Lost my Turbo Lights and very loose rear wheel studs

[Trevor]

Having laid the 70 up last October, I have been doing bits and bobs in readiness for the MOT. Starter motor had siezed and I have replaced that with another one (cheers Ben ) so the old girl now starts just fine, but now the Turbo light does not come on anymore. Both the green and red lights illuminate when the ignition switches on and then go out as normal but nothing at all from the green one when driven.

I double checked the wiring loom by the starter in case I had disturbed anything but can't see anything obvious, so, any ideas?

I knew I had to adjust the rear brake shoes as the handbrake was virtually non existent, so I dropped both rear wheels and the brake drums. I need to change the shoes as one side had been badly worn from my last incursion into the mud, this is when I noticed that the wheel studs have now become loose from the end plate of the halfshaft, I suspect that this may be from running on wheel spacers that have not fully connected to the end plate and allowed lateral movement. I have removed the spacers for the MOT and the wheel nuts have pulled the studs back into place but not sure if it's wise to run like this in the longer term, anyone have a view or further advice?

Many thanks

Trev

 

[Roger Fairclough]

Having laid the 70 up last October, I have been doing bits and bobs in readiness for the MOT. Starter motor had siezed and I have replaced that with another one (cheers Ben ) so the old girl now starts just fine, but now the Turbo light does not come on anymore. Both the green and red lights illuminate when the ignition switches on and then go out as normal but nothing at all from the green one when driven.

I double checked the wiring loom by the starter in case I had disturbed anything but can't see anything obvious, so, any ideas?

I knew I had to adjust the rear brake shoes as the handbrake was virtually non existent, so I dropped both rear wheels and the brake drums. I need to change the shoes as one side had been badly worn from my last incursion into the mud, this is when I noticed that the wheel studs have now become loose from the end plate of the halfshaft, I suspect that this may be from running on wheel spacers that have not fully connected to the end plate and allowed lateral movement. I have removed the spacers for the MOT and the wheel nuts have pulled the studs back into place but not sure if it's wise to run like this in the longer term, anyone have a view or further advice?

Many thanks

Trev

With any lift you need to reset the brake pressure valve. The valve has an arm that is connected to the back axle via a shorter arm. It is this arm you need to lengthen by the same amount as the lift.

Roger

 

[Trevor]

Thanks for that Roger, the lift had been carried out by WC by the previous owner so I would hope that part had been done too but I'll have a look tomorrow. If it hasn't been done then that might explain why a brand new set of shoes on one side have worn after only Octobers Lincomb and one play day.

Is the arm you mean the one that connects directly to the valve or the one that connects to the axle?

 

[Roger Fairclough]

Thanks for that Roger, the lift had been carried out by WC by the previous owner so I would hope that part had been done too but I'll have a look tomorrow. If it hasn't been done then that might explain why a brand new set of shoes on one side have worn after only Octobers Lincomb and one play day.

Is the arm you mean the one that connects directly to the valve or the one that connects to the axle?

It's the short arm that connects to the axle casing. Part of it is adjustable for fine setting, but you will need to make a new section that will be 50mm longer (the same as your lift). Without it, your back brakes wont work. To prove this to yourself, clamp off the front brakes and drive the car at 20 mph max. Then jump on the brakes. You will need the h/brake to stop so be prepared.

Mud is dirt and water. Dirt is highly abrasive and the water makes it into a grinding paste. Driving in mud creates serious damage to dozens of components. My trick is to drive 6 times through a local ford. This removes 95% of the mud from the wheel arches etc. Then my pressure washer gets the rest off. I strip the back brakes out on a regular basis. I grease the props before and after each green lane run. I put EP oil into the front hubs to mix with the grease. Yes it leaks a little, but the benefits outweigh the drips.

Roger

 

[Roger Fairclough]

Did you fit 25mm spacers? If so the wheel studs would need shortening by about 5mm. This would explain why your studs were loose.

Have you checked the turbo bulb?

Roger

 

[Trevor]

The wheel spacers are 30mm, turbo bulb is okay as it illuminates during the ignition startup but no longer illuminates when the truck is driven.

 

[Roger Fairclough]

On the KZJ70, the bulb comes on at the ignition switch stage but goes out when the engine starts. If it comes on during engine running, then the turbo is over boosting.

