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my story; removing the cylinder head 80 series 1HD-T

Soo.... another question for everyone.
Bit of back story first.
When I first took everything apart, I lined it up at TDC.
Now when I've gone to put it together I had it lined up at TDC again.
I've put the back of the timing plate on and put the pulley head? (Or gear maybe) back on the cam and started reading the manual and it says to do it at BDC.
My question is... will it stil be ok to go on with it lined up at TDC or should I take the cam off and start again at BDC?

And something for everyone to have a laugh about... the 1/4" 12mm socket with small extension popped off the torque wrench and fell down a oil hole all the way to the sump.. needless to say I was pretty happy about that and had a lot of fun getting it out...
 
As long as you are completely definitely sure that you are assembling the same as you took apart you should be OK but the fuel pump timing should also be as you took it apart.

HOWEVER there is a chance in fiddling with the valves and camshaft you might bend a valve slightly. That's why assembly should be with the 2 pistons involved on BDC. Just to be sure I would FIRST carefully remove the camshaft, reposition the crank and assemble in accordance with the manual. You'll also have to follow the manual in regards to the fuel pump.

When all is done in accordance with the manual you could turn the engine over and your original marks should realign.
 
Nearly there!
Waiting for injecter washers and o-rings...

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Looking good Lockie. You're making fine progress. Don't be tempted to rush the final stages like I would just 'cos you want to jump in and drive it. Inlet manifold to block seals are worth checking/replacing as they can leak after a while. And I put a smear of RTV sealant round the short turbo to inlet pipe hose where it meets turbo and inlet pipe. Stops all that gunk forming around it.
 
Quick question, I'm replacing some hose, as it's all stretched and out of shape so couldn't get a decent measurement on it (and I think I've lost it somewhere)
But the turbo pipe is 53.5mm (outside edge)
My question is, should I get 51mm hose and stretch it abit or get 54mm hose and let the hose clamp do the work?
 
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Either really Lockie, one will fall on and the other will be a smidge on the tight side. For me, I'd try the tight one. If it's not much money and you're only buying the short section then get both and report back. The larger one would probably be fine and the clamps are pretty darn good (especially the way they lock open on a plastic catch, very neat).
 
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Anyone know the size of the bolts for the exhaust heat shield? I forgot to bring them to work with me...
 
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Well what a weekend that was!
First up, I didn't realise how important the little injector line clamps are... taking them off with the inlet manifold I knew it was going to be a struggle getting them back on.
But holy shieeeet! I spent (and I'm not exaggerating) 4+ hours getting this all back together... I almost gave up....

But I got there! And eventually it all went back together, (few things went off and on and off and on...)
And to cut a long story short... I got to the point of kicking it over.
After bleeding the fuel, checking for leaks and going over everything 10 times, it started!!!
I've left it at that for the night and I'll take it for it first drive tomorrow.

Hope you all like my dodgy home made fuel line clamps.
 
Looking good Lockie. Now the anxious heart in mouth wierd sensation that something's going to fall off, go bang, stop or whatever. Thinking 'I'm sure I did that bolt up but I don't remember', until it all goes well and is fine for ever more.

Running in procedure next then you're good to go. I guess you put basic mineral oil in there to start with to allow the rings to bed in?

I'll remember to take loads of photos when I take my fuel lines off. Looks like a right puzzle to get them back.

Good luck with it.
 
Well done. Those anti vibration brackets are important. The lines can break without them. More news ?
 
Good news!! Drove it around for a while this afternoon changed the oil (went from Mineral to semi-sintetic though, hope this is ok?? If I need to change it I will)
And yes.... it was a arse/teeth clenching experience!! There was some smoke (leftover clean products and oil ex burning off) but it only lasted a very short time.
I took it up a big hill twice, with multiple checks before and after.
Now it's parked back in the driveway.(at home)
Tomorrow is a public holiday (ANZAC day)
So I'm going to give it a good clean and start to enjoy driving it again!
 
Good effort Lockie, well done - hopefully following in your footsteps soon.
 
Lockie, there is a run in procedure. I think it's on the thread I mentioned about the pistons and it is VERY important you follow it. I would say (unless your hill was 300 miles long) that you've changed the oil too soon and should change back but have a look at that thread to see. I think it was a post from @frank rabbets iirc.

Apart from this, very well done indeed. That's a big job you've accomplished and you should be very pleased with your efforts. Don't worry, changing the oil won't have done damage but the rings do need to bed into the glaze busted bores again to get a good seal.
 
My experience of "running-in" is more to avoid certain things, as opposed to "doing" things.

I'd recommend avoiding:

Long periods of running the engine at idle;
Long haul, high load, climbing;
Long periods at constant speed;
Over-revving;
Over-labouring (low revs-high throttle).

I'd recommend "doing":

Varying your speed on longer runs;
Limiting engine speed to 2,500 rpm;
Generally driving it easy, but don't be afraid of it.

The engine needs to be worked, but in a moderate way, so no extreme revving, or labouring or hard constant loading.

It's not so difficult and it is only for one or two thousand miles, probably less would be enough.

JMHO mind, I take no responsibility whatsoever for the above... :lol:
 
I can tell what decade you were born in Clive.

I'm terrible Frank, can't shake it off. I had a shock when I first came to Romania in 2001, because my job entitled me to a "car" and they presented me with a brand-new Dacia 1310 Estate ("Break" they call them here).

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Well, it was like stepping back in time about 50 years (technologically), when you started the engine (it had about 60 km on the ODO when I got it) you could hear the pistons going up and down.

That sounds stupid I know, but you could. The rings running on a new bore were making a swishing sound, and it's been a long, long time since I've heard that sound... :lol:

Machining on modern cars is so exacting these days, I don't think any new modern engine needs any running in, but this thing was so tight it made me blush :shifty:.

What a crap car. It stank of cheap rubber for some reason, not that nice "new car" smell you'd expect. the driver's door wouldn't open after unlocking and a guy came to my rescue "you have to turn the key then thump the door pillar like this" he said, thumping the door pillar with a closed fist. The door popped open and I thanked him, only to find that the damn thing wouldn't close from the inside. It kept bouncing open when I slammed it, "ah" the guy said, "it needs another thump here" he said pointing to the door trim. Sure enough, another thump and it shut. :lol:

I had it for 6 weeks before they changed it, and although I don't rate the Nissan Terrano that they gave me, it was such a relief not to have to drive that pile of junk any more.

Sorry for the thread-jack... all done.
 
Sooo good!!
Driving at varying speeds and rpms is getting a little tedious but it's all worth it!

Unfortunately my CV's are making a bit of noise so no proper 4wding for me until I have the $$$ to do that and a swivel hub rebuild.

But still... enjoy having my rig back.
Bought a new deep cycle battery and few other little bits, and now I'm enjoying camping on the weekend again!

And for anyone else reading this wondering if they should have a go at doing it.. I say if you have a good shed and a decent amount of tools and time, go for it! Very rewarding indeed!
 
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