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Milners selling greasable CV's?

Chris

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OK so out of stock at the second it says, but look, greasable CVs. I can't say if the CVs themselves are any better quality so don't ask me. I will drop in at some point and try and inspect on and report back. I've always liked the idea. And it puts the grease where is needs to be rather than just dolloping it in through the top hole.

https://www.milneroffroad.com/toyot...t-cv-joint-outer-flange-kit-1-side-greaseable
 
I'm sure you are probably already aware Chris but West coast off road are now doing the Terrain Tamer which I think are also grease nipples - cost is around £170 + VAT. They seem to have a pretty good name ... well at least can't find anything bad about them being said
 
I knew someone was but then I don't deal with WC as a rule.
 
Isnt the main issue with some after market cvs the fact that they can fail catastrophically when used heavily rather than simply wearing out?
 
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Hi Chris, By greasable CV's I'm presuming that there is a grease nipple on the end of the outer drive shaft with a drilling through to where the CV rollers and cage are to be lubricated as a service part with that black CV grease?
This would not interfere with the different type of grease which should be introduced through the square headed plug which is intended for the swivel bearings.
Greasable CV's seem like a good idea to me, especially in off roading situations where the ingress of water/mud is commonplace.
 
Not sure if Terrain Tamer is more pre-greased rather than having a grease nipple?
 
Andy, the filler plug is to top up the moly grease. The only way to get bearing grease into the swivel bearings is to pack them by hand.
 
The advantage in my view is to ba ble to refresh the CV grease that's packed into the Birfield joint. Over time it gets a bit thin and whilst it doesn't really displace much if done correctly, a couple of pumps every so often means that it gets refilled with fresh grease from the back. Anything that can prevent accelerated wear is good in my view. But cheap CVs still fail catastrophically. Because they're crap.
 
Andy, the filler plug is to top up the moly grease. The only way to get bearing grease into the swivel bearings is to pack them by hand.

With the greatest of respect Mike I think you are wrong.
From the 80 series factory handbook:-
IMG_1496.JPG


Firstly it refers to the items requiring lubrication as "the steering knuckles" and secondly the recommended lubricant is the same stuff they recommend to lubricate the U/J's on the next page, now even I know you only use the CV grease for CV joints and Lithium based NLGI No2 grease for bearings.
One thing to bear in mind is what happens to the grease when it goes through the hole, it rests on the outside of the CV joint exactly in line where the swivel bearings sit when the CV spins therefore a ring of NLGI no2 grease is created around the inside of the steering knuckle within the axle case where some of it lubricates the swivel bearings.
The position of where the grease enters and lands on the outside of the CV makes it impossible for the grease (of any kind ) to enter the CV where it is needed, thus my question about the location of the lubrication point.
The practical side of applying this recommended procedure is that (as I have said many times before) is that on my 1st Cruiser which was 2 years old when I bought it I fitted grease nipples to the plugs and greased the swivel housings every time I greased the props ( every 4500 miles). Before I sold it I removed the front wheels and split the track rod joints to see how it had worked over 16 years and 100K miles. the result was that they were perfect like they left the factory, no notches, barreling or grenading as it is called just smooth and no wear.
This is just as I see it Mike, the first thing I did when I got my first Cruiser was to read the handbook and I thought the bit about lubing the swivels was relevant as the Chevy's I'd had before all had greasable steering components and even on the most modern HGV's the only nipples on them are on the kingpins.
 
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The adding of MD grease through the filler plug is more to keep the wiper seals greased and water/dirt out than to lube the cage and bearings of the C.V IMO. Personally I don’t think lubing the swivel bearings or even the prop uj’s with MD grease instead of lithium bearing grease is that big a deal. Yes, these bearings are under a high load but their rotation is very limited compared to, say, a wheel bearing which is spinning at high speed and it’s certainly better than having little or no grease at all. JMO
 
The adding of MD grease through the filler plug is more to keep the wiper seals greased and water/dirt out than to lube the cage and bearings of the C.V IMO. Personally I don’t think lubing the swivel bearings or even the prop uj’s with MD grease instead of lithium bearing grease is that big a deal. Yes, these bearings are under a high load but their rotation is very limited compared to, say, a wheel bearing which is spinning at high speed and it’s certainly better than having little or no grease at all. JMO

You know what I'm like for lubeing things Phil, I even lube all the hinges on everything every month. However Toyota stated in their manual that this is something which should be done to lubricate the swivel bearings and if anyone looks next time they take their front axle down they will see how it works, (if they have ever bothered to inject grease where Toyota said to inject it).
 
