Leaky Landcruiser 80 (image heavy)

[steverjuk]

So I finally managed to get hold of an 80 for a silly cheap price (24v, manual, 110k miles), after some eBay winning, then some arguing when arriving as they didn't post all the problems it had with it, any.

Now I own an 80 series oo and also a Defender 90.

View attachment 154395

But it has some major problems:

1) Both rear windows (left and right) are leaking and have moss growing in them, as well as this, the sliding windows rattle around when you try to open them.
View attachment 154396

This is leading some rust appearing at the bottom of the boot
View attachment 154397

I'm just wondering if you can buy replacement window seals, if so where and what are they called? I've googled but can't seem to get the correct set of words.

2) The front driver's side has some wet carpet and rust in the door well
View attachment 154398

The driver's door has some water marks on it near the hinge, some I'm wondering if it's running door the driver's door and into the footwell, as you can see from the wet carpet and rust. The seal seems fine, am I missing something?

3) The abs and handbrake light are on, just checked the brake fluid level and it's below the minimum, so ordered some dot 3 synthetics and hopefully, that will fix that.

4) The rear diff lock refuses to engage, the front and middle seem fine, the light just flashes and nothing happens. Is it best just getting a replacement rear diff lock or tapping it etc?

5) Cruiser control, I press the cruise control button the light comes on and then when I take my foot off the accelerator
I slow down, am I doing something wrong? or will it not work because of the ABS light.

 

[StarCruiser]

1, look on Amayama for new window units. Don’t know if they’re available New. If not you’ll be lucky to find some in really good condition but you could try @karl webster on here. Otherwise consider swapping them out for gullwing doors. See threads on here and me.

The windows are easily removed as a unit. Expect some body repairs underneath and look behind the rear bumper quarters for rust holes as this is a known area for rust.

What does it look like underneath?

2, look for leakage round your windscreen from the bottom corners of the glass when it rains. If the screen has even replaced it’s probably been leaking. Lift the trim on the sill threshold area and you can then lift the carpet with a plastic channel that holds cables. Usually the channel this sits in gets full of water and if it’s been parked on a slope may well be running to the front and wetting the carpet.

3, as long as you use the same or later brake fluid that should solve the lights but check your brake pads. These are big beasts and brake hungry. Milners ceramic pads are pretty good and cheap enough to change regularly. Use Toyota parts for other things though unless recommended otherwise.

4, Don’t tap it you may destroy it. Investigate it properly. Replacements are available from members or Amayama. Not cheap.

5, unsure as I don’t have it but your logic makes sense.

Hope this helps.

Finally you may find it easier to use the ‘upload a file’ button below to upload pictures into the thread.

 

[stumog]

For the rear diff lock find a big gravel or mud area, something that gives not tarmac. And fire on the rear locker and do lots of big circles. This seemed to sort mine when I first got it. Failing that check the magnets in the motor. Then if that fails check the rod I the diff is free. Mine was seized last time

 

[Chris]

All sounds fairly fixable.

 

[Towpack]

The strip of exterior trim on the rear sliding windows secures with some clips on thin rubber gaskets. If these gaskets are shot, water will leak inside. I resealed mine with some silicone gasket under the clips. If water is getting in here and you park facing down hill, it’ll run down over the wheel arch, along the cable trough under the sill trim panels and soak carpet in the front foot wells. This happened to me when I left one of the rear sliding windows open one night and it rained heavy. On the top of the bulkhead under the bonnet on the driver’s side there’s a large cable entry grommet. I’ve also had water creep in here during very heavy rain or when washing it.
Try jacking up the rear end to get both wheels off the floor and play around with the diff lock. If it won’t lock in this situation with no load on the diff then it’ll probably need stripping and freeing or replacing assuming the electrics are OK.
To activate cruise control, switch it on with the end button (light comes on) then tap the lever down momentarily at the speed you want to hold. Tapping it down repeatedly decreasescruise speed in 1mph increments and tapping the lever up increases speed by the same degree. Pulling the lever back towards the steering wheel cancels it. Touching the brakes or dipping the clutch also cancels it.
The cruise control won’t work below 25mph or if the ABS light is on, for instance, with low box and CDL engaged which deactivates the ABS.

 

[Chris]

Or very often if someone has fitted LED low resistance brake lights bulbs. The cruise is connected to the braking circuit. It is possible therefore that your brake issues might be affecting its operation. But of course as TP rightly points out, you actually have to set it first. If it won't then it's worth looking at the brakes.

I have an 80 on which the ONLY single fault on the whole vehicle is the the cruise won't set. I need to try a new ECU as I can't find any other obvious cause so far

 

[frank rabbets]

Ditto for me Chris but intermittent. I'm going to open up the ECU and talk to the points.

 

[steverjuk]

Firstly thanks for everyone's input and @karl webster for the window seal info, hopefully, Karl can source some front and back seals for me, so I can use my windows.

Update below

1) So I refitted the rear sliding window seals and it only leaks when you pressure wash the car, but I believe the trim underneath is letting in water, so going to slide it off and tiger seal all the clips under it. Luckily I don't need any new rear sliding window seals. Just a full set as all the window stick going down and up.

2) I still don't know where the water is coming from but, I have sanded and spray the rusty area for the time being to stop it getting any worse before I can find the leak. Just wondering if anyone knows who can reseal my windscreen as it's looking tatty, even if it's not leaking.

