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RJ70 Build Thread.

Ben Aug 29, 2016

  1. Paddler Ed

    Paddler Ed Well-Known Member I am in australia

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    We have a couple of BJ70 and RJ70's around here, about the same as the 73/4, but from what I've heard the 73/4 became comp trucks quite often.
     
  2. Ben

    Ben Well-Known Member Guru I am in australia

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    A little update.....................

    I decided I needed to swap the perspex covers on the instrument clusters around as the new one I acquired was quite scratched.

    IMG_3623_zpsgimxmzom.jpg

    They are very similar but they both red line at different RPM's and the speedo's go up to different top speeds. :think:

    IMG_3624_zpsoxp1zoxg.jpg

    IMG_3625_zps2i7sikwq.jpg

    IMG_3626_zpsqr54unkg.jpg

    So with this new one my red line has increased from 4500 to 6000 RPM. :icon-twisted:

    And my top speed has dropped from 180kmh to 160kmh, which is more than enough and by loosing that 20kmh its made more space between the numbers which should make it a bit easier to read maybe. :think:

    IMG_3627_zpsykmqynhd.jpg

    That bolted in perfectly and looks great! :dance:

    IMG_3628_zpseik8zywy.jpg

    IMG_3629_zpsrdtehitx.jpg

    I paid for the most expensive part of the whole build this week, the engine conversion kit. :icon-cool:

    IMG_3636_zpsocauglsb.jpg

    I've been trying to sell the alluminium roll cage and soft top on Gumtree for a few months as I dont need them.

    Then this week I got a call from a chap who originally owned and resprayed RJ 8 years ago, who had seen my add on Gumtree. :icon-biggrin:

    He sent me some photos...................

    1 before the respray.

    IMG_3599_zpsiksdjnah.jpg

    And 1 with it in the blue before the flames went on. He actually said he preferred it without the flames. :icon-biggrin:

    IMG_3600_zpst8fkyefa.jpg

    Off to Melbourne over the next few weeks to go shopping for the build! :dance:
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2016
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  3. clivehorridge

    clivehorridge Well-Known Member Supporter Guru I am in romania

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    I must say I agree with him Ben!

    Love the truck though, whatever the colour is, and the interior looks 100% better already :thumbup:
     
  4. doyle61

    doyle61 Active Member I am in ireland

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    Ye That dash looks the part now:cool:. Have to agree with the lads, nice colour but imo flames just don't suit a landcruiser
     
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  5. Ben

    Ben Well-Known Member Guru I am in australia

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    Thanks guys. :thumbup:

    Just back from a weekend in Melbourne and I managed to pick up a few bits for the build! :dance:

    I saw my old boss at Piranha Off Road and he kindly donated some bits for the build. :icon-cool:

    Got something every 70 should have, a Doug's Tub to keep everything neat in the badly designed glove box.

    IMG_3711_zpst8tsgdqm.jpg

    IMG_3712_zpsmnrhr2gi.jpg

    IMG_3713_zpsn8ei7f2n.jpg

    IMG_3715_zpsgjf8vn33.jpg

    IMG_3716_zpsbq5grkqy.jpg

    IMG_3717_zps1inysm8e.jpg

    He also gave me a plain battery tray with top mount and J bolts, as I'm not sure exactly where in the engine bay I will put the battery yet, so with a blank tray I can weld some mounts on and then just get the whole thing re-electroplated. :icon-cool:

    IMG_3710_zpsktqcjnq4.jpg

    I took a few parts down with me as I hoped the wreckers yard would have what I need but they didnt. :doh:

    I need a pair of sun visors (like the one below which is out of LJ), a stereo surround that hasnt been butchered for a double din one and a fuse box cover (like the one below which is out of LJ). :think:

    IMG_3714_zpsbcoucqet.jpg

    Their all just standard 70 series parts so they shouldnt be too hard to find in Australia, its not like their Bundera specific or anything. :pray:

    Hopefully the engine conversion kit will arrive this week! :icon-twisted:
     
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  6. Ben

    Ben Well-Known Member Guru I am in australia

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    It arrived! :banana-dance::banana-dreads::banana-fingers::banana-guitar::banana-linedance::banana-rainbow::banana-skier:

    Excellent service from KS Racing in Thailand! :clap:

    Great communication and it arrived very quickly! :text-bravo:

    IMG_3719_zpst9lspyvt.jpg

    It looks to be pretty good quality too. The clutch is an Aisin one. :icon-biggrin:

    IMG_3720_zpszxzxuw5l.jpg

    IMG_3721_zps5snihrmx.jpg

    And the bearings are Koyo ones.

    IMG_3722_zpsihcwhl7v.jpg

    Cant wait to get the V8 fitted now! :character-beavisbu:
     
  7. Ben

    Ben Well-Known Member Guru I am in australia

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    I got my portable aircon unit setup in the garage this week, so work can continue on RJ, no matter how hot it is outside. :icon-cool:

    IMG_3777_zpsyxhzrylx.jpg

    I did a tiny bit more work on RJ's rear bar, got it outside and smoothed some of the welds down.

    IMG_3781_zpsqwyzcwm8.jpg

    And then re-fitted it.