When you have your wheel spacers fitted, do the studs---the Toyota ones---protrude beyond the surface of the spacers? Also, are the spacers made of steel or aluminium.

Roger

 

[Jimbo4x4]

Thanks for that Roger, the lift had been carried out by WC by the previous owner so I would hope that part had been done too but I'll have a look tomorrow. If it hasn't been done then that might explain why a brand new set of shoes on one side have worn after only Octobers Lincomb and one play day.

Make sure the handbrake cable has been dropped on the rear chassis mount. I missed this when I lifted my truck and my n/s handbrake shoes nearly wore out after only a few months. I just got a 2" square of 3mm scrap steel and drilled four holes in it to drop the mount onto.

Jim.

 

[Roger Fairclough]

Thanks for that Roger, the lift had been carried out by WC by the previous owner so I would hope that part had been done too but I'll have a look tomorrow. If it hasn't been done then that might explain why a brand new set of shoes on one side have worn after only Octobers Lincomb and one play day.

Make sure the handbrake cable has been dropped on the rear chassis mount. I missed this when I lifted my truck and my n/s handbrake shoes nearly wore out after only a few months. I just got a 2" square of 3mm scrap steel and drilled four holes in it to drop the mount onto.

Jim.

Yes, Jim has made a valid point. You can either extend the original canvas style slotted stabiliser mount or junk it. I did the latter and just wrapped some pipe insulation around the cable where it touches the axle casing.

Roger

 

[wobbly]

On my 78 the turbo light comes on at about 1800rpm.

Makes for an interesting journey, trying to drive without the turbo light coming on.

Although the light isnt coming on, does the truck drive as before, ie the turbo is spooling up and doing its job?

Pete

 

[Roger Fairclough]

If the turbocharger warning light comes on ( 2L-T and 1KZ-T engines), then the turbo is over boosting. The handbook suggests you slow down until the light goes out, and have the vehicle checked by your Toyota dealer, AS SOON AS POSSIBLE.

Over boosting will increase the engine temperature and could lead to damaged head, valves or gaskets etc.

Roger

 

[Trevor]

I have 2 lights for the turbo, an amber one which is for a fault condition (which does not come on during driving). There is also a green one which would usually come on somewhere around the 1500 to 2000 RPM mark, it is this one that no longer comes on when driving and according to the manual indicates normal operation.

The amber one is the fault light you refer to.

 

[karl webster]

May have already been mentioned,but could be as simple as the bulb

Karl

 

[Trevor]

Bulb comes on during ignition Karl

 

[karl webster]

I agree that if the red warning light comes on then there is reason for concern or investigate the problem. If the green light isnt coming on but the truck is driving as it should and your not down on power i personally wouldnt be to fussed.

karl

 

[Roger Fairclough]

There are two types of instrument panels, one with a tachometer, and one without. Which have you got? Also, whereabouts on the panel is this green light?

Roger

 

[ModelMakerMan]

Roger, I believe there are 4 types some of the 2LT engined 70 series Ive seen have the same instrument layout as the KZJ70 but there is a green turbo light on the tachometer opposite the red turbo light. And also there is the facelifted dash which has an entirely different cluster, also with green turbo light I believe? Something like this:

 

[Roger Fairclough]

Roger, I believe there are 4 types some of the 2LT engined 70 series Ive seen have the same instrument layout as the KZJ70 but there is a green turbo light on the tachometer opposite the red turbo light. And also there is the facelifted dash which has an entirely different cluster, also with green turbo light I believe? Something like this:

Cheers Dave.

I took my info from the Toyota owners manual (drivers hand book). Your picture is entirely different and somewhat confusing. It shows 500rpm on the tacho but the lights that should have gone out are still illuminated! Odd that.

Roger

 

[ModelMakerMan]

I dont think the picture is from a 70 series, its the only picture I could find (Google) thats similar to the type of lights Ive seen on the LJ dash.

Not sure why all the ligth are on in that pic, its almost like the ignition is in the on position without the engine started 9to get all the lights on) but the tacho reads as if the engine is on (very low) tickover, maybe the tacho is faulty?

 

[Roger Fairclough]

The oil pressure gauge is also reading.

Any news on your wheels?

Roger