Limping when turning now limping on straight run in 2017 GXL single cab 70 series

[James De Pellegrin]

Hi all,
After purchasing a brand new 70 series land cruiser in November 2017 Manual diesel, I have had an issue with the ute going into limp mode which seemed to only occur whilst making a right turn or going through a round about! I have told Toyota and they seem useless at finding out the issue let alone can’t seem to make it occur whilst they are driving it, and claim it to be my “driving style”! I told them that I nurse the ute and don’t give it a hiding, I have spent months trying to determine the main contributing factors and this is what I have come up with.....
It’s not traction control (have pushed the ire through a wet round about to make the traction control go off, and it’s nothing like what I get when going into limp mode)

Secondly, no lights what so ever come up on my dash and doesn’t throw a fault code.

Happens no matter what level the fuel is in the tank!

I have taken everything out of the back of the ute to ensure I’m not “overloading” the ute as Toyota try to suggest

My thoughts are that the accelerator pedal is shit , or it’s something going wrong with the electrics! tomorrow I plan on swapping the accelerator pedal with a mate who has the exact same ute to see if that makes a difference (which I’m praying it will) as I’m starting to loose my shit with this issue as it starting to do it at lights and straight runs !

What’s everyone else think?

P.S I have my ute remapped with Egr blanked off and particulate filter removed. (Note: issue was happening previous to having this done (20,000 kms prior)

 

[Chris Boorer]

If this happened before the remap and egr, I would be looking at a faulty wheel sensor or maybe a vacume leak somewhere the strange thing is not lights coming on maybe also check you battery and chassis earths

 

[James De Pellegrin]

If this happened before the remap and egr, I would be looking at a faulty wheel sensor or maybe a vacume leak somewhere the strange thing is not lights coming on maybe also check you battery and chassis earths

Yeah perfect, thanks mate will look into that too, I put battery on charge last night (whilst disconnected from ute) to make sure the battery had nothing to do with it! I will check earths when daylight comes round.
The no lights are a mystery it would make my life a lot easier if they were coming on!!

 

[StarCruiser]

Yeah perfect, thanks mate will look into that too, I put battery on charge last night (whilst disconnected from ute) to make sure the battery had nothing to do with it! I will check earths when daylight comes round.
The no lights are a mystery it would make my life a lot easier if they were coming on!!

Hi, you say no lights and no code are registered, but you say it ‘goes into limp mode’. Limp mode would throw a Check Engine Light and record a code.
Sounds like suction control valves to me or a loose or corroded connection. It may not be of course. Don’t be too hard on Toyota for not diagnosing it. Intermittent faults on vehicles are the hardest thing to replicate and find but if you don’t get a CEL or code then SCVs are known to give trouble on 120s, d4d collies and 1kzt-e collies too. Intake leak is a good call to check for but I would expect this to throw a light.

 

[James De Pellegrin]

Hi, you say no lights and no code are registered, but you say it ‘goes into limp mode’. Limp mode would throw a Check Engine Light and record a code.
Sounds like suction control valves to me or a loose or corroded connection. It may not be of course. Don’t be too hard on Toyota for not diagnosing it. Intermittent faults on vehicles are the hardest thing to replicate and find but if you don’t get a CEL or code then SCVs are known to give trouble on 120s, d4d collies and 1kzt-e collies too. Intake leak is a good call to check for but I would expect this to throw a light.

Thanks for your advice mate, yeah I don’t know if it is actually limp mode I’m just loosing all acceleration (get thrown forward like I have taken my foot completely off the accelerator)! I’m not having a go at Toyota for not diagnosing it, I’m just not happy that they are coming up with excuses for not wanting to find it, saying it’s my drive style and now saying that because I have a tune that they don’t want to even bother because they are assuming that that’s the problem even though I have it on record that it was happening prior to me having it done..... it’s just the one dealer which I Purchased the ute from, I have since gone to another dealer which have been really helpful and are actually wanting to help me.... anyhow
I had swapped the accelerator pedal from my ute with a mates who has the same ute and it didn’t change anything (was hoping it might have been the sensor in the pedal) , but still loosing power, I will have to get the suction control valves checked! Do you know what’s involved with that? Toyota dealer? Or is it that I have to buy new ones and swap them over? Sorry about the long winded replies but yeah just wanna try everything to get rid of it! I’m going to change my battery terminal clamps today with some more heavy duty ones! That will at least remove the doubt of conductivity. Thanks again for your help and knowledge

 

[StarCruiser]

If your battery starts the vehicle and the terminals are no warmer than before the truck was started there is no problem with them. The more scientific way to check is to put the lights, rear demise and blower fan on and check with a multimeter set to Volts from the battery post to the clamp. You should see close to zero Volts with a good connection. You can do this from the - post too, to any point that should be earthed and you should get more hundredths or even tenths of a volt but no more than that. I doubt they are at fault.

SCVs could be your problem. Have a search on here for SCVs, Suction Control Valves and have acread and satisfy yourself. There seems from what I’ve read here that there is a test prescribed by Toyota in their FSM but it seems this isn’t absolute. Check for poor connections first, a plug not pushed on properly for instance. If you do find this, check for corrosion. If nothing then you may have to replace them to see if it cures the fault. If you do change them ensure total cleanliness, clean all around, and above the area if need be.