Quick bit of CDL advice please

Chris

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Not really, other than access as you have noticed is very very difficult. In fact without adding some wiggle room as you say, probably impossible. Other alternative is cut a hole in the floor and weld it back in afterwards! No I am not serious, but it's an alternative.
 
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Rob-o

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C5A3B0C2-FA44-433B-B549-3FFFCBD89943.jpeg 76422C0A-F148-4B4D-BD1A-25604DEB59C6.jpeg Well I’ve got the actuator off, not a bad job to be fair. Inside was full of rusty water and silt, one of the motor windings is burned out and one of the contacts that control the motor stop mechanism is corroded. Could this bad contact have been confusing the relays explaining their erratic behaviour? Or the motor burning?


Rob
 

ByronJ

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View attachment 144564 View attachment 144563 Well I’ve got the actuator off, not a bad job to be fair. Inside was full of rusty water and silt, one of the motor windings is burned out and one of the contacts that control the motor stop mechanism is corroded. Could this bad contact have been confusing the relays explaining their erratic behaviour? Or the motor burning?


Rob
Hi Rob

Was the actuator the source of your CDL problems?
 
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Rob-o

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Was the actuator the source of your CDL problems?

Hi,

Yes it was, fitted a good second hand one from Karl and it fixed everything.

The breather was split on mine up above the transfer box so now I’ve got a new breather all the way up to the engine bay, hopefully no more water in there!

Rob
 
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AndycruiserguyLomas

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I've just had exactly the same problem, stuck in CDL when low box engaged then disengaged, went through everything electrically, changed both relays ( in both footwells) no joy. Changed the actuator and its fine. Best way to re fit actuator I found is to turn the engaging wheel yo the point where the CDL is engaged and the light ( yellow) is on and the ABS light is on, then engage CDL switch or put in LOW so the actuator functions then fit the actuator. This way when it is disarmed it will return all the way and its travel in each direction will be as it should be.
This took me a good while to figure out and I was lucky I had a spare actuator. I hope you have a ramp or pit as the gearbox has to be lowered a good way down to get at it.

Ah, I see you've done it.
 
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ByronJ

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Was the actuator the source of your CDL problems?

Hi,

Yes it was, fitted a good second hand one from Karl and it fixed everything.

The breather was split on mine up above the transfer box so now I’ve got a new breather all the way up to the engine bay, hopefully no more water in there!

Rob
Cheers Rob

Thanks for the information. The breather on my CDL has rotted at the T joint so I am pretty sure it has allowed water in. Especally as we did a lot of deep swimming earlier this year when in Lesotho. Reckon I will take the exactly the same route as you.

Hi @AndycruiserguyLomas thanks for the guidance, no pit or ramp here but the car has a 2" lift so I can get under it easily and hope to the drop the crossmember (TF box and all) an inch or so to do the job. Fingers crossed.
 

AndycruiserguyLomas

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Cheers Rob

Thanks for the information. The breather on my CDL has rotted at the T joint so I am pretty sure it has allowed water in. Especally as we did a lot of deep swimming earlier this year when in Lesotho. Reckon I will take the exactly the same route as you.

Hi @AndycruiserguyLomas thanks for the guidance, no pit or ramp here but the car has a 2" lift so I can get under it easily and hope to the drop the crossmember (TF box and all) an inch or so to do the job. Fingers crossed.
If you drop the gearbox down so far it will come to rest on the ARB, you might get the actuator off at that point but will be easier if you undo the ARB mounts to drop it down further. It may be noted that you will have to remove the transfer box lever and probably the gearlever as the TB lever will deffo foul the tunnel as it drops.
I found it easier for access if the cross member is removed too. I dropped mine down with a large scissor jack but I did have the luxury of a pit to work from.
 
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Rob-o

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Cheers Rob

Thanks for the information. The breather on my CDL has rotted at the T joint so I am pretty sure it has allowed water in. Especally as we did a lot of deep swimming earlier this year when in Lesotho. Reckon I will take the exactly the same route as you.

Hi @AndycruiserguyLomas thanks for the guidance, no pit or ramp here but the car has a 2" lift so I can get under it easily and hope to the drop the crossmember (TF box and all) an inch or so to do the job. Fingers crossed.

I did mine on the drive, with a bottle jack to hold the gearbox. I don’t have an arb to get in the way and mines a manual so no gearstick fouling issues, fairly straightforward really. Couple of hours start to finish. I found having a rear wheel jacked up also meant I could kick the wheel round whilst I turned the cog in the transfer box to make sure the CDL was locked. Then plug in the new actuator before you fit it and lock the CDL on the dash and you know everything’s in the right position.

Rob
 
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karl webster

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Cheers Rob

Thanks for the information. The breather on my CDL has rotted at the T joint so I am pretty sure it has allowed water in. Especally as we did a lot of deep swimming earlier this year when in Lesotho. Reckon I will take the exactly the same route as you.

Hi @AndycruiserguyLomas thanks for the guidance, no pit or ramp here but the car has a 2" lift so I can get under it easily and hope to the drop the crossmember (TF box and all) an inch or so to do the job. Fingers crossed.
the job can be done on the floor without dropping the cross member. its not as easy though. not a bad job at all really.
 
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clivehorridge

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Hi Rob, good news that its all sorted now, thanks to your hard work and help from the forum guys :thumbup:

I don’t know if you’ve considered it, but I’ve found a lot of benefit from disconnecting the switch that auto enabled CDL when in low. It’s simple to do, just diconnecting the plug from the switch.

If you do any heavy towing or off-road, it’s very nice to be able to select low and still have an open CD. It makes the truck so much more maneuverable in low especially if you’re reversing a heavy trailer uphill into a tight driveway or similar...

Cheers !
 

Rob-o

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Hi Rob, good news that its all sorted now, thanks to your hard work and help from the forum guys :thumbup:

I don’t know if you’ve considered it, but I’ve found a lot of benefit from disconnecting the switch that auto enabled CDL when in low. It’s simple to do, just diconnecting the plug from the switch.

If you do any heavy towing or off-road, it’s very nice to be able to select low and still have an open CD. It makes the truck so much more maneuverable in low especially if you’re reversing a heavy trailer uphill into a tight driveway or similar...

Cheers !
I should have posted as soon as I had it sorted, sorry everyone, thanks for the input!


I do have a switch on the dash as it happens, the previous owner did it. I agree, very useful, the mrs likes it when parking in confined spaces. It’s such a good idea they should have done it from standard!

Rob
 
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