my oem sub tank install

[chapel gate]

just a few pics, not a complete write up.

after wanting this for a good few years and never thinking it would happen, well it has, and im very pleased with the set up. been running round on the sub all last week. when the button is pressed the switch over is seamless, no hesitation or cough whatsoever.

the gauge was erratic at first and i questioned my wiring, but that has now settled down and works fine. probable being stuck in an oz shed for 16 years didnt help the sender.

there is quite a bit of piping to make neat, im not 100% happy with some of mine and will try and tidy some of it up at a later date.

the tank is a miniture of the main, baffled and reinforced with the same plastic surround that the pick up pipe sits in to suck the dregs of fuel up. theres also a one way flap on the inside of the filling pipe that comes off the side of the tank.

gauge shows a quarter left, odo reads 175 miles, anything over 200 miles for me would be a bonus.

[/URL][/IMG]

[/URL][/IMG]
bottom of duel filler neck

[/URL][/IMG]
flow and return solenoids on factory bracket

[/URL][/IMG]

[/URL][/IMG]

[/URL][/IMG]
pull to fill sub!

[/URL][/IMG]
the magic button, when pressed and running on the sub it lights up green

[/URL][/IMG]

 

[Chris]

Well whaddya know. I put mine in today too. Been waiting for an opportunity. I had to make a bracket for the solenoids though, looks like you have the whole set up. Not quite done as it started tipping it down. Got the wiring to do tomorrow but on the bench it all clicks like it should. Can't fit the roof mounted console though as I have an aftermarket sunroof which won't fit with the OEM parts. Shame.

It's all a bit of a faff to fit, I thought but it needed doing. My OEM filler had a hole in it and I kept leaving puddles at Tesco. I am going with a console mounted tank gauge which has a permanent read out rather than a switched one as I had first planned.

Hey, how did you heat your mirrors?

 

[Dave2000]

Brilliant, been thinking about it and was recently advised I can keep my spare where it is, so I get a gauge unit for the roof and then what do you know a sub tank appears on eBay current bid 200 quid, I will pop back later to look at that and forgot it went for 205 GB pounds.

Now looking for another, great job,

regards

Dave

 

[Dave2000]

The heated folding mirrors IIRC are Jap imports?

regards

Dave

 

[Dave2000]

Sorry for the quick thread jack, Chris my fuel pipe was leaking here if it help?

http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/my-lc-80-thread.365673/page-3 POST 57

Hijack off...sorry.

regards

Dave

 

[Chris]

Mine was leaking out the hole that was in it Dave. It's not anymore.

Ta

 

[chapel gate]

I retro fitted a pair of JDM electric folding mirrors. I also fitted heated pads behind the glass that come on and off with the rear defrost. the pads could be fitted to the uk mirrors. I love heated mirrors and they work REALLY well..

on 230 miles now and running on fumes!

 

[warrenpfo]

Brilliant, been thinking about it and was recently advised I can keep my spare where it is, so I get a gauge unit for the roof and then what do you know a sub tank appears on eBay current bid 200 quid, I will pop back later to look at that and forgot it went for 205 GB pounds.

Now looking for another, great job,

regards

Dave

Sorry Dave...never knew anyone else was interested in it so its now mine.

A good price considering its delivered.

I will probably just gravity feed mine and retain the single filler if i can but who knows, lots to learn.

 

[Chris]

Warren, nooooo. Come one man up. We demand better from you.

Actually I think that if you did want to keep it really simple you would need the double filler neck, but then just fit a transfer pump so that you could move fuel over on the move instead of stopping to refuel. You'd need a pump that could be run dry because you'd never really know when the sub was empty. But it's a possible route. It cuts down on quite a but of stuff. I think that if you wanted to couple the tanks with a hose big enough to fill at the garage, you'd end up with a world of work on that tank. The dual filler neck itself is easy. The plumbing for the full system isn't rocket salad, but it's lot of plumbing and expense. I haven't totted my spend up, but it's pretty stupid. I bought a 10m roll of 12mm and the same of 6mm hose, Jubileee clips, the filler, two solenoids, a Walbro pump, sub tank switch, weatherproof connectors - well you get the idea. But you see I am outrageously rich and have nothing else to spend my wealth on. Sorry, I meant to say, I cant resist a gadget regardless of the disproportionate cost.

 

[chapel gate]

246 miles and running on I don't know what...

I have all of the pics of the heated mirror job and have been meaning to do a bit of a write up but havnt had time. will do soon

 

[chapel gate]

255 miles and first stutter! called that empty and switched over to the main.

how did you get on with yours today chris?

