Y'see, wasn't so hard was it Chris? 
Thanks, and they really do look the business. Hope they add a smidgen to the braking power....
Thanks, and they really do look the business. Hope they add a smidgen to the braking power....
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Project 80: Codename Grey Ghost
- Thread starter Chris
- Start date
Bodie
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- Sep 29, 2014
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Well Chris, your 80 has to be the bench mark......
Quick question, want to go down the same 315x75 Cooper MT route that you have, any recommendations on the modulars.
Also, I've been looking at a 2"-3" lift, will that be sufficient with these tyres? Have you used wheel spacers?
Regards
John
Quick question, want to go down the same 315x75 Cooper MT route that you have, any recommendations on the modulars.
Also, I've been looking at a 2"-3" lift, will that be sufficient with these tyres? Have you used wheel spacers?
Regards
John
Well that's very kind of you but there would be people who'd disagree, me being one of them. I am very pleased with it and I have tied to do it properly, but there problem is that the only perfect set up is the one that YOU are happy with. Many have been before me and done it differently. There's some fantastic advice out there for you to consider. A wise friend said to me that you had to have a use in mind before building the vehicle or else it would all be a compromise. So, for me, I wanted a vehicle with 5 usable seats. That's the sort of unmovable object. Everything else has been built around that. If I decided to go with only 2 seats, I'd pull it all out and rebuild. I wouldn't just fill in the bit where the seats were. See the idea? It would be a different vehicle.
OK tyres. Well I didn't want a great deal of off set. But it turned out that in all the searching, I couldn't get a steel with the right offset. I had to stick to 35" as I'd re geared the diffs. Non negotiable. I could then have gone 35" on 17 or 35" on 16 and when it came down to it, my hand was forced through tyre and rim choice really into the 16" set up.
But to the off set I certainly don't need spacers! I chose the Daytona rim as the D looked a bit more modern than the O pattern. Just vanity really.
Rubbing is a difficult thing to answer. It depends where it's rubbing. I have moved my front axle forward 18mm so to be fair I could probably have got away with no lift. Truth is that suspension lift doesn't pay off that much in terms of clearance. In fact as the chassis goes up, the radius arm swings down and back wards leading to LESS clearance. It's a balance. The real factor in my view are tyre width and tyre profile. A very square blocky tread will catch much more than say a road tyre with rounded shoulders. I have more than 4" of lift I'd say. It's hard to know. One thing you must do though is drop you bump stops or you'll munch your arches off.
OK tyres. Well I didn't want a great deal of off set. But it turned out that in all the searching, I couldn't get a steel with the right offset. I had to stick to 35" as I'd re geared the diffs. Non negotiable. I could then have gone 35" on 17 or 35" on 16 and when it came down to it, my hand was forced through tyre and rim choice really into the 16" set up.
But to the off set I certainly don't need spacers! I chose the Daytona rim as the D looked a bit more modern than the O pattern. Just vanity really.
Rubbing is a difficult thing to answer. It depends where it's rubbing. I have moved my front axle forward 18mm so to be fair I could probably have got away with no lift. Truth is that suspension lift doesn't pay off that much in terms of clearance. In fact as the chassis goes up, the radius arm swings down and back wards leading to LESS clearance. It's a balance. The real factor in my view are tyre width and tyre profile. A very square blocky tread will catch much more than say a road tyre with rounded shoulders. I have more than 4" of lift I'd say. It's hard to know. One thing you must do though is drop you bump stops or you'll munch your arches off.
Bodie
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Thanks Chris, helpful as ever.
Re your comment about Daytona rims, certainly agree about the 'D' Pattern, but I was wondering which rims are considered to be the most robust/strongest. For example, I have also have a Land Rover 130 and the original 130 steel rims are known to be the strongest (but like 'Rocking Horse *"%*'), then Wolf (Military) Rims, then 'after market' etc... Just wondered if there is any rule of thumb for LC wheels.
J.
Re your comment about Daytona rims, certainly agree about the 'D' Pattern, but I was wondering which rims are considered to be the most robust/strongest. For example, I have also have a Land Rover 130 and the original 130 steel rims are known to be the strongest (but like 'Rocking Horse *"%*'), then Wolf (Military) Rims, then 'after market' etc... Just wondered if there is any rule of thumb for LC wheels.
J.
Well in truth I got what I could get. There wasn't much 'decision' making to be done.
Frankly there is a load of old bollox talked about steel wheels and alloys. Steel wheels CAN be hammered back into shape - yes because they actually bend fairly easily in the first place. I'd generally stick with OEM alloys. They lighter and very very strong. I didn't on this occasion because, rather ashamedly, I wanted them in black. Also squeezing 315s on to the rims had me wondering. Since found out they go on fine. You can use a 10" rim, but that exposes the side walls more so I stuck with 8" and I'm happy. You also lose a little hight if you stretch the tyre across a 10" rim. OK tight maybe but not going to pop a bead if I air down.
Frankly there is a load of old bollox talked about steel wheels and alloys. Steel wheels CAN be hammered back into shape - yes because they actually bend fairly easily in the first place. I'd generally stick with OEM alloys. They lighter and very very strong. I didn't on this occasion because, rather ashamedly, I wanted them in black. Also squeezing 315s on to the rims had me wondering. Since found out they go on fine. You can use a 10" rim, but that exposes the side walls more so I stuck with 8" and I'm happy. You also lose a little hight if you stretch the tyre across a 10" rim. OK tight maybe but not going to pop a bead if I air down.
