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Oil temp light

goodoldboy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2010
Messages
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with the mercury hitting 39 ive noticed the oil temp light coming on after start up.This is happening in the afternoon having driven the car in the morning.The first 2 mis from home are in low box so not much air flow over the engine.Once on the tarmac driving normally clears it as does free-wheeling in neutral.The oil level is fine , its got Fuchs fully synthetic in it , changed with a filter in January.Oil pressure light goes out after 2 - 3 seconds on a cold start.I normally do an oil & filter change every 6 months or 6000 but being as ive only put 3500 on it since Jan i thought id leave it a while.
 
Doesn't sound right... Here in Florida temps can be 40 degrees + easily and I've never had the oil temp light trigger. It's odd it does it after start up from sitting for a while too as the oil would have cooled down a bit from standing. Maybe a faulty sensor?
 
Tbh neither did I, ive got oil pressure and level warning lights
 
I've 're checked the level & it's below halfway on the dipstick.I've seen this occasionally in the past , during the winter at low ambient temperature (-8 or 10) after a short journey.Could this be an oil pick up issue like on KDJ engines? Showing 220 000 miles the engine us leak free & uses about half a litre in 6 months , mainly on local journeys , A roads & dual carriage ways & off roading , using a little more on a trip to the big city (motorways)
 
The first 2 mis from home are in low box so not much air flow over the engine.

Hmm, the jealousy is strong:violence-shootself:...

Are you sure it's the oil temperature warning, as others have said above?

I've checked my manual and there's no mention of an oil temp light. Oil level (oil can with a wavy line underneath), and oil pressure (can without the wavy line), yes but no mention of any oil temp light (apart from the A/T oil).

I can't remember if yours is a non-UK truck and so might be different.

UK trucks have an oil cooler which is part of the filter housing. I don't know how it works and whether it's airflow dependent.
 
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Hmm, the jealousy is strong:violence-shootself:...

Are you sure it's the oil temperature warning, as others have said above?

I've checked my manual and there's no mention of an oil temp light. Oil level (oil can with a wavy line underneath), and oil pressure (can without the wavy line), yes but no mention of any oil temp light (apart from the A/T oil).

I can't remember if yours is a non-UK truck and so might be different.

UK trucks have an oil cooler which is part of the filter housing. I don't know how it works and whether it's airflow dependent.
Er you're right Dave it is indeed the oil level!!! I've 're checked with the engine fully cold & it was on the bottom of the dipstick.Also my track from home has a fair bit of up & down & I think the high temperature was agrivating the problem.t seems the fully synthetic is being consumed at a higher rate than the vin ordinare that I usually put in
 
Do you know if you're burning oil or loosing it through the intake?

After installing a catch can, my manifold stopped weeping and after about 15,000 miles the can catches about 250ml in thickish oil.
 
Oil level sensors are a known weak point, but as long as you know your level your ok :)
 
Do you know if you're burning oil or loosing it through the intake?
How can I tell? I haven't noticed much oil in the intake on service , I take the top of the airbox & flexible pipe off to get at the filter.The oil consumption is between half & 1 liter every 6 months depending on what type of roads im on .The handbook of my old Audi 2.5 tdi said that consumption of up to 1 liter per 1000 miles was possible!! I never saw anything like that but high speed long distance cruising - 90 mph did use a little more oil.I don't have any blue smoke even on startup & emissions at not are fine.what is the thought behind the catch can idea?
 
my track from home has a fair bit of up & down

You're not making this any better :D

At 220000m I wouldn't be overly disappointed if my engine used a bit of oil. Mine loses a tiny amount between changes (so little I've never taken note of how much) at 199000. There will have been wear over the years to the bore and piston rings (even Toyota). I don't know what grade of oil you use, but conventional wisdom says a thicker grade than usual is a good thing in older engines.
 
At 220000m I wouldn't be overly disappointed if my engine used a bit of oil.
No I'm not really botherd , I had an old Nissan sunny that we used on the lanes here & it had a blow head gasket.we used it to pick up the kids from the school bus sometimes , a journey of about 1.5 miles & we had to check & top up oil & water daily !!! Wh had been given the car so it owed us nothing but it was an amazing piece of kit.we used it in this condition for about 2 years.This was back in the day when almost all of our neighbours had an old banger for "local use" (mostly land rover santanas ) with no tax , insurance or mot.
I seem to have been caught out by the oil consumption & was just wandering if fully synthetic gets used up quicker? As for thicker oil that would be a possibility but it would mean having a heavier grade spring/summer only as winter temps can reach -15
 
Got my trusty handbook in front of me:
-29 deg C or below to 12 = 5w-30
-18 to 38 and above =10w-30
-13 to 38 and above = 15w-40
-7 to 38 or above - 20w-50

I think in your shoes I'd go for 15w-40, which is what I use here in the UK as it happens (having read this, I wonder if I ought to try 20w-50 :icon-biggrin:)

In theory, whether its fully synth doesn't affect the grade, but the length of its life. There are so many opinions about oil... but these are old-fashioned lumps and mine seems perfectly happy with mineral oil/changes every 5000m

Great story about the Nissan (long-lasting cars in their day) and the 'local use' cars. I don't imagine that happens in the Britain these days, even in the Dales or the Highlands.
 
You won't see oil on the intake side of the turbo. You'll see oil on the cross over intake piece, and intake manifold if your turbo seals were weeping or oil was entering from the crank case. If not this, then you'll most likely just be burning it. Ever since installing the catch can, I've not lost any oil in between changes. It takes a good year to produce half a cup of oil in the can itself.
 
I think in your shoes I'd go for 15w-40, which is what I use here in the UK as it happens (having read this, I wonder if I ought to try 20w-50
.....which is what I normally use.The synthetic is 15 W 40 & the only reason I bought bit was because it was on offer at the local Toyota dealer at 4€ a L.Ill probably be back on the vin ordinare next oil change.The local car thing started to die out about 10 years ago , coinciding with the recession & the government realising that motorists were a good source of income.
 
You won't see oil on the intake side of the turbo. You'll see oil on the cross over intake piece, and intake manifold if your turbo seals were weeping or oil was entering from the crank case
I'm not sure exactly where the crankcase vents - I need to be more familiar with my engine!! Which of course us why I started this thread in the first place
 
On the top of your engine is the valve cover. You'll see a spout on the left hand side around the middle. This hose runs down to the post turbo where it eventually gets blown back into the engine via the intake.
 
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