Oil pressure at start up.

[JOHN OF LONDON]

As part of the ongoing modifications I have fitted an oil pressure warning light, amongst other things, and interlocked it so the engine will stop after 5 seconds if the oil pressure disappears.
This has revealed that it takes a bit more than 5 seconds for any measurable oil pressure to build up after the truck has sat out overnight, which can't be good for the bearings. Consequently it takes a while to start but I figure it's better being spun by the starter than running dry.
Assuming this to be a failure of the anti drain back valve in the after market oil filter I have changed the filter for a Baldwin, which I had ready for the next oil change but it hasn't made any difference. I'll buy one of Toyota's expensive OEM filters on Monday and see if that solves the problem but in the meantime does anyone know of any other potential causes for my problem.

 

[Towpack]

You're never going to get 'instant' pressure from a cold start. I used a pattern filter in the past and to did take longer for pressure to show compared to an OEM filter, typically around 5-6 secs. With the OEM it's more like 3-4, that's as shown on a capillary OP gauge mounted inside the cab. The OEM gauge in the instrument binnacle it even slower to respond.

 

[frank rabbets]

The oil stays on the surface of the bearings by capillary action with engine stopped. Enough will remain at idle for plenty of time before the pressure build up replaces it. Even with an empty new filter which takes a relatively long time to fill there is no danger of wearing the bearings.

In my opinion best to use genuine Toyota filter and oil meeting the required standard in the owners handbook.

 

[StarCruiser]

In my opinion best to use genuine Toyota filter and oil meeting the required standard in the owners handbook.

When you're looking at 2 grand plus fitting for a second hand engine, the Toyota OEM filters are cheap. I've always used genuine filters on all the cars I've serviced myself. There's a very good reason, cheap filters are cheap for a reason. There is a link on here somewhere to a video on youtoob where a guy I think in the US has cut open loads of filters and examined exactly what you get. Turns out value wise the OEM one is most filter for your money. It's an eye opener.

 

[Towpack]

Stating the obvious here but the most important thing is not to put unnecessary load on the engine by revving the nuts off it during the first few seconds as doing so will break down the film strength of the oil left on the bearing surfaces, cam lobes etc.... Plus, on a turbo engine, the turbine will be spinning up to heaven knows what speed with insufficient oil in the bearings. OEM filters for me too, bikes and cars.

 

[AndycruiserguyLomas]

Stating the obvious here but the most important thing is not to put unnecessary load on the engine by revving the nuts off it during the first few seconds as doing so will break down the film strength of the oil left on the bearing surfaces, cam lobes etc.... Plus, on a turbo engine, the turbine will be spinning up to heaven knows what speed with insufficient oil in the bearings. OEM filters for me too, bikes and cars.

+1 on the OEM filters, every time.

 

[chapel gate]

Its fine, the old chaps told me stories of trucks being moved around the workshop with no oil in the sump.. obviously not recommended.

any old hand knows ideally a engine should be up to operating temperature before being used under full load.
equally if there is a turbo it should be allowed to idle for a few mins before shutting down.

Every older car manual i have read used to advise to allow the car to idle for a while before setting off.
Modern manuals tell you to set off immediately. Obviously for pollution concerns rather than engine longevity.

 

[Towpack]

A petrol engine will warm up to full operating temperature quite quickly if left to idle, a diesel won't as it produces little heat in comparison, it needs load so you're better off driving off once the oil pressure has maxed out and the oil is fully circulated round the engine, maybe 20-30 sec or so.

 

[Richard Turner]

In the handbook for the petrol 80 it says to let it idle for 30 seconds after starting before moving off. It also says not to leave it idling for more than 3 minutes or it will damage the catalytic converters.

 

[Lexie]

1st thing in the morning i always slip out and start her then go inside and get ready for work.. always done this with everything i have and drive including teleporter at work.

Look after it and itl return the favour

 

[chapel gate]

A petrol engine will warm up to full operating temperature quite quickly if left to idle, a diesel won't as it produces little heat in comparison, it needs load so you're better off driving off once the oil pressure has maxed out and the oil is fully circulated round the engine, maybe 20-30 sec or so.

Right you are tp. I didnt mean let the diesel idle up to working temp.( it would never happen) I let her idle for a couple of mins in the morning, especially when cold. Then i nurse her a little while driving until up to operating temp.

In my old vauxhall manual the advice for the uk on start up was to let idle for a couple of mins then drive off. In germany the advice was to drive off immediately. Germany had much stricter environmental laws at the time.

 

[Dave2000]

As many on here know I have a oil pressure warning light and buzzer in parallel. The sensor is adjustable and set IIRC at 20 psi. It takes around 6 - 7 seconds to turn the light out/buzzer off, during this time the OE (calibrated ) oil pressure gauge has yet to register.

IMO you are doing more damage cranking and letting the engine start only to stop...and crank again.....rinse and repeat.

Change the switch John, or fit an adjustable timer, then allow say 10 - 15 seconds to run?

By coincidence re the oil filters, since Mr T has moved the dealership far enough away to be a 3 hour plus round trip, I have been using Bosch or Millard oil filters from my local supplier. I do change my oil probably 3 or 4 times a year, this depends on miles and usage so get through a few filters.

A couple of weeks back I did a sacrificial oil and filter change, I removed the Millard oil filter that has done about 2,000 miles? I was surprised to find it empty, this is only about 20 minutes after shutting down the engine. The anti drain had clearly not worked, I drained and refilled and fitted one of the two new Millard filters that had been delivered earlier. Started and run for a short time, shut down and waited 20 minutes, the Millard was still full of oil. So a bad filter or not? I drained and refilled and fitted the second Millard filter.

I have not checked since so unsure if it is any good, the cooling system is being overhauled at the moment and I am experimenting with a PWM cooling fan.

If the present Millard does not hold when I check it after Christmas then back to either Bosch or Mr T

Regards

Dave

 

[Ben Stratford]

Simon Holton kindly sends my filters through the post to me which saves a while load of aggro. Well worth the extra £15 a time

 

[StarCruiser]

And Roughtrax do genuine oil filters mail order.