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Replacing heater plugs on 2.4

wobbly

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Joined
Nov 27, 2010
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2,686
Garage
As winter approachs, I intend to replace the heater plugs.

Is this something I could do myself (like changing a spark plug), or is it more complicated ie like replacing injectors.

Cheers

Pete
 
The heater plugs are connected together by a "bridge" that is the electrical connection. I suggest you spray a release agent around the base of the plugs the day before you intend to remove them. Remove the bridge and gently undo each plug a couple of turns. Using a suitable brush, wipe away any dirt or debris from around the base of the plugs. If you have one, an air line is best. Fully unscrew and remove.On the 1KZ-T engine, there is a procedure for cleaning carbon deposits from the glow plug hole using a 6mm and 4mm drills. I have no idea what the procedure is on the 2.4 engine. Torque settings for the plugs is 9ft-lbf.

If the plugs are working, why do you want to replace them?

Roger
 
Partly because i've never done it before, and the bits are cheap, but its started taking two or 3 tries for it to fire from cold, and heater plugs seem a logical place to start.

I have another day planned in my mates workshop, so want to make full use of it.

Injectors will be a garage job.

Pete
 
Rog

Does the electrical bridge just pull off, or is it screwed down?

Pete
 
wobbly said:
Rog

Does the electrical bridge just pull off, or is it screwed down?

Pete

The bridge is usually a strip of copper sheet pressed to shape. It's retained by small nuts and washers.

Roger
 
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Thats great guys, thanks for the help, doubt I would try some of this stuff without the info from here.

Pete
 
Made a few basic checks before starting to strip it out - found the problem - there is no power to the buzzbar when there should be.

I found the solenoid tucked in behind the battery - I'm guessing that there is an inline fuse in one of the wires - looks like a grey two part connector.

Need to speak to my mechanic first though, find out exactly how they wired the new manual switch in.

Will pick up some easy start to get me over the weekend.

Pete
 
Roger Fairclough said:
A kettle of boiling water poured over the inlet manifold is just as effective.

Roger

Ooooo, I might have to try that one Roger..
My plugs are OK, well three of them are.......one snapped off, trying to get it out, and now will require the head off to remove it.

I took off the relay, because I found it wasn't being switched off, and therefore was going to burn them out?
I was going to wire in a push button on the dash, to switch the relay on manually. Haven't gotten around to it yet.........Yesterday went out to start her up to meet some mates for breakfast, and had to use easystart down the snorkel to fire it................I can't find where I put the damn relay.. :(

PS I did try running the motor with the damaged plug all ready to come out, hoping that the compression would blow it out.. :o
The threaded part comes out but the glowing bit is stuck in the head.

Didn't work. :thumbdown:
 
The ceramic tip is probably locked into place with a build up of carbon. Hence the instructions in the manual on how to clear the carbon deposits.

Roger
 
I'm not sure if it would even work but could you not carefully drill a small pilot hole then follow that with a screw and then pull the screw and the tip out? If it fails you can always fall back on removing the head?

Good luck
 
Hot water on the intake manifold worked - car started after a few seconds.
 
wobbly said:
Hot water on the intake manifold worked - car started after a few seconds.

Had a little dumper truck in the field when I was a kid, to get it started we used to have to heat the block up with the gas :shock: eventually my dad rebuilt the engine but then he sold it, I lost my toy!
 
Got the truck back, now working nicely again.

The problem:

A few weeks back I changed the oil on the truck. Shortly after I was getting a smell of burning oil - I assumed this was because I had overfilled it slightly. A few days ago the burning smell stopped.

And the connection....

Was nothing to do with oil - seems the wiring on the preheater was substandard and was melting, thus giving off burning smell, which I linked to oil cos that what it smelt like.

All now rewired and moved away from block.

Fingers crossed all will be fine, hot water is ok now, but no fun when its -20 next week!

Pete
 
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