 

[Chris]

All a bit slow CG. Working on the ground is killing my knees now and lying in yesterday's rain isn't nice. Tank is in. Filler neck and brackets in. All plumbing in. Solenoids and pusher pump all in. Switch all wired in just need to send the feed to the change over contacts and power to the pump. Did manage to fit the front Optima Yellow Top whilst having a cuppa.

Got some leaks in the solenoid area but not a major technological hurdle.

Like I say, all just very slow this weekend. Keep getting interupted. Tomorrow should see it all sorted and then I'll post it up on my build thread. Ended up ONE jubilee clip short so had to go to Halfwits. Would like to get the hot water system plumbed tomorrow. We'll see.

 

[chapel gate]

good man, look forward to seeing the pics.

 

[asutherland]

Hi all,

First off thanks a lot for the pics. You wouldn't believe how hard it is to find information on the oem diesel sub tank over here in Canada!

This is my first post here, but I'm a regular on Ih8mud. I live in BC, Canada, and own a Japanese imported 93 hdj81 (diesel). I'm currently attempting a sub tank installation. I believe the tank and filler neck came from a Hdj80. A lot of guys in the States have done a sub tank but most have used a small 12v pump to send the sub tank contents to the main tank when the dash button is pressed. Most of them have petro though not diesel.

My intent is to use the original setup of the diesel sub tank which according to my study of the fsm is basically two 3-way fuel solenoids that control flow to and from the sub tank/main tank when you press the dash switxh.

All I currently have is the tank itself, and the dual filler neck. So I'm looking for any info on the solenoids, and any wiring or hose routing tips... What else do I need? The bracket to hold the solenoids, and some generic flexible fuel hose? Does anyone have part numbers on the solenoids and bracket? I'll need the dash switxh and gauge eventually too.

Thanks in advance
Andrew

 

[Chris]

Have a look at page 28 of my build too. There are some pics of the bracketry that I made. There may be some other tips in and around that area of the build if you scroll back and forth

http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forums/showthread.php/50186-Project-80-Codename-Grey-Ghost/page28

 

[chapel gate]

the petrol version of the oem sub tank was a fuel transfer system. the transfer takes about 15 minutes. the pump is mounted in the same position as the diesel solenoids on a similar bracket, there is also a solenoid mounted to this bracket which is energised when the pump is activated, allowing the fuel to flow to the main tank, when the pump stops the solenoid shuts off to stop any fuel syphoning back. there is a small control module located on the rear filler neck side of the truck, this controls the fuel transfer. when the dash switch is pressed a signal is sent to the control module which starts the process, the transfer will only begin if the main tank is at least 3/4 empty, there is a level float sender unit in the main tank to ensure this. the sender unit in the sub tank also has a level float attached to it to switch off the pump once the sub tank is empty. if there is a fault the light will flash on the dash switch and flash codes can be read.

the diesel set up as you know has the flow and return solenoids on a bracket, this is basically one circuit for the main tank and one circuit for the sub tank. pressing the dash switch simple swops over circuits by means of the solenoids so that the injector pump draws off either the main or sub tank. the solenoids have to be constantly energised to draw off the sub tank.

this is the oem set up and you can make your own variations on this.

the sub fuel gauge overhead consoles are the same for diesel or petrol. the dash switches are different. the diesel switch is "switched" meaning once pressed it stays in and sends constant power to the solenoids for as long as it receives power(switch off the engine, switch loses power, solenoids de- energise). the petrol switch is "momentary" once pressed it sends a signal to the control module to start the transfer. the switch doesn't stay pressed in.

the sub tanks are the same but the diesel will have two pipes on the fuel pick up pipe for flow and return, the petrol one. the petrol sender unit has the level sender float, this will work as a sender unit for the diesel.

the straps are hinged and marked left and right looking from the back of the vehicle.

the duel filler necks are the same but the petrol has the restrictor In the filler neck. there are two types of filler neck, the newer ones are slimmer than the older ones. some of the very old filler necks come with a metal twist cap and wont work with your plastic cap.

most of the wiring is part of much bigger looms, the overhead console for example is the entire roof loom. so imo you are better off making up your own. the only original piece of loom I used was the solenoid loom which is part of the main fuel tank loom and easy to replace.

all of the parts are still available from Toyota although ive heard a rumour the tank isn't anymore

this is one of the best things I have done on my cruiser and use it a lot, not just long trips.

 

[hopeless wanderer]

Cheers for posting this it's gonna most helpful ...eventually

 

[JOHN OF LONDON]

A quick revival!
I'm trying to install a factory SUB tank and would really appreciate a picture of an OEM installation to copy.; particularly the pipe work, the solenoids and their brackets. This thread looks as though it once had pictures from Chapel Gate but these are not downloading. Are they still available, please.