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Noise after new clutch fit....

Towpack

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Oct 4, 2011
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This is the problem thats cropped up after fitting a new clutch. The noise started after around 15 miles or so. Drove off from the garage perfect. It drives fine, the bite point now being right at the bottom of the pedal compared to right at the top with the old slipping clutch. Dip the clutch and the noise goes and as can be seen in the vid, the transfer position has no effect on the noise. The noise at the end when the engine is stopped with the clutch out sounds horrible! Switching off with the clutch pressed = no noise. The vids from an old iPhone so quality isn't great I'm afraid. Any ideas guys?

 
Im afraid you'll have to remove the gearbox again and you will find out pretty fast what is wrong with it...
 
Iirc another forum member had this problem, i think it was a faulty thrust bearing. I THINK it was @Knucklehead.
i may be completely wrong..
or was it @Bat21..
As you can tell, i dont know what im talking about..
 
It's not the wobbly input shaft noise. What a bu**er. Best not to run it again. It's bad that you changed the clutch with all good intentions with a struggle to refit and it's resulted with this problem. So sorry to see!
 
Input shaft is grating on the countershaft below.. maybe?
 
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Apart from the noise it drives fine with good changes and clutch feel. Just hope it doesn’t go bang.
 
I had a OEM thrust bearing fail after a few days but it sounds more like bird chirping. That sounds like do not drive any further to me. If that showed up after the clutch install get them to pull that box and see whats going on.
 
Nope that's not the noise I had. I had the one that sounded like birds chirping. That is truly horrible. I don't think that is a release bearing. There's nothing in the unit that would make a noise like that.
 
I'd certainly say there's some shaft grinding against something there. A release bearing can't make that much noise surely? Mine squeaks until the clutch is pressed and that is annoying enough. I'm afraid to say not much else for it but to take the bugger back out, just like I'm going to have to do at some point!
 
20170913_173831.jpg

A pic of the same setup. Counter shaft below the very expensive part. Possible compression of the input shaft could push the bearing mounts in the plate mounted in the vise. When in neutral the input shaft is turning the counter shaft and that is a split roller bearings in two halves with plastic cage in the plate, not the strongest setup. Possibly not relevant. But a pic to show what's inside.
 
That’s what I was suspecting Iwan, some form of damage caused by too much pressure on the input shaft and, going on the other replies, the consensus seems to be box not clutch. So, where’s the best place for a recon box? Does anyone even do them for the 80 series anymore?
 
What about that place between Meadowhead and Bradway? MT Transmissions or whatever they're called?
 
I really feel for you mate and it's stressed my evening. I did my own job unexpectedly and learned as I took it on. Really not by choice but from buying a high miler and not knowing (plus wanting it to be in good condition). The most important part is to catch it before it self destructs which is the situation you are in now. Slight gear damage and retrievable. A good study of the FSM guided me through it.... and I've never been inside a gearbox before. I've done over 4k miles with mine and I did think that it would self destruct within the first 1000 miles now I'm 100% confident with my work... I really don't think that you are any different to me. I live with the theory that if someone can do it then I/You can!
 
Just had the chance to watch with the sound up. No, not a thrust bearing.. bit of a presumption there..
that does sound rough, i recall you had a struggle getting the box back on. Possible you've caused some damage in the process?
 
I really feel for you mate and it's stressed my evening. I did my own job unexpectedly and learned as I took it on. Really not by choice but from buying a high miler and not knowing (plus wanting it to be in good condition). The most important part is to catch it before it self destructs which is the situation you are in now. Slight gear damage and retrievable. A good study of the FSM guided me through it.... and I've never been inside a gearbox before. I've done over 4k miles with mine and I did think that it would self destruct within the first 1000 miles now I'm 100% confident with my work... I really don't think that you are any different to me. I live with the theory that if someone can do it then I/You can!

I’m thinking your theory of a damaged/displaced bearing is the most likely Iwan. It’s not a daily driver, only weekend use and needs must but a damaged bearing will most likely collapse at some point. The bottom line is I decided I wanted to do the clutch change myself so it’s on my head. I don’t have the facilities to remove and strip an 80 series gearbox at home. Done a few bikes but they’re tiny by comparison so my best option is to try and source a recon/good box and have it fitted.
 
What about that place between Meadowhead and Bradway? MT Transmissions or whatever they're called?

That’s a good call Chris. I was thinking of that place but couldn’t remember the name. I’ll certainly be scouring the inet for possibilities but the ultimate decision will come down to cost and how much I’m prepared to spend on it, versus getting what I can for it as is, or maybe even part it out for as much as possible, scrap the rest and put the proceeds towards a replacement but that’s worse case scenario so let’s not go there just yet.
 
Well I think the inescapable fact is that it's going to have to come out again. Did you do it on the floor or have you access to a ramp? I've done a number of these and I have to say I think you'd have to hit the input shaft pretty hard wouldn't you to cause internal damage. Sure you didn't leave a socket in there, hmm?
 
We did it on a full size ramp with hydraulic engine transmission jacks etc so the facilities couldn’t have been better but we really struggled lining the thing up and locating the bellhousing on the dowels. We took the rubber boot off the clutch arm and had a look in with an endoscope and could see the input shaft apparently lined up through the clutch plates but the damn thing just wouldn’t move. I don’t get how it drove away from the garage perfectly and the fault developed shortly afterwards but, whatever, it looks like the box is damaged in some way so, as you say, it’s got to come out so I think a replacement box will be quicker/easier and possibly cheaper than removal and a box strip to fit new parts.
 
Does the clutch have to be fully pressed for the noise to go? If increase engine speed what does it sound like, when driving is the noise the same or different?

I'm not familiar with the clutch set up in these but can the friction plate be fitted the wrong way round? Can the release bearing be fitted incorrectly?

Did the new pressure plate have anything fitted, usually round the sides to help with fitting/ hold it under tension.
Are all the clutch bolts tight?
 
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