    IMG_3782_zpsg3s1vts0.jpg

    IMG_3783_zpsynsu5eoz.jpg

    I've decided to put the rear bar and bullbar on hold for now and concentrate on the engine conversion instead.

    I needed to turn RJ around ready to drop the new engine in, so for the first time in 8 months RJ saw sunlight again.

    IMG_3791_zpsalkctehf.jpg

    IMG_3796_zpsbqsjqxet.jpg

    IMG_3797_zpsijyvgkrq.jpg

    Getting it out was easy as the driveway slopes down to the road, but I knew getting it turned around and back in wouldnt be as easy.

    But thankfully I had LJ on hand with the tricked up Warn 8274 on the front. :icon-twisted:

    IMG_3802_zpsomvgtac1.jpg

    Ran the winch rope through a snatch block off the back of the Astra.

    IMG_3800_zpslewgzlxi.jpg

    IMG_3801_zpsmlgpdqcr.jpg

    The Mrs jumped in and steered for me.

    IMG_3804_zps0aum6f5x.jpg

    IMG_3805_zps2urcxqjm.jpg

    IMG_3806_zpsmilmm3ba.jpg

    Attached the hook to the front of the chassis and winched RJ in the rest of the way.

    IMG_3807_zps0ltlhefg.jpg

    IMG_3808_zpswlqimqpa.jpg

    The next day I pushed RJ back outside so I could de-grease the engine bay.

    IMG_3834_zpsbxadijpn.jpg

    IMG_3835_zps1fcys0tn.jpg

    With a bit of space in the garage with RJ outside, I removed the engine from the stand.

    IMG_3836_zpsfoqaqhnv.jpg

    IMG_3837_zpsf2ofsksr.jpg

    IMG_3838_zpssqgi6dsg.jpg

    With RJ now nice and dry from being in the sun all day.

    IMG_3862_zpsedbarqqm.jpg

    IMG_3863_zpszckepqgl.jpg

    I could winch it back in.

    IMG_3864_zpsyzv7ihts.jpg

    I stripped some more off the front of the car to make room for the engine.

    IMG_3874_zps9cd2t2sc.jpg

    Then got to work on the engine conversion.

    IMG_3839_zpsv2yovs4q.jpg

    I'm not sure why but the Aisin clutch had been removed from its box, the box cut up and reassembled inside out and the clutch then put back in it. :?

    Its almost like KS Racing didnt want me knowing which clutch disc it is. :think:

    IMG_3840_zpsysobbsyh.jpg

    IMG_3841_zpsgawrd8jy.jpg

    IMG_3842_zpskimes16o.jpg

    IMG_3843_zpsojsoccdg.jpg

    Anyway.............................

    I needed to remove the ring gear and attach it to the new flywheel.

    IMG_3845_zpsuobrbqd2.jpg

    I just needed to carefully cut through all the welds with a thin disc in the grinder.

    IMG_3846_zpsa3oqhtw6.jpg

    With the ring gear in the vice I could then carefully hammer out the center.

    IMG_3868_zpscpnroop1.jpg

    IMG_3869_zpszlyqslsj.jpg

    I then put the ring gear in the oven for 20 minutes.

    IMG_3870_zpsttu5uimu.jpg

    And the flywheel in the freezer.

    IMG_3871_zpsmgsnppvo.jpg

    The ring gear almost dropped straight onto the flywheel, but it did need a few taps with a copper mallet.

    IMG_3872_zpsqxvughcz.jpg

    IMG_3873_zpskyobitej.jpg

    I decided to put a few neat little TIG welds on just to make sure the ring gear cant slip or come loose.

    IMG_3878_zpstetp3vsn.jpg

    IMG_3880_zps84ukgbcv.jpg

    IMG_3881_zpsle8p9anw.jpg

    I fitted the Koyo bearing in the end of the crank.

    IMG_3882_zpsmfye9uwe.jpg

    IMG_3884_zpshpofokvj.jpg

    I fitted the clutch fork, thrust bearing, slave cylinder and alluminium adapter on the end of the input shaft on the gearbox.

    IMG_3885_zps2yzmpkup.jpg

    IMG_3886_zpsljtpfww8.jpg

    IMG_3887_zpsory0j8md.jpg

    I fitted the flywheel and thread locked and torqued all the bolts up.

    IMG_3889_zpswn4jxjuj.jpg

    IMG_3890_zpsqzzll93v.jpg

    My clutch tool came in handy next fitting the clutch.

    IMG_3891_zpso9zmexqz.jpg

    IMG_3892_zpsba2pkjcj.jpg

    IMG_3893_zps8mr3p8ze.jpg

    I then got the gearbox bolted to the engine.

    IMG_3894_zpseh09urae.jpg

    IMG_3895_zpsh7xddjki.jpg

    IMG_3896_zpspmxw3vzs.jpg

    I dont particularly like how close the clutch slave cylinder is to the exhaust, but it should be ok.

    IMG_3897_zps1qiate7g.jpg

    Then it was time to lift the engine in.

    IMG_3899_zps7db1vbk7.jpg

    IMG_3900_zpsn5d7ivy2.jpg

    I used some steel angle to protect the vulnerable power steering pipes.

