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Rear lights explanation (newbie question)

Jureb

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Joined
Dec 29, 2020
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110
Hi all,
I just bought my first Land Cruiser, it's a 2002 90 series with a 1KD-FTV engine (European model). I have a question regarding all rear lights. I am not sure that all of my rear lights are working.

Is there only 1 rear fog light? Mine is located on the left side of the car in a side (tall) light. Should there be another fog light on the right side?
Are braking lights only in the bumper lights or should they also be in the side "tall" lights?

Can someone explain the position of each light, marker, stop light, fog light(s?)....
Here is a rather bad picture explaining my question, I hope it's good enough:
1609261676620.png
 
Its nuts but after the 90 series was designed and was about to go into production some numpty (probably in Brussels) decided the upper lights were illegal because with the rear door fully open the spare wheel can parially hide the lights on one side which is a danger to incredibly stupid people (politicians) and so the bumper lights were added as a quick fix .

I can't remember which is supposed to be what but i'm thinking upper lights were used instead for 1 reverse light and 1 fog light , its so ridiculous a bodge i was forced to add a central fog light to my bumper at one annual ministry of transport test regardless that it had passed the same test for nearly 20 years without it :icon-rolleyes:

Its a common modification on the forum to make the upper lights work as intended when it was designed , i bought smoked leds for my truck .
 
Thanks for the answer. I also noticed that bumper running lights don't bright as I would want to, maybe I should change the bulbs.

Another thing, when the brake is pressed the right bumper running light goes out, the right braking light also doesn't turn on. Turning on the right turning signal also turns off the right running + braking light. I've read something about these electrical "gremlins", maybe my issue has something to do with oxidized contacts in the light... Will have to open and inspect. I've also read that people give these things up and just buy a new light :D.
 
If I'm understanding right, there really is only 1 rear fog light? I know it's a common thing for cars to have 1 rear fog light but for a vehicle such as a land cruiser which never was a cheap vehicle it is kinda odd.
 
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Hi Jureb. With those symptoms you describe, with different lights on/off when braking/indicating, I would check your towbar socket and loom connections. Those symptoms are so typical of corroded terminals and poor earth, normally related to the towing socket you have on there.
 
So if the ground/earth in the towing socket is not good it can affect the lights... This is probably due to the lights being connected after the towing socket and the towing socket grounding affects everything wired after it. If the towing socket ground is not good it screws everything wired after the towing socket. I'm assuming.
 
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Correct, removing the 12n socket would allow you access to the wiring inside. These sockets are not 100% weatherproof even when fitted properly with correct rubber gaskets. Being at the rear, low down, everything gets slung in that direction, and I have seen some real rusty corroded messes in them.
You need also to look at where/how the socket takes its relevant power from, lights, indicators, brake light, whether this is through an approved loom plugged in to the main wiring loom or crappy scotchlock type connectors.
 
I had the same issues with lights not working. It's easier to replace the complete rear loom than try and fix it, mostly due to access as they run above the fuel tank (well they do on my 99 Collie). Also replaced my bumper lights for new and they are nice and bright ( the original lights internal reflector plating had faded away).
 
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Mick, you could well be right if loom/ wiring damaged/broken somewhere, but if it's just a case of poor connections at point of connection, 're making those connections is a whole lot easier than removing a whole section of loom and replacing. To replace loom would involve removing the 12n socket anyway, so that would give an insight as to the condition of socket and enclosed wiring, or other iffy connections in that area.
 
Very good information. Thanks, I surely will open and inspect the insides of the 12n socket! Thank you all for help. I will update after I've opened and inspected the tow socket wiring.

Mick, thanks for bringing up the detail about internal reflector plating fading away, this must be the case in my rear lights.

Thanks also for the tips on buying new rear lights!
 
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I also found this useful "exterior illumination" wiring diagram for early 95 series published by Finiterex in some other thread:
I however don't see the fog lamps on the wiring diagram, most likely because early 95 series didn't have them.
If someone has a similar wiring diagram for later 95 series model please post it :D.
1609282812687.png
 
Probably from Ellery's manual and Australian trucks dont have fog lights
 
Bottom is indicator, brake and tail. Side is reverse and brake and tail. Nothing in the top lens. That's how it is on mine (Australia), no fog lights here so I'm guessing the side ones will be fog lights in the UK.
 
After renewal of the tow socket before you seal it up put some vaselene over the electrical contacts wires and screws that will help repel moisture you can also lift up the protective flap smear some over the contact pins and connect trailer plug to force it in have done this for years without water or damp problems
 
+1 for Vaseline.

In 2003 I got a brand new Ford Focus TDci with a factory-fitted towbar (company car that I subsequently bought). At about six months old the towing socket stopped working so I stripped it - it was rotted out as it had been fitted dry!

I fitted a new socket with loads of Vaseline on the contacts and now - at 17 years old - its still working.

I currently have four tow vehicles, five trailers and three lighting boards - all the towing electrics have Vaseline on the contacts - its good stuff :thumbup:.

(Usual disclaimers).

Bob.
 
So a little update:
Like I mentioned my right (bumper) tail light turns OFF when I press the brake pedal and the brake light doesn't turn on.
- I've checked the bulbs and they're fine,
- I've looked under the car to inspect the light and I've noticed that the white-black (WB) wire which is the ground wire is not connected to the tail light's metallic enclosure/metallic "cylinder"/ground! This must be the reason for my "light show".

I will solder the WB wire to the light's ground and hope it will fix the problem. The light's ground/metallic enclosure is VERY oxidized aka covered in rust and I hope I will be able to get a good electrical connection with the wire when I solder them together. I've sanded down a little bit of the rust with wire brush mounted on a power drill but for now it seems that the light's ground is maybe rusted too much.

I hope you will make some sense from what I've written, here's a picture.

1610283011128.png
 
Very clear Jureb, and the most likely cause of your problem. Lets hope you can find an area of good metal on there you can get a good clean fix to, if not there, on another part of that ground. If not solder, maybe with pilot hole drilled and pk screw. As long as all surfaces clean, the thread of the screw biting in metal should help.
Unfortunately as seen, those with low level lights on their cruisers have found the same after time.
I had both the metal shrouds/covers rot out on my 120, and had to replace. There's just not enough protection from all the sh/t that gets slung in that direction.
 
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