Actually spent the day taking my quad to bits. Quite few things needed doing after ten years of abuse and neglect. But in between jobs, got around to fitting a double USB point in the 80.
Pretty thin thing to mill out of plate I have to say. Looks a little rough here but finished up OK with a file.
The unit said Toyota but was for an Anus or Rectum, I don't know the model. Any hoo, it wouldn't fit in the standard 80 slot. So I made a new slot.
It fitted around the unit and the unit fitted into the dash. Job done. it works but isn't beautiful.
The outer piece pressed nicely into the dash
Voila. As they say in Spain. Errr...
Pretty thin thing to mill out of plate I have to say. Looks a little rough here but finished up OK with a file.
The unit said Toyota but was for an Anus or Rectum, I don't know the model. Any hoo, it wouldn't fit in the standard 80 slot. So I made a new slot.
It fitted around the unit and the unit fitted into the dash. Job done. it works but isn't beautiful.
The outer piece pressed nicely into the dash
Voila. As they say in Spain. Errr...
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Nice one Chris, I'm p!ssed off with multi cigar sockets and wires everywhere. I don't know why there aren't loads of options of aftermarket usb's for cars and trucks by now. Most drivers have more than one gadget to charge these days, and most drivers have passengers with gadgets.
I'd like a bank of 4 or 6 to go in the drink holder aperture, and a few sockets accessible from the second row of seats. Don't seem to find anything suitable on the interweb....
I'd like a bank of 4 or 6 to go in the drink holder aperture, and a few sockets accessible from the second row of seats. Don't seem to find anything suitable on the interweb....
Towpack
Well-Known Member
I'm also not a fan of the fag socket adaptors that seem to come with every 12v device you might use in the car these days. There are panel mountable USB/mini USB outlets readily available but non (that I can find) that will fit straight in to a spare dash switch blank on the 80 so if you want the neat 'OE' look you have to get creative as Chris has done. I've put 2 extra fag sockets plus a higher rated 25 amp power pole ended lead in the side plastic trim panel in the load/rear seat area. The rear of the centre console housing also looks like a good place for mounting permanent panel mounted outlets for use by the middle row seat occupants.
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- May 13, 2014
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Oohh ahhh. Nice. Expensive though.
I've spent ages putting fag lighter sockets in only to be outdated by everything being USB powered now. But to sort that, I just bought some very neat, flat double USB plug in adaptors. They work well. I just wanted on in the dash to power my ipad as I drive along listening to it through the new stereo. I also changed the OEM ciggy lighter socket as it looked pretty tired and put a smart new 20 amp one in.
I've spent ages putting fag lighter sockets in only to be outdated by everything being USB powered now. But to sort that, I just bought some very neat, flat double USB plug in adaptors. They work well. I just wanted on in the dash to power my ipad as I drive along listening to it through the new stereo. I also changed the OEM ciggy lighter socket as it looked pretty tired and put a smart new 20 amp one in.
hopeless wanderer
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- Aug 21, 2014
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I picked one of these up in Oz on my last trip, reasonably priced and they fit in a carling surround ...well at least they say they do.
Will be fitting them in the next few weeks
Attachments
I like them, and they take a standard 12v supply from the rear I presume.
Must do some more searching, they would do nicely.
Thanks guys...
Must do some more searching, they would do nicely.
Thanks guys...
Guys I have moved the bull bar thread to here
http://www.landcruiserclub.net/foru...15-Legality-of-Bull-Bars-and-Winch-Bumpers-UK
It's really nothing to do with my build. Diversions are fine but that's a major hijacking.
http://www.landcruiserclub.net/foru...15-Legality-of-Bull-Bars-and-Winch-Bumpers-UK
It's really nothing to do with my build. Diversions are fine but that's a major hijacking.
OK so what's the mad bugger been up to this weekend?
Well, I started by machining up one of these. And some bits to go with it, obviously.
Then I welded this bit to that bit, like this.
Hmm, six holes I wonder what they might be for.
Then this bit locks in here
So when not in use, it's stored in here like this
But when needed it goes on the other way round like so.
Then you stick your spare wheel back on
And insert the tube bit and lock with the pin
Yes, you guessed it. It's a tyre changing post. Much easier to have a central pole to work the tyre levers around rather than grubbing around on the floor.
Well, I started by machining up one of these. And some bits to go with it, obviously.
Then I welded this bit to that bit, like this.
Hmm, six holes I wonder what they might be for.
Then this bit locks in here
So when not in use, it's stored in here like this
But when needed it goes on the other way round like so.
Then you stick your spare wheel back on
And insert the tube bit and lock with the pin
Yes, you guessed it. It's a tyre changing post. Much easier to have a central pole to work the tyre levers around rather than grubbing around on the floor.
good idea, I like that 
Thanks JW. I have been meaning to make one for ages. Ever since the BOAB tyre demo if you recall it. They had one what clamped onto a winch bumper tube. I want to see if I can make an attachment to hold a small vice on there too. Handy for bush repairs. Making a tyre lever holder thing at present too.
I seem to recall the BOAB one wasn't all that reliable how it clamped to the bumper. Nice that yours doesn't add much to what you're carrying really but will make a big difference if it's needed
