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There 80 series clocks.
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Lost my Turbo Lights and very loose rear wheel studs
- Thread starter Trevor
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Trevor
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ModelMakerMan
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Yeah thats the type Ive seen on LJs its just an extra light on the tacho.
Errr where is your oil pressure needle?
Roger Fairclough
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The fuel gauge doe's not have a low fuel indicator light. Could that extra light on the tacho be the low fuel light?
Roger
Roger
wobbly
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The green light in the photo comes on at about 1800rpm (ish), and shows normal operation of the turbo (it might be indicating the wastegate is operating correctly).
The red light shows a fault (iirc wastegate fault).
It might be worth checking the wiring at the turbo end?
Pete
The red light shows a fault (iirc wastegate fault).
It might be worth checking the wiring at the turbo end?
Pete
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Anders Ernst
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I also have the problem with the red light turning on. To check the boost I bought a turbo manometer, and at maximum, the turbo delivers 0.75 bars of pressure. Isn't the normal pressure around 0.8?, which then means that my turbo ain't overboosting?
wobbly
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Belay that, my maths is a bit skew-whiff.
If 14ish lbs is 1 bar, then 0.75bar is 10.5ish lbs
So your reading of 0.75bar is almost at the correct operating pressure for a CT20. - if anything it is a fraction high (10.5lbs versus 10lbs)
Above 10lbs there would be an overboost, but as the same turbo runs on other models at up to 14lbs it shouldnt be a problem (ignoring any excess head temp issues!).
I dont know if a wastegate actuator fault and an overboost would both show the same symptoms though, ie red light on the dash.
Your height above or below the earths surface makes a difference, if youre up a high mountain then pressure drops, if your down deep then it increases.
Pete
If 14ish lbs is 1 bar, then 0.75bar is 10.5ish lbs
So your reading of 0.75bar is almost at the correct operating pressure for a CT20. - if anything it is a fraction high (10.5lbs versus 10lbs)
Above 10lbs there would be an overboost, but as the same turbo runs on other models at up to 14lbs it shouldnt be a problem (ignoring any excess head temp issues!).
I dont know if a wastegate actuator fault and an overboost would both show the same symptoms though, ie red light on the dash.
Your height above or below the earths surface makes a difference, if youre up a high mountain then pressure drops, if your down deep then it increases.
Pete
Trevor
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Further to my original post, the Landcruiser Pixies have stepped in and fixed the turbo light for me so that one was a bit of a mystery.
Roger or others, below are 3 photos of different brake bits that attach to the rear axle, could you kindly just confirm which one I need to extend, raise or lower by the amount of my bodylift before I do something rather silly?
Many thanks
Roger or others, below are 3 photos of different brake bits that attach to the rear axle, could you kindly just confirm which one I need to extend, raise or lower by the amount of my bodylift before I do something rather silly?
Many thanks
Roger Fairclough
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None of them.
The first is the bracket that supports the h/brake cable.
The second is the h/brake split linkage on the back of the axle.
The third is the support bracket for the open cable that connects item two to the o/s/r brake drum.
Now get back under and photograph the item that is mounted onto the off-side chassis rail, forward of the axle. It has brake pipes going in and coming out and a 5mm dia. rod extending from the bottom of it ("it" is the pressure control valve) and meeting a shorter rod that bolts to the rear of the axle case. It is this shorter rod that needs extending .
Roger
The first is the bracket that supports the h/brake cable.
The second is the h/brake split linkage on the back of the axle.
The third is the support bracket for the open cable that connects item two to the o/s/r brake drum.
Now get back under and photograph the item that is mounted onto the off-side chassis rail, forward of the axle. It has brake pipes going in and coming out and a 5mm dia. rod extending from the bottom of it ("it" is the pressure control valve) and meeting a shorter rod that bolts to the rear of the axle case. It is this shorter rod that needs extending .
Roger
ModelMakerMan
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Thats the one. I just made a plate that bolted to the original place on the diff housing which moved the mounting point higher by the same amount as my lift.
Roger Fairclough
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As Dave said (have you had my email/).
You can either make a bracket to suit (raise the bridge) or extend the threaded rod (lower the river).
Whilst you are at it, I suggest you check the following.
1) Is the h/brake cable liable to be kinked during full downward deflection?
2) Does the fibre board protection plate under the g/box rub on the front propshaft on full downward deflection.
3) Ditto the anti-roll bar.
Roger
You can either make a bracket to suit (raise the bridge) or extend the threaded rod (lower the river).
Whilst you are at it, I suggest you check the following.
1) Is the h/brake cable liable to be kinked during full downward deflection?
2) Does the fibre board protection plate under the g/box rub on the front propshaft on full downward deflection.
3) Ditto the anti-roll bar.
Roger
Roger Fairclough
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The valve regulates the pressure available to the rear brakes.
It is set at the factory, and requires a full blown rolling road with pressure testers on the front and rear brakes to re-set it.
The reason for this is to maximise the rear braking under extreme conditions I.E. light weight driver only, no load in the back, to 4 rugby players, max load in back plus full roofrack and a caravan on the back.
To do this the pressure available for scenario (1) is a lot less than scenario (2). Without modifying the control rod you have effectively reduced the pressure to the point that the rear brakes don't work, at all.
Because the load in the back of my LC is basically static, I removed all the control rods (look at the state yours are in) and converted the valve to a manual setting. I tested this out by adjusting the pressure to not quite lock up under full braking I.E. locking the front brakes. The MoT inspector was surprised at just how good the whole set-up is.
Modifying the valve is quite simple, but does require general mechanical knowledge and brazing skills.
Roger
It is set at the factory, and requires a full blown rolling road with pressure testers on the front and rear brakes to re-set it.
The reason for this is to maximise the rear braking under extreme conditions I.E. light weight driver only, no load in the back, to 4 rugby players, max load in back plus full roofrack and a caravan on the back.
To do this the pressure available for scenario (1) is a lot less than scenario (2). Without modifying the control rod you have effectively reduced the pressure to the point that the rear brakes don't work, at all.
Because the load in the back of my LC is basically static, I removed all the control rods (look at the state yours are in) and converted the valve to a manual setting. I tested this out by adjusting the pressure to not quite lock up under full braking I.E. locking the front brakes. The MoT inspector was surprised at just how good the whole set-up is.
Modifying the valve is quite simple, but does require general mechanical knowledge and brazing skills.
Roger
Trevor
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Thanks for the explanation Roger, makes perfect sense now. I think I will go for the standard modification, my Wife will tell me I have brazen skills and not the skills required for your second well engineered mod. This will explain why the braking efficiency test at the MOT returned a reading of 19 on the rear brakes (16 is the minimum allowed).
