Noise after new clutch fit....

[Towpack]

The clutch is an Aisin heavy duty from RoughTrax. Aisin make OEM Toyota clutches don’t they?

I didn’t use an instal tool on the pressure plate, just centred the friction plate with an alignment tool, located the pressure plate on the dowels and torqued the bolts in rotation as per the fsm. In fact I just followed the FSM box removal procedure to the letter, remove this then remove that etc but no mention of that pesky starter stud.

I’ll be doing a few of the checks suggested before proceeding further. Oil drop, slave cylinder fit and clutch arm play.

I was really peed off yesterday and couldn’t bear looking at the thing but, one thing I have decided having slept (badly) on the problem is that I want it fixing, even if it means sourcing another box. Leaving for work this morning and seeing it sat on the drive I just thought I can’t let it go like this especially as it’s my own doing.

Spoke to MT transmissions in Sheffield today who sell recon boxes but not for LC’s, as I expected really but they can fix mine, albeit with parts they will have to source from a Toyota dealer.

 

[clivehorridge]

I've been thinking about this today whilst working.

There's a snap ring that goes around the outside of the input shaft bearing to prevent the possible push on the input. So that would prevent what I was talking about last night.

I have a feeling that the thrust bearing clips have come off the clutch fork and is rotating hence the sound goes away when pressure is applied on the clutch pedal because you say the gearbox is working fine. To check with the engine running and grab hold of the clutch fork to see if you can feel the noise.

A hunch so a look through the slot that the clutch fork comes out.. I checked mine after struggling to fit the engine and box by myself. I used my mobile phone with the torch on and videoed it.. I could see that the thrust bearing was clipped on ok! Another way to check.

Interested in getting to the bottom of this!

Your suggestion above Iwan is the most likely scenario IMO.

The release bearing not fixed to the fork properly will be chattering around but will be (badly) retained in position by the shaft. When the clutch is depressed (no pun on TP’s present mood intended) the clutch will operate as Mr T intended and the chattering will stop under the load.

The horrible rattling on switch-off also indicates something not attached properly or at all, and the fork and bearing are the only parts that aren’t bolted down.

My money is on this one (and TP’s no doubt).

Anyway, 11/10 for attitude TP, that’s the spirit mate

 

[Iwan]

This will make you laugh!

Who said that you can't damage an input shaft! !! Lol
The spiggot bearing was wedged on it and it took some serious force to get the r151f box off the engine!
Animal mode... chained the gearbox to a steel girder post in the workshop and attached the 2kd engine to the teleporter on 1/2 boom and bang! Only wanted the bell housing and clutch fork! Lol!

The spiggot bearing was still intact!

Welsh hillside mechanic on last resort!

 

[clivehorridge]

This will make you laugh!
View attachment 143619
Who said that you can't damage an input shaft! !! Lol
The spiggot bearing was wedged on it and it took some serious force to get the r151f box off the engine!
Animal mode... chained the gearbox to a steel girder post in the workshop and attached the 2kd engine to the teleporter on 1/2 boom and bang! Only wanted the bell housing and clutch fork! Lol!

The spiggot bearing was still intact!

Welsh hillside mechanic on last resort!

Jeez, close your eyes TP... you’ll have nightmares

 

[Chris]

Hmm, wonder if they'd take a look at my Amazon box to just check it through before I take the plunge and put it in the 80. I might have to take a run over there TP. They could have my current box and sort the 2nd gear downshift maybe.

 

[frank rabbets]

Just had another listen to the video. It doesn't sound muffled enough to be inside the gearbox. you can clearly hear ringing metal in air pointing to something loose in the bell housing. Also if that amount of noise is in the box it would not drive at all.

 

[Dave2000]

The clutch is an Aisin heavy duty from RoughTrax. Aisin make OEM Toyota clutches don’t they?

That is what I used, as per my earlier post, it gave a mid way bite which feels right to use.

Regards

Dave

 

[Towpack]

Welsh hillside mechanic on last resort!

You free next Saturday Iwan?

 

[Iwan]

You free next Saturday Iwan?