3) After filling the brake fluid I've fixed the always-on handbrake light but the ABS light is still on, I'm guessing I may need to clear the fault or investigate further.

4) Going to have to take it off and give the rear a diff lock a good clean and check it's receiving power, I'll do this when it's not raining.

5) Well, the cruise control works perfectly, I'm just simply and didn't know how to turn it on.

One thing I've noticed is when you turn the car on all the warning lights are on until you blip the throttle and then they all clear, I'm guessing the alternator may be on the way out, or am I missing something?

 

[StarCruiser]

1, Just get new trims (if they’re the ones that continue back from the door/window line) from Amayama, they’re about £35 each all in.

2, You sound pretty useful on the spanner’s so the screen is a straightforward enough job to do yourself as long as it’s one that’s fitted with a rubber. Generally the car glass companies only know how to do bonded in. Get yourself some of this https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/372080694563 and search for my posts on windscreen refitting on here. You’ll just need an extra pair of hands and a dry wind free day. Be prepared for some rust under as well.

3, Not sure but you could try disconnecting the battery to reset the ABS. Might work, others might know.

Check your battery voltage after start before blipping. Should be 14.4v or very close. It might pay to take the alternator off to the bench and remove the cover and regulator/brushes and give the whole thing a clean making sure the brushes push in and out easily. Lightly clean the slip rings with 1000 grit wet/dry. Check for corrosion on the plug at the back before removal. Try wiggling it while testing the voltage before blipping.

 

[steverjuk]

1) It's not the trim that's the problem it's the clips underneath, they have a paper gasket and that's failed I think, just going to tiger seal it.

2) I'm not 100% sure it's the windscreen yet as it's 1/2 between the front of the door and back of the door, the carpet is wet next to the plastic trim on the driver's door. Going to pull the carpet once it stops raining and try to trace it back.

3) Going to the do the abs jumper and read the code then clear it using the 8 pedal press thing. Hopefully, it will not come back now the fluid is full. The guy did say they both came on at the same time.

Went to get my meter and I can't locate it anywhere in the house I did have two meters but now they have disappeared. So ordered another one and going to check the idle voltage when it arrives, it's strange how all the warning lights are on until you blip the throttle unless they don't detect the engines running until the voltage increases.

 

[steverjuk]

So updates whoop:

1) I think I've stopped the leaks removed the rear trim and used dum dum to create new gaskets.

I've uploaded a video showing the ABS fault codes if I'm reading this correctly the codes are

1 - 2
Short circuit in ABS control (solenoid) relay circuit
1 - 4
Short Circuit in ABS control (motor) relay circuit

Am I reading this wrong as that seems like I've got a short somewhere?

 

[StarCruiser]

Where are you getting your ABS info from? It seems like 1-2 and 1-4 to me so if that's what the code says then that’s the fault it suspects but it’s open to interpretation as all these codes are. Trace your wiring and check the plug is mated correctly and there are no breaks in the wires, corrosion or water. Then you could try removing the plug from the ABS unit and see what happens. If you still get codes 1-2 and 1-4 in amongst all the other codes then the fault lies elsewhere.

 

[StarCruiser]

It’s not the voltage being sensed but the output from the regulator. Have you tried the remedies and tests in post 9 above?

I know it’s the clips on the trim BTW. It’s just that they usually break when trying to remove the trim but if you’ve managed to remove seal and refit with no dramas then that’s great.

 

[steverjuk]

Only thing I've tested currenelty is with a multimeter, when you start the car the batteries are reading just over 12, then for the first 30-45 seconds the output of the alternator climbs between 12v - 14v and all the warning lights on the dash are still on, when you blip the throttle it jumps to around 14.5 and the lights go off just wondering if it could be the voltage regulator on the alternator.
Ill pull the alternator once it stops raining, although I did notice some belt squeal when I mashed the throttle a few times.

 

[StarCruiser]

The answer is it could very well be the regulator but one of the rules of troubleshooting is to check the simple things first. Another is to prove a part faulty before replacing it.
Check the plug first.
Belts are loose or damaged or both with it squealing. Sounds possible it could be brushes, connections or regulator.

 

[steverjuk]

Once it stops p*ssing it down, I will pull the alternator, may just order another as it's always handy having a spare if the current one is working fine.

 

[Shayne]

 

[thelal]

I popped mine off and replaced with new. Did have leak in same spots
If know you could slide out I'd have done the same

 

[The old school]

The rear window could be a issue, i would not do it myself as i have tried before with some other seals on Jap cars.
Just a quick comment a the ABS which i have the light on couple of weeks ago . but it does not flash like yours helpful that would help.
I speculated it could be leak from the knuckle that cause the light on. however no time to investigate ：（
While how you get code ? i have been told that you need a special code reader or sth like it so did you get the code from a garage or somewhere else

good luck with it

 

[steverjuk]

So the updates are below:

1) The abs fault was actually the abs ecu in the driver's footwell thanks to @Trevor and @karl webster for helping me out with it.
2) The current draw/dash lights taking a while to go off was a mixture of the preheater and abs fault @Trevor found the preheater problem and once I fixed the abs ecu it's all sorted.
3) @Trevor fixed the rear diff lock it has totally rusted out new one sourced thanks to @karl webster
4) The cruise control works perfectly I just didn't know how to use it.

Just like to sing @Trevor praises for spending way longer than any mechanic would have troubleshooting the problems and @karl webster for sourcing an ABS ECU. If you ever need any work doing on your cruisers get @Trevor to do it.