my story; removing the cylinder head 80 series 1HD-T

[StarCruiser]

Lookin' good Lockie. Progress!

 

[Michael Montgomery]

A nice reminder when I rebuilt mine great to see always.....well done

 

[lockie]

Got the bottom end all back together as well as my new exhaust fitted.

But I have come to realise that my new head gasket is bigger then my old one, by about 1.15mm.
I figure I can't go smaller but will bigger hurt??

 

[StarCruiser]

How do you mean bigger Lockie? If you mean thicker, don't forget your old one has had some serious pressure crushing it and your new one hasn't yet. Others may know better but my guess is it's a before and after crush measurement.

 

[lockie]

Thicker is what I meant. Thanks star cruiser.
I'll ask around some more today and see what I can find out

 

[chapel gate]

Update.... unfortunatly today when I was cleaning I found that there is quite a bit of play in the turbine... so... guess I'll be replacing that.

Oh well.. shit happens. But any Australians on here heard or used Munro racing turbos? They do a upgrade/rebuild for exchange for the ct26.. for about $800
Looks the goods and by far the cheapest option I've found so far

The turbine does have a fair bit of play in it, oil lubricates the journal bearing taking up the play.

Obviously there cant be excessive play,but theres more there than you think.

 

[frank rabbets]

It's very important to use the right thickness head gasket. I would think you are not using a Genuine one ? If so I would buy a Toyota one. 1.15 mm thicker is huge. The old one does not compress.

 

[frank rabbets]

Gasket should be 0.85 MIN-1.15 mm MAX thickness. That's for the 1hd-ft. for 1hd-ft engine. Used ones have not compressed and for the genuine gasket you don't need to retighten the bolts.

 

[StarCruiser]

Gasket should be 0.85 MIN-1.15 mm MAX thickness. That's for the 1hd-ft. for 1hd-ft engine. Used ones have not compressed and for the genuine gasket you don't need to retighten the bolts.

You did say this earlier Frank, I should have remembered.

 

[frank rabbets]

EDIT MY POST ABOVE

Rich I'd forgotten as well lol.!!

Looks like the gaskets might compress. I did not measure my old gasket so have nothing to go on but the old gasket and workshop manual. My old one measures 0.53 mm. However it might be important where on the gasket the measurement is taken as with a new gasket the fire rings just by the bores may be slightly raised (thicker) so they seal well. I assume the workshop manual .85-1.15 refers to the main body of the gasket. Another point is this only refers to 1hd-ft engines.

 

[lockie]

So, I found this (see attached pic)
And after reading the workshop manual, I got my hands on a dial gauge.
And after measuring piston protrusion, I've discovered I'll need a 3 notch/size .
My old gasket was a 2 notch/size
The New one is 1 notch/size.
So I'm glad I checked but it was a Slight pain in the arse, because of the back and fourth of mailing gaskets.

 

[frank rabbets]

Glad to see you're reading the workshop manual. You'll be knackered when you've done all those bolts up, I was . If your chaps have done a good job on the head you'll be amazed how smoothly it'll run. Pump timing's good fun.

 

[lockie]

Ha yeah not looking forward to doing the cam and head bolts... my shoulders and neck were sore enough after doing everything on the bottom half up!!

Re frank
I'm so freaking keen to drive it... looking forward to feeling the difference!
Any hot tips on the pump timing?

 

[StarCruiser]

Glad it wasn't just me Lockie, I remember that ache after doing my BEBs! You've made me feel much better after reading that post.

 

[frank rabbets]

Lockie those bolts were a killer. There's millions and they are tight and you have to make all those passes. That said that was for hd-ft engine.

I assume pump timing procedure is same for your engine as mine. You'll need a dial gauge lol. Best to check after engine has run as drive wheels may have settled in a bit. Post if you think you need the special Toyota tool/see saw. There's a way round that.

I never had a disaster on starting a rebuilt one but there's so much time and effort gone in to them it's a dry mouth time on the first key.

Keep posting=magic. I used to live for these days but it's all over now. So much reliability.

 

[lockie]

By the sounds you've done this a couple of times?
Tell me, how long did you drive it under load for, to seat the rings??

Hahaha "dry mouth time" too right!! I get nervous just thinking about it

 

[frank rabbets]

Not under load to start with. Just free revving varying the rpm up and down the gearbox for the first 10 miles then gradually increasing load for next 500 miles when it should be done.

It may be a bit rough for the for the first few seconds on first start because the shortest pipe to the injectors will get fuel first and it won't fire on all cylinders straight away.

I shouldn't let it idle too long as you need a good stream of air through the radiator as lots of heat will be generated in the water jacket due initial friction. I should keep an eye on the water temperature gauge and stop the engine to cool if necessary. You shouldn't have a problem if you've got a genuine radiator so you need to be careful if you're not sure. Careful anyway.

The pistons may have come with breaking/running in instructions.

I've never replaced the pistons on a Landcruser engine but plenty of other big car engines up to 4.2 petrol with cast iron blocks.

Used to have to have a friend with a fire extinguisher on some of the high performance petrol engines with Webber carbs. If the engine did not fire because you pumped the throttle too much petrol used to rune down to the ground through a drain pipe from the air box. Double Fear lol.

 

[lockie]

Quick questions for everyone...
due to not getting a reply about the swapping of my current gasket (and me being impatient I guess)
I'm going to buy another one and post it express... but the question is..
Is it necessary to spend $180 on the big name gasket or should I go the $90 option?
Cheaper option still comes with a 100000km/3 year warranty...

 

[StarCruiser]

I think earlier in the thread it was mentioned to only go genuine Toyota on the head gasket. So what if they give you another gasket if it fails, big deal. They're not going to come and take everything apart, skim the head and fit it for you. It's essential you get the best you can with parts like this. Or you could be doing the job all over again and cursing your decision.

I get impatient to get projects finished and regret it later.
Do it once and do it right. That way is the cheapest way.

 

[frank rabbets]

We've all been there tempted by a lower price but I do think to use a Toyota gasket. Even if the gasket came from the same factory that makes genuine Toyota ones they may be different spec. As Rich says when you've done those head bolts up you'll be relieved your not taking it off again.