Replacing Transfer Case

[120mm]

So, I'm looking at a really nice 80 that has a broken transfer case. Owner has priced it accordingly, and am wondering if there is anything special I need to know about replacing it. Am assuming I can just get a junkyard one, bolt it up and go.

Thoughts?

Drew

 

[Dave2000]

Assuming that is all that is wrong with it more or less yes except, depending on model it may or may not have a VC, IIRC the propshaft is a different length?

regards

Dave

 

[Chris]

Correct Dave. Actually removing and replacing the T case is as simple as 9 bolts and a few connections. As well as the prop shafts of course. It's worth having a wiggle at the junk yard one to see how the end shaft bearings feel. They are a bit of an arse to replace and once on the car you won't want to take it off again. You have to actually remove the two extension housings to get at the bearings and seals. Not hard to change the components but you do need 3 arms. If all is good then yes it should just bolt on. Best if you can get one that's the same as the one coming off. Try to measure the distance from prop flange to prop flange or as Dave rightly said you'll end up needing a new rear prop which of course you could get from the junker. When they have been dragged off scrap cars, the dust shields on the companion flanges tend to get battered as they pulled through the yard. They can be hammer straightened but just something to watch out for. Keep all of the connections off the old box too. There are three or four lock sensors as well as the locking motor that are all worth keeping as spares. If the new box is the same, you could always remove and swap the end extensions if they are better than the one you get from the scrapper. That's easier than swapping the bearings I guess.

 

[Dave2000]

Correct or as Dave rightly said you'll end up needing a new rear prop which of course you could get from the junker.

Don't take it that I am the font of t/case knowledge, IIRC it was 'Karl' who put me right on that last year.

regards

Dave

 

[120mm]

It's currently being driven as a 2wd daily, so am assuming the remainder of the car is fine. Unless, of course, they are screwing up something by driving it as such.

Thanks!

 

[Dave2000]

Quite common to disconnect a propshaft and drive on2wd but, it is rare to have 2wd and not 4wd UNLESS the seller thinks the 4wd is at fault when it is something like a seized VC coupling? Which is an easy fix simply by removing it.


regards

Dave

 

[Chris]

Some 80 models have 2x4 option through fwh on the front
I know it was news to me too

 

[120mm]

Thanks for the help, gentlemen, but it appears this series 80 has sold. I have learned some things though from this thread.

 

[120mm]

Aaaand I was wrong. It came back on the market and I had a friend snap it up for me, but only after beating down the seller on price, like a Leopard on a gazelle. it has gone back to the mechanics and is having the transfer case and rear main seal replaced.



I will be flying down to Phoenix on Saturday and driving it out to San Diego, and then back to Iowa and will be blogging about my experience along the way.

See more at https://hotmilkforbreakfast.wordpress.com/2015/01/14/returning-to-the-land-of-cruiser/

Cheers!

Drew

 

[clivehorridge]

Drew!

BTW, any idea what the "pips" are on the front of the hood? I guess not until you see it yourself up close.

 

[Gav Peter]

Maybe for one of those wind deflector thingies Clive... I wondered that on the other thread

 

[clivehorridge]

Yes, I've seen them Gav, or they could have been for a "cloth" usually PVC cover thingy on the leading edge of the hood (sorry, bonnet) to prevent stone-chips.

 

[120mm]

Yeah, I'm kind of wondering as well. I'm not really THAT curious, as those, as well as the plastic fender and rocker skirts are going in the trash as soon as I get around to working on it. Not a real big fan of plastic accents on cars.

 

[clivehorridge]

Yeah, I'm kind of wondering as well. I'm not really THAT curious, as those, as well as the plastic fender and rocker skirts are going in the trash as soon as I get around to working on it. Not a real big fan of plastic accents on cars.

Some rock sliders, and f/r steel bars would be OK and a bit of a lift would help if you're going to do some off-road.

As long as you don't fit 3 tonnes of armour, but that's not likely is it

 

[120mm]

Some rock sliders, and f/r steel bars would be OK and a bit of a lift would help if you're going to do some off-road.

As long as you don't fit 3 tonnes of armour, but that's not likely is it

Yeah, the first thing my former partner from Afghanistan sent me was a link to a company that would up-armor it for me. But no thanks.

Where I live, the deer are thick as fleas; some kind of brush guard is mandatory, if you love your car. Otherwise, it's typical to either total or have to rebuild a vehicle at least once in its life.

I'm trying to keep the vehicle to a manageable height; some underside armor, rock sliders and a winch, along with better tires, is what I'm thinking. I saw a cool YouTube video on how to raise your spare tire. I have a couple hundred feet of chromoly tubing in my shop (I used to build antique airplanes) and will do this first thing.

 

[120mm]

I've moved news about my trek to this thread:

http://www.landcruiserclub.net/foru...ing-mind-quot-trek-thread?p=415203#post415203

 

[Chris]

Lifting the spare tyre is a neat trick. seen that video. I was going to do that but now I have a sub tank fitted above it. I ended up with the wheel mounted ion a carrier on the back. You can squeeze a 35" tyre under there but without shifting and lifting it, it looks ridiculous and would certainly catch on things.

Deer thick as fleas. Sounds good and some hunting in Texas. I'll grab me coat and a rifle.....