    IMG_3901_zpslphjaenw.jpg

    IMG_3902_zpstah8u5ac.jpg

    IMG_3904_zps4ignmnch.jpg

    IMG_3905_zpsdjxsolfo.jpg

    IMG_3906_zpsx9zb1f4c.jpg

    IMG_3907_zpsfyw85oea.jpg

    So the engine is now sat roughly in place, with the gearbox bolted in position on the cross member.

    IMG_3913_zpsws9vh3db.jpg

    IMG_3914_zpsjpj9k52s.jpg

    IMG_3915_zps0g8itma1.jpg

    I knew it would be tight but its a bit tighter than I would have liked. :think:

    The oil filter is quite tight, but I'm not too worried as I might just buy or make an adapter to remote mount it.

    IMG_3908_zpsxvkyyjhw.jpg

    But the power steering pump is far too close to the steering box. Lifting the front of the engine up does improve things but then the back of the engine is too close to the top of the firewall. :doh:

    IMG_3909_zpsi4oz9gsw.jpg

    Ideally I would move the whole engine and gearbox forwards 20-30mm, but looking at how the cross member mounts, I dont think that will be easy without welding the chassis, which I'm trying to avoid. :think:

    Next step is to look at the engine mounts and notching the sump around the front diff pumpkin. :icon-smile:

    Huge thanks to Ryan for helping me and advising me on this conversion. :clap:

    This link he sent me for a copy of the factory service manual has proven invaluable.

    http://lexus-doc.ru/RepairManual1991.php

    Another thing I'm looking at doing is changing the front indicators for clear lenses, which I think would look a lot more modern. :think:

    IMG_3833_zps1tg121gz.jpg

    IMG_3832_zpsa4brznjo.jpg

    I havent found any yet but I will keep looking. :icon-smile:
     
    Last edited: Dec 18, 2016
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  8. AndyCook

    AndyCook Well-Known Member I am in scotland

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    Wow, impressive work ! Not sure I could tackle an engine swap.
    Hope you figure out the clearance issues with steering box
     
  9. Gary820

    Gary820 Well-Known Member I am in great_britain

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    Looking good Ben, loads of space in there, should see how close some stuff is on the v8's etc I work on.
     
  10. Paddler Ed

    Paddler Ed Well-Known Member I am in australia

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    I've got the exhaust on my 4Runner quite close to the slave cylinder as well... and I've got heat issues. Don't forget that you can't change to DOT4 fluid to get a higher boiling point.

    I'm looking at a braided/insulated clutch line and then an idea of a heat shield like the one used a manual RA Rodeo V6 as they have a similar problem - I just spent 20 minutes on the phone to a mate who works in a brake and clutch place talking about this problem. He says that the heat issue is a common one on Commodores and Astras, as well as a few other things as they have the slave mounted a bit more inboard, but Isuzu/GM engineers picked up the issue with the RA Rodeo V6 and made the little shield that bolts on.
     
  11. StarCruiser

    StarCruiser Well-Known Member I am in uk

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    Lookin' good Ben. Some good progress being made there. Shouldn't be too tricky for you to fab some sort of heat shield to bolt on. Also, is it possible to move the PS pump to the other side? Someone will have done whatever is needed.
     
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  12. clivehorridge

    clivehorridge Well-Known Member Supporter Guru I am in romania

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    A nice stage of progress Ben, at least it's in,


    for the moment.... :lol:
     
  13. Ako

    Ako New Member I am in australia

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    Looking good Ben.

    Did you think any more about mounting the power steering pump when the A/C compressor used to sit?

    Or maybe just raising the pump up with an offset bracket?

    Sure you will get it all sorted shortly... ;)
     
  14. Ben

    Ben Well-Known Member Guru I am in australia

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    Thanks guys. :thumbup:

    Work is progressing well, currently modifying a spare gearbox cross member to shift the whole lot 15mm forwards. Not sure if that will be enough, but fingers crossed, as to get more than that would probably involve designing and making a new cross member from scratch. :think:

    I will make an aluminium heat shield for the clutch slave cylinder, great idea guys. :icon-wink:

    I'm going to see how much clearance I've gained once the cross member has been modified, if that's not enough then I will look at moving the power steering pump. :icon-biggrin:

    Will try and get an update up over the next few days showing the progress and the new bits that I've just had delivered. :thumbup:
     
  15. StarCruiser

    StarCruiser Well-Known Member I am in uk

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    Sounds like Father Christmas has come early there Ben…:lol:
     
  16. Ako

    Ako New Member I am in australia

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    That repair manual link you posted is very helpful. Just downloaded all the engine and wiring sections.

    Merged the small sub-sections into larger files and now I'm good to go. :tongueout:
     
  17. Graham

    Graham Well-Known Member I am in uk

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    How about a remote mounted electric hydraulic pump for the steering?
    Many vehicles have electric for power steering.
     
  18. Ben

    Ben Well-Known Member Guru I am in australia

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    Thanks guys. :icon-biggrin:

    Graham, I've worked out a way of making the standard pump work! ;)
     
  19. Ben

    Ben Well-Known Member Guru I am in australia

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    Update............................