Ohh it's my girlfriends birthday on Saturday!! Be a fate worse than death!!! Sunday any good? Lol!!

 

[Chris]

I'm free if you seriously need a hand TP

 

[Towpack]

Thanks for the offer Chris. I’m taking it over to MT on Sat to get there opinion.
I’m thinking, if they take the box out they can fix it wether it’s clutch or box. If I drop the box again and it is the box itself I’d have to get it to them anyway, fetch it back and refit it. If it does require parts they almost certainly won’t be sat on a local dealers shelf so there could be delays. Hopefully it will be something relatively simple like the release or pilot bearings. Having them do it will cost but covers all possibilities.

 

[StarCruiser]

You free next Saturday Iwan?

Is that with or without teleporter TP?

Seriously, Iwan may have hit this nail on the head, a displaced release bearing could also explain the low bite point could it not?
At least you should be able to see it through where the rubber sits around the clutch arm.

 

[frank rabbets]

Release bearing is a tube shape sliding over a tube which is part of the gearbox so difficult to see how it can come off the tube. HOWEVER what might have happened is the bearing has turned round and off the release fork ends so the fork ends are now acting on the body of the bearing which is at a different level. This would explain all the symptoms apart perhaps for the loudness of the noise.

 

[Iwan]

I was thinking that as the gearbox was being fitted the fork could possibly been caught on the body and the fork moved as if the pedal was depressed. Then as it did that possibly the bearing went off the tube then loosened one of the bearing clips. Hence ok for 15 miles. The clips are good when fully assembled but before fitted they're not so good or strong.. speculation? ?

 

[frank rabbets]

I think that could well have happened iwan. It's a real struggle with the starter stud in the way and the clip/s holding the bearing on aren't up to it really.

 

[Iwan]

Indeed also the clutch fork is quite close to the body when in situ!

 

[frank rabbets]

The second time I changed my box I managed it on my back on the garage floor. I don't know what happened but it just popped in with hardly any struggle and went straight up to the engine face in one go.

 

[StarCruiser]

The second time I changed my box I managed it on my back on the garage floor. I don't know what happened but it just popped in with hardly any struggle and went straight up to the engine face in one go.

That’s exactly how my Shogun gearbox went on… only it was after almost giving up after 30 minutes of fighting with and swearing at it. One last try and clonk on it went, easy as kiss your hand.

 

[clivehorridge]

It’s a common scenario, I couldn’t count the number of boxes that have done that to me in my earlier days spannerin’.

IIRC, the worst was a Triumph 2.5 pi with a lump of an auto overdrive unit on the back of it, Jeez it was heavy and I only had the car on Halfords ramps in the open on muddy grass in the rain.

I was pushing hard and slithering in the opposite direction all Saturday afternoon, must have been several hours of wiggling, pushing, cussing and eventually giving up as it went dark.

After a slap-up Sunday breakfast, it almost pulled itself onto the engine, so easy I couldn’t believe it.

The best alignment tools I had were a selection of various scrap box primary shafts, and generally they worked well, if I could find one close the the car I was working on.

The other heaviest box I’ve wrestled with was an old Vauxhall VX 490, what a lump of a thing that was...

Good old days, eh?

 

[Dave2000]

There used to be a Vauxhall that to get to the clutch, the gearbox had to removed from the bellhousing whilst in situ by releasing it from the 4 bolts holding it to the housing from inside. You accessed the bolts through two small holes in the 'half' bellhousing. I could not afford the correct tools so made them up.

The gearbox mating flange made up a large percentage of the bellhousing, once the gearbox was out, clutch changed. Then get the box back in and start working through the access holes to bolt it back up.

I had to tie string onto my home made spanners, then they were easily retrievable when they were dropped.....many times, an absolute bastard of a job!

I am sure that was a VX of some sort or other? At the opposite end of clutch changing difficulty again by Vauxhall, was the FWD (Cavalier ect) versions where you did NOT remove the gearbox to fit the clutch, perhaps 20 minutes?

Bliss.

Regards

Dave