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new Birf/CV choices - FZJ80 97

thelal

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2010
Messages
262
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ireland
Have Birfs I need to change out as clicking on turns
See several options availailble (OEM, RCV, Longfields, Milners, Hdn- Chinese?)
Anyone got practical options
Thanks
 
Been hotly debated many times.
You can't beat OEM. But they're eye wateringly expensive.
HDK? I'd rather drive a Landrover than ever touch another one of those.
Longfield doesn't exist anymore. They were bought out.
I'd consider the ones from Roughtrax.
Someone got some SKF ones I seem to remember.
And somewhere (might be the SKF) there's some grease able ones.
 
I sold another kidney, went OEM.

I wasted a lot of money on some Trail Gear CVs and shafts (I’d previously broken a shaft) but the CVs didn’t last long and they were almost OEM prices.

Every day a school day.

I’ve no experience with roughtrax
 
Do you have leaking hub seals, if so maybe the cv grease has been washed out due to diff oil contamination. Could be worth giving the OEM ones a wash out and regress ? Obviously you will need to replace the half shaft seals if this is the case

Cheers
 
That won't really stop the clicking. That's mechanical wear. What I have seen done, is reversing of the CVs. Where cash is really tight, you can swap left to right so that the wear is opposite.

With OEM CVs, having looked at a fair few, clicking shouldn't mean immanent failure. Yes they click on full lock, but they still give drive in a straight line. I wouldn't say this about an aftermarket one necessarily, but I can't recall actually having ever seen a fully failed OEM CV. Not saying it doesn't happen, but generally catastrophic failures are cheaper units.

Of course I'd change them, but I wouldn't rush to like I would if I found splits in my timing belt.

It's only a guess but I'd suggest that it's the casing that wears and the birdcage too probably rather than the ball bearings. It' a shame you can't get them rebuilt.

I know Toyota is a massive empire and has to pay its shareholders, but the OEM ones are very expensive indeed even at the sorts of discounts offered by Karl and CG. But you have to question even if you could get an OEM for £300, what does that say about a cheap one at £60?
 
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I would consider terrain tamer ones if the budget wasn’t stretching to OEM replacements. About £160 a side I believe.
 
There is a good you tube video on doing this.
 
not in any rush ; just more interested in the choices and for those that have tried differing manfs
Would consider swapping but if going to that level of effort might as well replace
thanks for input
 
Pretty good vid although ..

First thing is not to take the nuts off the cone washers. Saves you retrieving the washers from the other side of the workshop. Never seen outer flange come off that easy! Where's all the rust?

20.00 Take the ABS sensor out!! Hah, there you go fella. But put some gloves on dude.
That joint really is toast.
27.00 always remember to put something soft on the floor to catch the half shaft as it shoots out.
That looks like red rubber grease. Strange. But he really should have packed that full. It needs more than a light greasing.
Put a tie wrap or jubillee clip around the snap ring to compress it on reassembly.
Do not tighten the nut with a frickin' chisel. Noooooooo! Jeez he was doing so well.
Please set the rotational torque on the hub properly.
 
No not SKF then. Who was it?
 
http://gearingdynamics.com.au/Greaseable-CV-Joint-for-Toyota-Landcruiser Those available from Millers and RoughTrax don’t appear to be greaseable either.[/QUOTE said:
Not seen greasable CVs before ; anyone running with them and "worthwhile" long term?
 
Genuine for me, as already said above speak to Karl. Don't forget some genuine seals too.
 

I don’t have the greaseable CV’s but would say they are probably of more use if you do a lot of mud plugging. Opinions differ on wether grease applied through the filling plug on top of the knuckle actually gets to the bearing cage where it’s most needed but this is obviously not the case with the CV’s with the grease nipple.
 
I think that topping up is of course beneficial as it will get flung around inside and keep things fresh, but there's more chance of me shagging that set of red-haired twins on a yacht in the Caribbean than even so much as a teaspoon of that grease finding its way inside the joint itself. Look how hard it it to get it to go in on the bench!
 
I fitted the SKF ones, quality looks good.
They are in for half a year now, +- 8000 km I guess, with every month one or more offroad trips, nothing very heavy tough. I have 35s on my 80 and so far so good...
Another option to bear in mind is Spidan / Lobro / GKN, this is a OEM brand that are used by many car manufacturers.
 
017
I don’t have the greaseable CV’s but would say they are probably of more use if you do a lot of mud plugging. Opinions differ on wether grease applied through the filling plug on top of the knuckle actually gets to the bearing cage where it’s most needed but this is obviously not the case with the CV’s with the grease nipple.

I did wonder if you could use the 1 shot stuff you get from a land rover. That is a lighter weight only grease that would give you a oil bath effect in the hub
 
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