    I worked out I could move the gearbox forwards by 15mm without altering the cross member too drastically.

    Got my spare cross member on the bench ready to be modified.

    IMG_3922_zpsxnvvhsmu.jpg

    Clamped it to the bench and prepared to weld some 6mm plate to it.

    IMG_3923_zpstjpyjpos.jpg

    IMG_3924_zpsf0taupwy.jpg

    IMG_3925_zpsuwim8sxd.jpg

    IMG_3926_zpsczbsp6jx.jpg

    IMG_3927_zps0c5w9dc1.jpg

    IMG_3928_zps8gjbi4pb.jpg

    IMG_3929_zps9i5jq6hk.jpg

    TIG welded it together.

    IMG_3930_zpsn2yubbw6.jpg

    Drilled some new mounting holes 15mm further in.

    IMG_3933_zpsqfwdxn31.jpg

    IMG_3934_zpsfqgieyhg.jpg

    Into the vice next to elongate the holes with the die grinder.

    IMG_3936_zps0wqtvqio.jpg

    IMG_3937_zpsqx0soxgr.jpg

    The new creeper has proven invaluable for working under RJ. :clap:

    Bolted the cross member on.

    (These bolts will all have thick 5mm washers under them which I will weld to the cross member.)

    IMG_3967_zpsl9t96a3x.jpg

    IMG_3968_zpswyvdgvkh.jpg

    Thats as far as I got on the cross member.

    I had some deliveries. :dance:

    New timing belt.

    IMG_3948_zpszesa5699.jpg

    IMG_3949_zps6bn3bd4m.jpg

    As I need to alter the pipework to move the clutch slave cylinder from the passenger side to drivers side, I bought a pipe bender, flaring tool and cutter.

    IMG_3950_zpsaujamiao.jpg

    IMG_3951_zpsqghip6hh.jpg

    I pulled the power steering pump off.

    IMG_3941_zpsecg6jn7r.jpg

    I had actually broken one of the hoses off for the idle up control valve as it was hitting the steering box. :doh:

    Fortunately it isnt really needed and can cause problems if/when they fail as it pumps power steering fluid into the air intake, so I needed to remove it and blank it off.

    IMG_3952_zps6ye4221k.jpg

    IMG_3953_zpslmnrpihb.jpg

    Broken the plastic top off.

    IMG_3954_zpsetcvoszx.jpg

    Which left me this bit to weld up.

    IMG_3955_zpsyl93s0ey.jpg

    Cut it down.

    IMG_3956_zpsqtx6zrfx.jpg

    Cleaned it up.

    IMG_3957_zpsvmtvjt0i.jpg

    And welded the hole up.

    IMG_3958_zpsh1w0xicu.jpg

    IMG_3959_zpszhkrnovz.jpg

    IMG_3960_zps48zfe0kk.jpg

    Screwed it back in.

    IMG_3961_zpsgzododef.jpg

    IMG_3962_zpsa1mrokh6.jpg

    Next I had a look at the radiator/fan situation to make sure it would all fit in the space left in front of the engine.

    Bolted the standard 1UZ viscous fan back on.

    IMG_3965_zpsxmmapdwu.jpg

    IMG_3963_zpsvufmppea.jpg

    RJ came with an alluminium radiator which I'm hoping to use as I can easily weld it to modify it.

    IMG_3964_zpsusklmded.jpg

    Unbolted all these bits.

    IMG_3966_zpsvhh0dxca.jpg

    Sat the rad in place.

    IMG_3969_zpspqpykfks.jpg

    IMG_3970_zpsgg1rvtog.jpg

    The fan was a bit too close though really. :doh:

    IMG_3971_zpsmztleybk.jpg

    IMG_3972_zpsbqvlh7ty.jpg

    Not a problem though, I had a cunning plan! To use a thinner fan off a 2lt which also had much less off set.

    (Anyone spot the obvious problem in the pic below?)

    IMG_3973_zpsokclfzf1.jpg

    It bolted on perfectly.

    IMG_3974_zpsnjll6t8v.jpg

    IMG_3975_zps81fq4pds.jpg

    And provided much more clearance against the rad.

    IMG_3975_zps81fq4pds.jpg

    IMG_3977_zpsctiamx8r.jpg

    Engine mounts next....................................

    Now I was reasonably happy with the position of the engine it was time to look at engine mounts.

    My aim was to try and mount the engine using the standard 2lt/22r rubber engine mounts and without welding/altering the chassis, so fully bolt on. :ugeek:

    One thing that needed consideration was the engine oil dip stick running right through where the engine mount would normally sit on the chassis.

    IMG_3978_zpsl8aur8yf.jpg

    IMG_3979_zpsl94sbqzi.jpg

    Pulled it off.

    IMG_3980_zpszavhjfxj.jpg

    Removed a wheel to give me slightly better access to the mount.

    IMG_3981_zpsioxqvtwh.jpg

    IMG_3982_zpsfyyjjajq.jpg

    Still pretty buried though which made this job a lot more difficult than it would have been with clear access.

    I could have removed the exhaust manifold which would have helped, but I wanted to make sure the mount I was going to fit would also clear the manifold.

