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LJ78 Electrical to Manual Hub Conversion. Please help
- Thread starter kkmm
- Start date
graysworld
Active Member
- Joined
- May 27, 2015
- Messages
- 98
Here is what I did on my KZJ78
I have finally finished rebuilding my front hubs and converting from electric locking hubs to manual ones. Thanks to everyone for the advice. I thought I would share what I did to overcome the fact that the manual wheel hubs i.e. the part the wheel bolts to and houses the bearings are longer on the manual than the electric ones. The choices are sourcing second-hand Hilux ones which I could not find, or new ones are available for £84 each at the time of writing on eBay.
I bought new stub axles and cv joints from Milner 4x4. They were very helpful cross-referencing parts. I needed at least one new stub axle as the bearing had been slipping and had knackered the old one. I decided to replace the CV’s as they did not look too good and while it was all apart there was no point in not. I used the own brand stuff from Milner with an assurance from them that it was okay…time will tell but I could not afford the top of the range stuff and I am not going to be extreme off roading. Problems I had to get over were mainly the hub being too short by 14mm. An engineer friend took the old electric hubs cut them and machined spacers from them. Photo below. He also made me some extra studs as the electric hub has 4 and the manual has 6. The extra holes in the hub were filled with four turned down Allen bolts these then acted as locating pins. The next problem is blocking the hole where the cable for the electric hub goes. I used the original bung, removed the cable and filled with silicone gasket maker. Next was the new wheel bearing nuts and tab washer would not fit as the bearings are effectively further in the hub. The old bearing nut and locking washer with countersink Torx screws can be used. The original hub nut has a ‘built in’ spacer. I think this is a better system for locking the nut in place. I removed the electrical contact ring from the outside of the lock nut.
I have also replaced swivel bearings and seals. There was quite a groove worn in the balls on the ends of the axle casing. I cleaned the grooves filled with JB Weld and sanded them down and painted them.
New brake discs (rotors) and pads and put new pistons and seals in the callipers and replaced all the flexible brake hoses. So, all in all a good job done. Unfortunately, the original rumble that I thought was the wheel bearings is still there! Time for Another post!
So, more questions in another post thanks for the help and advice. Graeme
1995 KZJ78 Japenese import to UK
1997 Iveco daily 40-10 4x4 Chassis cab self build camper
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I have finally finished rebuilding my front hubs and converting from electric locking hubs to manual ones. Thanks to everyone for the advice. I thought I would share what I did to overcome the fact that the manual wheel hubs i.e. the part the wheel bolts to and houses the bearings are longer on the manual than the electric ones. The choices are sourcing second-hand Hilux ones which I could not find, or new ones are available for £84 each at the time of writing on eBay.
I bought new stub axles and cv joints from Milner 4x4. They were very helpful cross-referencing parts. I needed at least one new stub axle as the bearing had been slipping and had knackered the old one. I decided to replace the CV’s as they did not look too good and while it was all apart there was no point in not. I used the own brand stuff from Milner with an assurance from them that it was okay…time will tell but I could not afford the top of the range stuff and I am not going to be extreme off roading. Problems I had to get over were mainly the hub being too short by 14mm. An engineer friend took the old electric hubs cut them and machined spacers from them. Photo below. He also made me some extra studs as the electric hub has 4 and the manual has 6. The extra holes in the hub were filled with four turned down Allen bolts these then acted as locating pins. The next problem is blocking the hole where the cable for the electric hub goes. I used the original bung, removed the cable and filled with silicone gasket maker. Next was the new wheel bearing nuts and tab washer would not fit as the bearings are effectively further in the hub. The old bearing nut and locking washer with countersink Torx screws can be used. The original hub nut has a ‘built in’ spacer. I think this is a better system for locking the nut in place. I removed the electrical contact ring from the outside of the lock nut.
I have also replaced swivel bearings and seals. There was quite a groove worn in the balls on the ends of the axle casing. I cleaned the grooves filled with JB Weld and sanded them down and painted them.
New brake discs (rotors) and pads and put new pistons and seals in the callipers and replaced all the flexible brake hoses. So, all in all a good job done. Unfortunately, the original rumble that I thought was the wheel bearings is still there! Time for Another post!
So, more questions in another post thanks for the help and advice. Graeme
1995 KZJ78 Japenese import to UK
1997 Iveco daily 40-10 4x4 Chassis cab self build camper
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GreatScot
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- Mar 10, 2019
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hey @graysworld can you please post more photos of your set up? i'm thinking about doing exactly this with mine and just need a bit more visual info if possible.
Also, have you had any issues with the spacer? Love the idea of cutting down the original part!
Also, have you had any issues with the spacer? Love the idea of cutting down the original part!
graysworld
Active Member
- Joined
- May 27, 2015
- Messages
- 98
Sorry I have sold the vehicle so don't have any more photos. Had no issues at all with spacer though. The rest is straight forward enough. If you have the money then it is easier to by Hilux hubs.
Graeme
Graeme
