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Replacing 80 rear transfer case seal

What wrong with taking the nut out of the middle of the flange the prop bolts to. Thats the way it tell me to do in the Haynes. Is there a reason or just different ways of doing it DSC_0004.JPG
 
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I would just take off the central nut, slide the flange off and replace the seal. All done on the car. If there is a bad groove in the tube/flange the new seal may leak. A small rough groove can be polished in the lathe. A deep groove will need a speedisleeve.
 
Well it's really very simple. The drive flanges aren't held on with a nut. They are locked into the transfer case with the snap rings inside. Now, on the earlier box it may well be different as it is in the picture. But it's not how mine is put together. They are long shafts that extend right into the viscous coupling. If you have nuts then go that way for sure.
 
Thanks for letting me know. Just got a bit confused il try the easy way first. Just though I would ask. :icon-biggrin:
 
Well if there is a nut, it's like the diagram. If there isn't then you will have to strip it. I have never seen one with the nut design like in the drawing. I have a box outside and just went to look at it to make sure I wasn't going mad. No, I am not. The drive shaft is solid.
 
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Just trying to tackle this job but the rear case just will not come loose. All 9 bolts out, speedo cable out, electrical plugs unplugged but it's not letting go.
I have even tried putting a bottle jack under the drive flange and lifting that but it's not budging one bit.
Also tried putting a 600mm long tube up the end of the drive flange and levering on that.
There seems to be Orange gasket 'stuff' that is keeping it all together :(
It hasn't moved at all so it hasn't locked up on the dowels by coming out on the pish.

Any advice appreciated.
 
Not unusual. That FRG stuff or whatever they call it is good stuff. The dowels do keep it well centred so I think you will just need to keep at it. I would never advocate hitting screwdrivers, ever - but if you get two screwdrivers and try tapping them in 180 degrees apart you might get some movement.
 
I got my mate Percy Vearance to give me a hand, also used a large jemmy bar and it's off.
Thanks Chris.
 
Sweet and no screwdriver abuse to report.
 
It's worse than that. I tapped the end of the output shaft to knock it out of the bearing and have bent the end of the shaft, it's a small tube looking thing made of aluminium :cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry:
I thought the end was steel and I was hitting it with a copper hammer... it shouldn't be that shape/

Please tell me I haven't got to buy a complete new shaft and this aluminium piece come out.

i-FQz7zSV-X2.jpg


i-vG6nmrk-X2.jpg


i-2v59KvF-X2.jpg
 
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Oh you knob. What have you done!
 
You are right Chris, knob is an understatement. I was tired and should have stopped working.
Looks like its going to be a £400 mistake
 
Bend it straight? Or cut a bit off if it's that bulge is what the problem is. It's an oil feed pipe isn't it?
 
I think you might be right Frank, is doesn't appear to be anything too crucial as it is simply an aluminium pipe. But, being a complete chump I obviously hit it so hard before noticing it is now about 5 or 6mm shorter.
I found another shaft quite local to me. It is from an early 80 with the none viscous coupling transfer case, but.... the shaft is different for some reason.
Have a look at the images, there is what appears to be an area that looks like a bearing should sit on there but I can't work out where that bearing would be.
I have offered it up to my transfer case and all looks okay, the splines are slightly shorter on the new one but unless the female spline inside the box moved backwards during normal use I think it will be okay..
Anyone have any thoughts on this one?

My fubbared shaft:-
i-jC8crCh-X2.jpg


The replacement:-
i-SsLMnp6-X2.jpg
 
Hard to say but as it's wrecked why don't you have a go at pulling the bent pipe out to see if it's simply swapable overable.
 
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