    IMG_3983_zps14lnytsc.jpg

    I thought I had enough steel to make the mounts with but I didnt. :doh:

    Being Christmas eve and a Saturday I was pretty limited with what steel I could get, so in the end I bought the biggest section I could from Bunnings, got some 7mm thick galvanised lintel.

    IMG_3984_zpsddgs2rjw.jpg

    IMG_3985_zpsdeu0opsw.jpg

    Cut a piece to length to bolt to the chassis.

    IMG_3986_zps1wh8aiml.jpg

    Drilled it.

    IMG_3987_zpsiagyr35c.jpg

    IMG_3988_zpskbm2nb4r.jpg

    Cut and drilled another piece to bolt to the engine.

    IMG_3989_zpsvz3zx7fy.jpg

    I now just needed to bolt these bits together.

    IMG_3990_zpsaxfloqha.jpg

    Like this.

    IMG_3991_zpsicoplzbt.jpg

    IMG_3992_zps7kuqgonf.jpg

    Had to drill a hole through the engine plate for the nut on the engine mount to go through because the engine mount was just too tight with the rubber mount and 2 pieces of 7mm plate.

    IMG_3993_zpszxpyd7wj.jpg

    I managed to get a couple of tacks on it with it bolted to the engine, then I pulled it off ready to fully weld it.

    Added another piece of 6mm flat to brace it.

    IMG_3997_zpsrkb8ey6o.jpg

    Fully welded it top and bottom.

    IMG_3998_zps6zmgesqq.jpg

    So I needed 4 fixings in total, 2 to fix the adapter plate to the chassis using the original 2 engine mount holes in the chassis, then 2 more to fix the rubber engine mount to the adapter plate in its new position.

    One of these bolts would be behind the center of the rubber engine mount, so I needed to weld a threaded stud to the adapter plate without a bolt head sticking up on the other side. :ugeek:

    IMG_4002_zpsywarkoil.jpg

    IMG_4007_zpsylyrsbrj.jpg

    IMG_4008_zpsvs2njz0d.jpg

    IMG_4009_zpsiedv12gs.jpg

    So the adapter plate bolts to the standard chassis mount first.

    IMG_4010_zpsabownwmm.jpg

    IMG_4011_zpsttuz4oph.jpg

    Then these 2 get bolted together.

    IMG_4013_zps6mo0ocsy.jpg

    IMG_4014_zps3l3do4j3.jpg

    IMG_4015_zpse4vvzfr3.jpg

    Slid in place and bolted on.

    IMG_4018_zpsrcrom77j.jpg

    IMG_4019_zpsv2ttwk5d.jpg

    IMG_4023_zps5xvlzeug.jpg

    IMG_4024_zpsbyeibv5l.jpg

    Here you can see where one of the bolts for the new engine mount position goes. It goes through a 30mm hole in the center of the original engine chassis mount, into which I found a 30mm x 3mm thick washer to act as a crush tube in affect, with a big thick square washer on top of that, followed by the nut. :icon-biggrin:

    IMG_4033_zps3c4izlhe.jpg

    That was that side done and I was even able to refit the dip stick.

    IMG_4026_zpsvnf5zlhf.jpg

    IMG_4025_zps7nrz00g5.jpg

    Other side next that would prove to be much harder as although the engine is actually spaced further from this chassis rail giving more space, the steering box is in the way meaning most of the work had to be done from below.

    IMG_4027_zpsldmpfodp.jpg

    Sat the standard mount in position to see how far out the chassis mounts were, to the engine mounts.

    IMG_4028_zpsby3veuj5.jpg

    IMG_4029_zpsmqy4zjy1.jpg

    IMG_4030_zpsi8pyjizg.jpg

    Marked out some more of the galvanized flat bar.

    IMG_4034_zpsq4kigtok.jpg

    IMG_4035_zpseclzc9bj.jpg

    Drilled the 10mm holes.

    IMG_4036_zpsosbcj9or.jpg

    IMG_4037_zpspgbopkig.jpg

    Cut it to length.

    IMG_4044_zpsntqg85gt.jpg

    Drilled the second plate.

    IMG_4045_zpsi8zhkbd2.jpg

    Cut the corners off and welded the threaded M10 stud in.

    IMG_4046_zpsmxlmgrvt.jpg

    IMG_4047_zpsvkzjzkjo.jpg

    Bolted it all in position.

    IMG_4050_zpsmhr4dqa6.jpg

    IMG_4049_zpsnm6hk4ia.jpg

    What followed next was pretty painful! :icon-cry:

    Lying on my back trying to tack weld some metal to the horrible galvanized metal that kept spitting at me, resulted in a big molten metal hot rock finding its way through my welding jacket, down my arm and then getting trapped in my jacket against my elbow! :angry-screaming:

    But I did manage to get some pretty shit looking tack welds that miraculously held while I unbolted it all.

    IMG_4051_zpsb9z2rtp6.jpg

    IMG_4053_zpscimnwf3k.jpg

    Cut some 6mm flat, welded it in and gave it a coat of paint.

    IMG_4055_zps6eqdgqmq.jpg

    IMG_4056_zps5jty6bo7.jpg

    IMG_4057_zpsfqzmpgrp.jpg

    IMG_4058_zpsb8adoodc.jpg

    IMG_4059_zps31eebip8.jpg

    Bolted the rubber mount on.

