so i went in thinking next to nothing needed removing but as time went on i realised there was a whole lot more to it.

Just put it down to lack of experience.

4PD
 
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Interesting thoughts, Ive not tryed the opperation yet, it sounds quite involved. Is uHu's sugestion of lifting the engine a little, a solution to removing so much kit ?

Thanks to all for the input, Ill report back asap!
 
At least I used less than 8 weeks to swap around engines and gearboxes in two cruisers. The bolts for the flywheel-to-converter and gearbox-to-engine were the most time consuming, iirc.
 
many people have had the issue.
Ah, that's the man. What's the best way to change it then?
And is there a way to avoid the problem in the first place? Remove that padding e.g.?
 
Ah, that's the man. What's the best way to change it then?
And is there a way to avoid the problem in the first place? Remove that padding e.g.?

i beleive the padding doesnt help. the 24v 80s also had the padding and they seem to have issues more than the 12v. im not saying that is the only reason.
 
On the 80 its better to jack the truck off the chasie to give you more room under the truck but leave the wheels on the ground. ive never had to change one on the 100 so carnt really give an answer sorry.
 
i beleive the padding doesnt help. the 24v 80s also had the padding and they seem to have issues more than the 12v. im not saying that is the only reason.
Padding isn't inherently the problem. Look at Australian Land Cruisers: they have no issues with rusty sumps and they have foam padding. Instead, the problem is the humidity of the UK and that the Council salts the roads during winter which compounds the problem. Also, going by the few 80's and 100's I have looked at recently, no one bothers to wash off the salt weekly or underseal their £40k+ vehicle when it's new. So now I'm saving up for a decent South African/OZ import 100/80.
 
the
Padding isn't inherently the problem. Look at Australian Land Cruisers: they have no issues with rusty sumps and they have foam padding. Instead, the problem is the humidity of the UK and that the Council salts the roads during winter which compounds the problem. Also, going by the few 80's and 100's I have looked at recently, no one bothers to wash off the salt weekly or underseal their £40k+ vehicle when it's new. So now I'm saving up for a decent South African/OZ import 100/80.

The padding ends up trapping the salts etc though. without it there water etc can splash up.
only going on what other people have said to me in the past and it made sense.
 
The sump on my '100' is leaking as well. I was hoping that I only needed to remove the chassis cross-member to get it out but it sounds as though the diff has to be dropped as well.

I tried patching it with some of that two-pack filler, but the problem seems to be spreading.

Its not a job I'm looking forward to at all.

Bob.
 
The padding was what caused my initial leak, so it's now on a shelf in my hut.
But on inspection of the old sump this wasn't the only area that was getting thin on metal.

As i said previously i'm no mechanic, but entered into it with little knowledge of what was required, that and only a couple of hours on a Sunday and a basic tool kit doesn't lead to a quick fix.

Knowledge is nothing without experience.

Good luck

FPD
 
The sump on my '100' is leaking as well. I was hoping that I only needed to remove the chassis cross-member to get it out but it sounds as though the diff has to be dropped as well.

I tried patching it with some of that two-pack filler, but the problem seems to be spreading.

Its not a job I'm looking forward to at all.

Bob.
The old chaps in the same situation exactly.
 
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