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No ignition fault

Dave S

New Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2017
Messages
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uk
Hi guys

I'm working on what think is a 2007 105 up armoured cruiser. It was delivered to me with symptoms of not doing anything when they key was turned. Since then on have changed the batteries, bench tested the starter. Tested every fuse and relay I can find but have found no fault.

I have managed to get some things now working when the key is turned - odo, key warning buzzer, fuel gauge and battery charge gauge. But still no warning lights or cranking. When i try tonxrank the lights on the radio dim a bit.

Also when i connect power from the batteries the hazards flash

Any help would be much appreciated. I've been pulling my hair out over this for a week now
 
Do you get 12v at the solenoid start connection?
Does the solenoid operate?
Check across any fusible links that connect to the battery for continuity.
There have been cases of fuse connections in the under bonnet fusebox (on the 80 series) getting corroded or burned, quite rare but worth checking. You could get someone to hold the key in the start position and wiggle fuses/relays and see if you get anything.
If the solenoid operates then the internal contacts can burn away (on the 80 series).

What did you need to do to get the lights up and progress to where you are now?
 
Sounds like immobilser problem, no other reason the hazards flash on battery connection.
 
Being armoured i wonder if the ignition switch is separate from the lock barrel , lost keys in a war zone !

Hummer H2 had this , a carry over from its vague military origins maybe ?
 
So when I short across the start relay then connect the battery the syatyedr turns
 
Had similar on my GS, had clicking or no clicking when attempting to start. Imob (aftermarket) would beep and flash. In my case it was the 24V voltage converter relay, had been working fine and packed in with no warning.

IMG_1609.JPG IMG_1610.JPG
 
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Slightly back and lower from the passenger battery is a black cover with one Phillips screw in it. It's underneath the cover. Easy to check with a multimeter.
 
I dont think this is anything like thw standard one.. I have an air filter just behind the aux battery
20170319_164558.jpg
 
Thanks all.

I appreciate the input.

I've managed to hot wire it into running fine.. It's now going to Toyota in the morning for and ignition barrel
 
Probably worth taking the ignition switch apart if you've proved that's the problem. A new barrel means different keys to the door keys and I don't suppose it'll be cheap.
 
Last edited:
Probably worth taking the ignition switch apart if you've proved that's the problem. A new barrel means different keys to the doors and I don't suppose it'll be cheap.


It looks like a massive pain in the ass to get it out and take it apart?
 
Not done it myself. As long as you've proved it is what is at fault then the bill from Toyota will be a worthwhile sting if you don't relish the job. Might be worth getting a quote first which may make that massive pain look small by comparison.
 
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