    IMG_4060_zpsk20lkfi6.jpg

    IMG_4061_zpsiphgc4fz.jpg

    IMG_4062_zpsctxrsv7z.jpg

    Bolted it in position.

    IMG_4065_zpsgxqzgppd.jpg

    Both done! :dance:

    IMG_4066_zpswid0qxfu.jpg

    Again, a shout out to this little baby, its been so handy! :clap:

    IMG_4067_zpsepsmi4rc.jpg

    Back to the engine and I bolted the power steering pump back on, which now clears fine and has plenty of room around it after pushing the engine forwards that 15mm.

    IMG_4068_zpsueac7fui.jpg

    IMG_4069_zps5ia4dal9.jpg

    IMG_4070_zpswlwglq6u.jpg

    Sump next....................

    I got the front of the chassis supported on my big axle stands so it was nice and high off the ground.

    thumb_IMG_4109_1024_zps4vv2em5p.jpg

    I could then remove the front springs and jack the diff up to see how much needed cutting off the sump for it to clear.

    thumb_IMG_4110_1024_zpsfutyayxr.jpg

    Marked roughly what needed cutting off.

    thumb_IMG_4113_1024_zpskyudwnmo.jpg

    Removed the sump then drained the last bit of oil out of it.

    thumb_IMG_4114_1024_zps3kdyrxhz.jpg

    Cleaned it inside and out and got it on the bench ready for surgery.

    thumb_IMG_4115_1024_zpss1wa6gjw.jpg

    The underside is sadly a bit scratched from where I had to drag the Lexus onto the trailer (damn coil overs being set so low). :thumbdown:

    thumb_IMG_4116_1024_zpsdqnvcb54.jpg

    thumb_IMG_4117_1024_zpsyyhqljdn.jpg

    A bit more measuring and checking.

    thumb_IMG_4120_1024_zpsom0ccub1.jpg

    thumb_IMG_4121_1024_zpsirosfhq8.jpg

    thumb_IMG_4122_1024_zpsufzitavp.jpg

    The bump stops would need spacing down to prevent the sump hitting the diff pumpkin.

    thumb_IMG_4123_1024_zpso3ulpeme.jpg

    But most worrying, it looked like the front prop/drive shaft would be really bloody close to the slave cylinder on the bell housing. :doh:

    I bolted a shaft on to check.

    thumb_IMG_4136_1024_zpsg4ngwwn7.jpg

    Yes really bloody close! Too close! :icon-cry:

    thumb_IMG_4137_1024_zps6u9dol28.jpg

    thumb_IMG_4142_1024_zpsnwg8w9ku.jpg

    The slave cylinder is in perfect alignment with the prop shaft. :crazy:

    thumb_IMG_4151_1024_zps7yaasxo3.jpg

    thumb_IMG_4152_1024_zpsijqz1f3h.jpg

    I believe this is a fault with the design of the KS Racing bell housing. I think the Dellows bell housing comes with the option of having the slave cylinder on the left or right. If it had been on the other side then this wouldn't be an issue, but the KS Racing one only comes on that side. :thumbdown:

    There are a few options I could do to fix the situation, one is to cut that big chunk of alluminium off the side of the bell housing and try and fit a hydraulic throw out bearing instead and this is something I may well end up doing. :think:

    For now I'm going to carry on with the rest of the build and com back to it.

    Made a cardboard template for the notch in the sump.

    thumb_IMG_4124_1024_zpskeck24en.jpg

    thumb_IMG_4125_1024_zpsxeedmrfz.jpg

    Marked the sump.

    thumb_IMG_4127_1024_zpserqigdgb.jpg

    thumb_IMG_4128_1024_zpsv33kiejk.jpg

    thumb_IMG_4129_1024_zps0gb6p2vk.jpg

    Cut the sump.

    thumb_IMG_4131_1024_zpsfg2ffhqz.jpg

    thumb_IMG_4132_1024_zpse02ykich.jpg

    Test fitted it.

    thumb_IMG_4135_1024_zps0lmaasti.jpg

    Cut a piece of 2mm steel to cap the cut off of with.

    thumb_IMG_4155_1024_zpslvqtjz4m.jpg

    thumb_IMG_4156_1024_zpsf90ad5ao.jpg

    Got a few tacks on it, then fully welded it.

    thumb_IMG_4158_1024_zpsjlqk1n2y.jpg

    Then flipped it over and ran another seem of weld around the inside.

    thumb_IMG_4164_1024_zpsr47cgwwm.jpg

    thumb_IMG_4165_1024_zpsgvwlbynt.jpg

    thumb_IMG_4166_1024_zpsfv0qu2yn.jpg

    Cut out the drain plug and boss from the cut out bit of sump.

    thumb_IMG_4157_1024_zpskye3e1cm.jpg

    It had been in the wrong place anyway as it was above the front diff previously, I moved to the other end where the oil will have a clear path down to a drain tub.

