Replacing tie rod ends

[Shayne]

I can't get them out of the knuckle the taper has seized solid , searching for tools this is the only thing to present itself

Which doesn't really look very promising .

I'm about to take a grinder to it as its the only way i can see to get some heat in there but will i regret it ?

Any suggestions welcome .

 

[clivehorridge]

Probably Shayne, you can do what you like with a grinder, but it will never shift the taper pin.

My advice is to sit yourself comfortably with the ball joint situated right in front of you, then hit both sides of the "eye" simultaneously with two 2lb hammers (one in each hand) as hard as you can.

Start with taps to synchronize the hits (practice) then increase the force of the hits until it cracks off. Trust me it works.

NEVER hit the end of the pin, it only spreads it inside the "eye" and makes it tighter to shift.

Otherwise, this is the best type of breaker tool... IMO



Ooooh, that's come out BIG.... still, big is beautiful

 

[Towpack]

I have both tools and have had more success with the screw type, plus you can it to apply some pressure while using the 2 hammers method at the same time.

 

[clivehorridge]

Sometimes, one crack with a single hammer is enough, but I've done so many in my time ranging from 10 seconds to an all day job, but eventually they "go".

That screw type also allows you to hit the end of the screw pin, after you've tightened it as close as you dare before snapping the fork

I've had a few of them, but they usually bend before they snap, but you have to be going some to bend them.

 

[Shayne]

I like the idea of sitting comfortably but are we talking about the same thing ?



Tools are out anyway she has disappeared somewhere with my truck besides i am spoilt for choice locally for tools because both halfords and screwfix sell ...... some .

 

[clivehorridge]

Yep.



A BFH each side as with the arras...


And it looks like you've already had a go at the end of the pin. Tut-tut

 

[Shayne]

So brake disc and everything off just for one bolt sod it that's enough for today i might weld a bar on it tomorrow see if i can crack it with a turn .

 

[clivehorridge]

So brake disc and everything off just for one bolt sod it that's enough for today i might weld a bar on it tomorrow see if i can crack it with a turn .

No chance Shayne, believe me.

Try a crack with a hammer along the line of the arm (can't draw that with arras...) let me try something...

 

[Shayne]

Had a bit of a brainstorm while putting things away and soaked them in brick acid cleaner , if i pop out every hour before bed and do the same it might penetrate you never know .

 

[clivehorridge]

Had a bit of a brainstorm while putting things away and soaked them in brick acid cleaner , if i pop out every hour before bed and do the same it might penetrate you never know .

Well, even if it doesn't help shift them at least they'll be nice and shiny

 

[Shayne]

Nothing to lose by trying mate things get broken when i lose my temper and the mot station has annoyed me , I reckon it would have cost someone else 500 quid at a garage to correct the fail which was perfectly safe anyway and then they would have been left to drive around with serious issues that got no mention .

 

[clivehorridge]

Nothing to lose by trying mate things get broken when i lose my temper and the mot station has annoyed me , I reckon it would have cost someone else 500 quid at a garage to correct the fail which was perfectly safe anyway and then they would have been left to drive around with serious issues that got no mention .

Often the case Shayne.

I remember cleaning up a brake pipe that had failed as 'rotten' using the word the tester used on the fail ticket. It was shiny after no more than a quick rub with wet-and-dry. I even sprayed it with clear lacquer for effect, to show the guy on the re-test (after fitting a new pipe).

I said would you pass that pipe, and he said of course. I then broke the news that it was the pipe he had failed and as he was stuttering a bit I wound it around a broomstave in a coil-spring fashion to show it wasn't rotten at all (they usually crack easily if they're thin).

I appreciate some difficulties they have because they're not allowed to bodge holes in bodywork or bend pipes in case they break, but there are limits.

Count to ten, then count again.

Good luck with the re-test, I can see the guy wearing those ball joints otherwise...

 

[Shayne]

It will pass now , brake pads and rack bushes were all they wanted so i doubt i will be in there two minutes , just glance and tick and away you go .

Glutton for punishment here has decided the tie rods and roll bar links should have failed so i'm replacing them anyway .

 

[Ben]

Clive's 2 hammer method is an awesome way to split them!

I'm not a fan of the proper tools, pictured above as they often damage the rubber boots! Even if the ball joint is knackered, I always like to save the rubber boots as they can and do split, so to have spare boots to put on an otherwise good ball joint is handy.

If you dont feel you can get 2 hammers in without removing the brake disc, try just one hammer and while you hit the side/end of the arm, keep some downward pressure on the drag link with your foot to encourage the ball joint to separate.

 

[Shayne]

I will get it now i know its a common problem i was just hoping someone would say something like twist it this way and tap it that way to release . My brick acid will work wonders i might even find they have fell out in the morning ....................

 

[Sag]

Used one of theses forks the other day on our mondeo and what a load of shite,it snapped as soon as I gave it a big whack,so just give it a whack where you've been told and dropped straight out,the bottom arm was another pain here's what I ended up doing I know doesn't look good but worked in the end.

 

[Chris]

I have the pivot jaw type pictured by Clive. Never ever failed me. Regardless of how stubborn, it's popped it. The only tip is to grease the threaded bolt regulalry. The pressure on it is immense and if you use it dry you will damage the threads eventually. Wind it up until you daren't do anymore and then leave it. I head gently too sometimes, but leave the pressure on. A light tap very often will ping it to. The fork type are rubbish for this application. I hear what Ben says about damage to the boot, but inserted carefully under the rubber it really shouldn't damage it.

Oh, never use a ratchet spanner in there. If it's solid and you need to reposition, you can't get the spanner off! Some have the bolt head INSIDE the jaws you see.

 

[Shayne]

So erm ....... why didn't y'all tell me yesterday i only needed the right tool

 

[clivehorridge]

So erm ....... why didn't y'all tell me yesterday i only needed the right tool

I told you straight, along with the alternative BFH option which also works every time.

 

[Shayne]

You did mate and thanks to you and everyone that replied , its all a learning curve and its easy to forget your first time

For the benefit of others my first attempt with your tool was a fail , I put it on so it denied me a good crack with a hammer to assist things and it wasn't going to budge without the hammer , the scissor bolt was running off the arm i tightened it so much . So i rotated it a bit , tightened it as much again and gave it a smack with a lump hammer on the front bit between Clive's 2 arrows and bingo .