I’m certainly not doubting the wisdom of topping up the MD grease via the filler plug Andy, for whatever reason you believe it’s for, it’s got to be a good idea. I do mine periodically as some is lost over time as it gradually creeps past the wiper seals, keeping water out at the same time Im thinking.
 
With the greatest of respect Mike I think you are wrong.
From the 80 series factory handbook:-
View attachment 147630

Firstly it refers to the items requiring lubrication as "the steering knuckles" and secondly the recommended lubricant is the same stuff they recommend to lubricate the U/J's on the next page, now even I know you only use the CV grease for CV joints and Lithium based NLGI No2 grease for bearings.
One thing to bear in mind is what happens to the grease when it goes through the hole, it rests on the outside of the CV joint exactly in line where the swivel bearings sit when the CV spins therefore a ring of NLGI no2 grease is created around the inside of the steering knuckle within the axle case where some of it lubricates the swivel bearings.
The position of where the grease enters and lands on the outside of the CV makes it impossible for the grease (of any kind ) to enter the CV where it is needed, thus my question about the location of the lubrication point.
The practical side of applying this recommended procedure is that (as I have said many times before) is that on my 1st Cruiser which was 2 years old when I bought it I fitted grease nipples to the plugs and greased the swivel housings every time I greased the props ( every 4500 miles). Before I sold it I removed the front wheels and split the track rod joints to see how it had worked over 16 years and 100K miles. the result was that they were perfect like they left the factory, no notches, barreling or grenading as it is called just smooth and no wear.
This is just as I see it Mike, the first thing I did when I got my first Cruiser was to read the handbook and I thought the bit about lubing the swivels was relevant as the Chevy's I'd had before all had greasable steering components and even on the most modern HGV's the only nipples on them are on the kingpins.
No worries mate, the forums all about debate and discussion.

When everything is in order a clear "tide mark" can be seen on the cannon ball, gives a good indication of the amount of moly in there.
 
Strictly speaking the lithium based grease is the right one for the king pin tapered rollers. However when the CVJ spins it must soak the king pins in CVJ grease. When I built mine up I just used CVJ for the whole job. 1.5 tubs in each side and half the recommended preload on the king pins as my originals were so rutted the steering was distinctly biased to the dead ahead position. Wrong approach may be but no problems so far.

I'm glad someone else realizes that greasing the prop joints every 4500 miles is important.
 
I am thinking a terminology error in the FSM? IIRC the spec is for Lithium for the swivels? Why spec that and then attempt to splash lube them with Moly?

I also think this is why there are not grease nipples on the swivels, otherwise pumping in fresh grease would then push old Lithium into the housings with Moly.

When hot the Moly in the CV's and knuckle housings is quite fluid, and there is exchange between the grease in the CV's and the grease in the housings. I have proved that with different colour Moly grease (even found a purple version), but is not a complete exchange, some purple was left at the bottom of the bell.

The Moly grease is for the CV's, if you used the Moly in the swivels it may get warm enough to simply run out of the upper swivel bearing but will not be thrown back in through the small opening between the bearing rollers and track. Lithium is more stable at higher temperatures, hence it's use in wheel bearings.

Take a CV gaiter off a typical FWD car and the moly just runs out after a few thousand miles, remove the wheel bearing from the same car and the Lithium still has some 'body' in it and in no way fluid like.

The 'rifle' drilling down the centre of the CV's is a great idea and been used in the states for a number of years, the jury is still out whether it weakens them or not? I like the idea of a couple of pumps of fresh grease going right where it's needed.

Having said that I still have an OE CV in mine with over 260,000 miles on it, keep the hubs 3/4 full and they really do take some punishment, and a Milners replacement from around 7 years ago and I guess 80,000 miles, just starting to protest, unsure what the Milners quality is like nowadays, but good value for money back then.

Regards

Dave
 
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I am fairly sure Terrain Tamer offer greasable CV joints.

- abalibe in the U.K.
- a quality product from a well known brand
- so far from using the Terrain Tamer cv’s there’s been no breakages.
 
As I am looking to replace my CV's I looked at Milners, price is peanuts compared to Toyota, looked on Terrain Tamer site, no mention of greaseable CV's and even worse no prices.....I bloody hate that!

Regards

Dave
 
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