    Drilled it out with a step drill.

    thumb_IMG_4167_1024_zpsgzfi9jpq.jpg

    Clamped the boss in position.

    thumb_IMG_4168_1024_zpsk1cjygaw.jpg

    Welded it on.

    thumb_IMG_4169_1024_zpskvmkmdlr.jpg

    Gave the whole sump a good clean followed by a few coats of satin black enamel.

    thumb_IMG_4173_1024_zpsec2uftn0.jpg

    thumb_IMG_4178_1024_zpsgdrivzer.jpg

    thumb_IMG_4179_1024_zps0vdncyxu.jpg

    Re-fitted it.

    thumb_IMG_4180_1024_zps6xnn9dzp.jpg

    thumb_IMG_4181_1024_zpsbebdgtoo.jpg

    thumb_IMG_4182_1024_zpsnusbjir2.jpg

    And thats where I'm up to. Lots more to do, but I'm making progress. :thumbup:
     
  20. Ben

    Ben Well-Known Member Guru I am in australia

    5,392
    247
    63
    Map
    Update............................

    I worked out I could move the gearbox forwards by 15mm without altering the cross member too drastically.

    Got my spare cross member on the bench ready to be modified.

    IMG_3922_zpsxnvvhsmu.jpg

    Clamped it to the bench and prepared to weld some 6mm plate to it.

    IMG_3923_zpstjpyjpos.jpg

    IMG_3924_zpsf0taupwy.jpg

    IMG_3925_zpsuwim8sxd.jpg

    IMG_3926_zpsczbsp6jx.jpg

    To weld the other side I clamped a piece of 20mm thick steel plate underneath as I couldnt use the bench top as all the other corners of the top were taken up with the vices and guillotine.

    IMG_3927_zps0c5w9dc1.jpg

    IMG_3928_zps8gjbi4pb.jpg

    IMG_3929_zps9i5jq6hk.jpg

    TIG welded it together.

    IMG_3930_zpsn2yubbw6.jpg

    Drilled some new mounting holes 15mm further in.

    IMG_3933_zpsqfwdxn31.jpg

    IMG_3934_zpsfqgieyhg.jpg

    Into the vice next to elongate the holes with the die grinder.

    IMG_3936_zps0wqtvqio.jpg

    IMG_3937_zpsqx0soxgr.jpg

    The new creeper has proven invaluable for working under RJ. :clap:

    IMG_3938_zpsdbbadci1.jpg

    Bolted the cross member on.

    (These bolts will all have thick 5mm washers under them which I will weld to the cross member.)

    IMG_3967_zpsl9t96a3x.jpg

    IMG_3968_zpswyvdgvkh.jpg

    Thats as far as I got on the cross member.

    I had some deliveries. :dance:

    New timing belt.

    IMG_3948_zpszesa5699.jpg

    IMG_3949_zps6bn3bd4m.jpg

    As I need to alter the pipework to move the clutch slave cylinder from the passenger side to drivers side, I bought a pipe bender, flaring tool and cutter.

    IMG_3950_zpsaujamiao.jpg

    IMG_3951_zpsqghip6hh.jpg

    I pulled the power steering pump off.

    IMG_3941_zpsecg6jn7r.jpg

    I had actually broken one of the hoses off for the idle up control valve as it was hitting the steering box. :doh:

    Fortunately it isnt really needed and can cause problems if/when they fail as it pumps power steering fluid into the air intake, so I needed to remove it and blank it off.

    IMG_3952_zps6ye4221k.jpg

    IMG_3953_zpslmnrpihb.jpg

    Broke the plastic top off.

    IMG_3954_zpsetcvoszx.jpg

    Which left me this bit to weld up.

    IMG_3955_zpsyl93s0ey.jpg

    Cut it down.

    IMG_3956_zpsqtx6zrfx.jpg

    Cleaned it up.

    IMG_3957_zpsvmtvjt0i.jpg

    And welded the hole up.

    IMG_3958_zpsh1w0xicu.jpg

    IMG_3959_zpszhkrnovz.jpg

    IMG_3960_zps48zfe0kk.jpg

    Screwed it back in.

    IMG_3961_zpsgzododef.jpg

    IMG_3962_zpsa1mrokh6.jpg

    Next I had a look at the radiator/fan situation to make sure it would all fit in the space left in front of the engine.

    Bolted the standard 1UZ viscous fan back on.

    IMG_3965_zpsxmmapdwu.jpg

    IMG_3963_zpsvufmppea.jpg

    RJ came with an alluminium radiator which I'm hoping to use as I can easily weld it to modify it.

    IMG_3964_zpsusklmded.jpg

    Unbolted all these bits.

    IMG_3966_zpsvhh0dxca.jpg

    Sat the rad in place.

    IMG_3969_zpspqpykfks.jpg

    IMG_3970_zpsgg1rvtog.jpg

    The fan was a bit too close though really. :doh:

    IMG_3971_zpsmztleybk.jpg

    IMG_3972_zpsbqvlh7ty.jpg

    Not a problem though, I had a cunning plan! To use a thinner fan off a 2lt which also had much less off set.

    (Anyone spot the obvious problem in the pic below?)

    IMG_3973_zpsokclfzf1.jpg

    It bolted on perfectly.

