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my beloved lj70

Everyone who fits Ironman suspension to 70's seems to have problems with it sagging. :icon-rolleyes:

I'm very happy with my Dobinsons suspension and would definitely recommend it. :clap:
 
So after looking at bens thread started thinking about rear disc brake conversion but limited really as I've done away with hand brake now as never worked properly but now I have to manually adjust the rear shoes, and to be honest it's doing my head right in. So has any body else got any ideas of calipers to use on the rear to delete the hubs I'm running?? As I can't get Subaru l series calipers... Hope some one has some light to this idea :)
 
AFAIK theres a lot more cars around with the handbrake mechanism on the caliper which have un-vented discs than for vented.

The Nissan 200SX ones I bought would have worked really well, if they would have worked with vented discs. I actually found that finding un-vented discs (much thinner than vented) that would fit over the 70 series hubs was my biggest problem.

An option is to use Suzuki Vitara un-vented front discs as one of the other guys who commented on my thread did. Only issue is you will have to drill some new holes for the wheel studs as Suzuki's have 5 wheel studs. :think:
 
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Ok then that's a good point Ben thanks
also I spoke to my local parts supplier and they list rear discs and pads for my truck would it be easier to purchase them and work with them instead... Maybe lj78 rear calipers? Or lj70 rear calipers??
 
Hmm maybe I could have one brake pipe running to front calipers, do away with the fail safe brake pipe to the rear so that leaves me with just the one pipe going to the rear, then might put in a hydrolic rally handbrake in line to lock the ear calipers up then that way I could possibly just use toyota prado rear calipers as I won't need the hand brake mechanism on them
what are your thoughts to that idea?
 
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I've got a feeling that would fail MOT not having a cable operated handbrake at the wheels.
 
No apparently it's not I've asked the question so I'm looking at puting one in asking as it locks the rear wheels should be ok
 
The line lockers I've seen are 12 volt and draw quite a bit of current, so if left on for too long they will drain the battery.

They do work well though, you push the brake peddle down and then flick a switch which activates a solenoid in the brake line which locks the brake on. :icon-biggrin:
 
I'm not looking at an electric one I mean one that goes on brake line (hydrolic) with master cylinder like this one I've just brought... 252000421557
 
Is this temp reading ok or too cold ??
 

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It's been like this eve since I put engine in it's had new radiator and heater matrix too does rise alittle but then the stat opens and I suppose that's why it goes back down ...
 
The 90 series temp gauge is known to be woefully inaccurate as it has a blind spot between normal running temp and overheating about the size of the grand canyon so the needle hits the red your coolant is already boiling . I don't know if the Surf suffered in the same way but it seem's likely if its the same engine . You now have a Surf sender telling a 70 series gauge the same lies . I would suggest you ignore what it says and get yourself an aftermarket temperature gauge and hook it up to the rad hose to get a true look at your running temps .
 
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Ok then I'll have to get one ordered then do you no the safe temps to run at??
Thanks shayne
 
Your stat is set to open at a perfect world max heat so if you get say 10 degrees over that your running into the danger zone .

I doubt you have a problem i'm just saying your gauge cannot be trusted .
 
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Yea I know what u mean mate and yea I'll have to get one of them plumbed in then
does it have to be on the block or just any pipe?? Heat rises maybe highest hose??
 
Yeah top rad hose is what everyone says , i haven't fitted mine yet because i can't decide where to put the gauge . Search ebay for a coolant hose adapter for easy fitting .
 
It should get hotter than that Craig, certainly mine does. My standard gauge sits at the half way point when the engine gets to about 40 degrees all the way up to 90 by which point its over heating.

I dont believe in fitting aftermarket sensors inside the cooling system (top rad hose) because if a hose bursts or the rad gets a stick through it etc. and you loose all your coolant you wont get an accurate reading that your over heating.

My sensor is attached to one of the bolts going down into the head of the engine, so I'm actually measuring engine temp rather than coolant temp.

This is the temp gauge I and a few others on here have fitted.

Don't be put off by the cheap price, had mine fitted for years and works great! It also fits really nicely in the 70 series dash to the left of the steering wheel. :thumbup:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-T...hash=item19f4454b05:m:mgtEgv8KkBfy-a-QnyVY6Ng
 
Thanks Ben and yea nice find on the temp gauge I didn't no if it was running that cool due to new matrix and rad maybe?? It has gone to half way before but I took all grill off and pressure washed rad to get all the mud out then it wAs back to just above cold again lol
 
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