    IMG_3974_zpsnjll6t8v.jpg

    IMG_3975_zps81fq4pds.jpg

    And provided much more clearance against the rad.

    IMG_3977_zpsctiamx8r.jpg

    Engine mounts next....................................

    Now I was reasonably happy with the position of the engine it was time to look at engine mounts.

    My aim was to try and mount the engine using the standard 2lt/22r rubber engine mounts and without welding/altering the chassis, so fully bolt on. :ugeek:

    One thing that needed consideration was the engine oil dip stick running right through where the engine mount would normally sit on the chassis.

    IMG_3978_zpsl8aur8yf.jpg

    IMG_3979_zpsl94sbqzi.jpg

    Pulled it off.

    IMG_3980_zpszavhjfxj.jpg

    Removed a wheel to give me slightly better access to the mount.

    IMG_3981_zpsioxqvtwh.jpg

    IMG_3982_zpsfyyjjajq.jpg

    Still pretty buried though which made this job a lot more difficult than it would have been with clear access.

    I could have removed the exhaust manifold which would have helped, but I wanted to make sure the mount I was going to fit would also clear the manifold.

    IMG_3983_zps14lnytsc.jpg

    I thought I had enough steel to make the mounts with but I didnt. :doh:

    Being Christmas eve and a Saturday I was pretty limited with what steel I could get, so in the end I bought the biggest section I could from Bunnings, got some 7mm thick galvanised lintel.

    IMG_3984_zpsddgs2rjw.jpg

    IMG_3985_zpsdeu0opsw.jpg

    Cut a piece to length to bolt to the chassis.

    IMG_3986_zps1wh8aiml.jpg

    Drilled it.

    IMG_3987_zpsiagyr35c.jpg

    IMG_3988_zpskbm2nb4r.jpg

    Cut and drilled another piece to bolt to the engine.

    IMG_3989_zpsvz3zx7fy.jpg

    I now just needed to bolt these bits together.

    IMG_3990_zpsaxfloqha.jpg

    Like this.

    IMG_3991_zpsicoplzbt.jpg

    IMG_3992_zps7kuqgonf.jpg

    Had to drill a hole through the engine plate for the nut on the engine mount to go through because the engine mount was just too tight with the rubber mount and 2 pieces of 7mm plate.

    IMG_3993_zpszxpyd7wj.jpg

    I managed to get a couple of tacks on it with it bolted to the engine, then I pulled it off ready to fully weld it.

    Added another piece of 6mm flat to brace it.

    IMG_3997_zpsrkb8ey6o.jpg

    Fully welded it top and bottom.

    IMG_3998_zps6zmgesqq.jpg

    So I needed 4 fixings in total, 2 to fix the adapter plate to the chassis using the original 2 engine mount holes in the chassis, then 2 more to fix the rubber engine mount to the adapter plate in its new position.

    One of these bolts would be behind the center of the rubber engine mount, so I needed to weld a threaded stud to the adapter plate without a bolt head sticking up on the other side. :ugeek:

    IMG_4002_zpsywarkoil.jpg

    IMG_4007_zpsylyrsbrj.jpg

    IMG_4008_zpsvs2njz0d.jpg

    IMG_4009_zpsiedv12gs.jpg

    So the adapter plate bolts to the standard chassis mount first.

    IMG_4010_zpsabownwmm.jpg

    IMG_4011_zpsttuz4oph.jpg

    Then these 2 get bolted together.

    IMG_4013_zps6mo0ocsy.jpg

    IMG_4014_zps3l3do4j3.jpg

    IMG_4015_zpse4vvzfr3.jpg

    Slid in place and bolted on.

    IMG_4018_zpsrcrom77j.jpg

    IMG_4019_zpsv2ttwk5d.jpg

    IMG_4023_zps5xvlzeug.jpg

    IMG_4024_zpsbyeibv5l.jpg

    Here you can see where one of the bolts for the new engine mount position goes. It goes through a 30mm hole in the center of the original engine chassis mount, into which I found a 30mm x 3mm thick washer to act as a crush tube in affect, with a big thick square washer on top of that, followed by the nut. :icon-biggrin:

    IMG_4033_zps3c4izlhe.jpg

    That was that side done and I was even able to refit the dip stick.

    IMG_4026_zpsvnf5zlhf.jpg

    IMG_4025_zps7nrz00g5.jpg

    Other side next that would prove to be much harder as although the engine is actually spaced further from this chassis rail giving more space, the steering box is in the way meaning most of the work had to be done from below.

    IMG_4027_zpsldmpfodp.jpg

    Sat the standard mount in position to see how far out the chassis mounts were, to the engine mounts.

    IMG_4028_zpsby3veuj5.jpg

    IMG_4029_zpsmqy4zjy1.jpg

    IMG_4030_zpsi8pyjizg.jpg

    Marked out some more of the galvanized flat bar.

    IMG_4034_zpsq4kigtok.jpg

    IMG_4035_zpseclzc9bj.jpg

    Drilled the 10mm holes.

    IMG_4036_zpsosbcj9or.jpg

    IMG_4037_zpspgbopkig.jpg

    Cut it to length.

    IMG_4044_zpsntqg85gt.jpg

    Drilled the second plate.

    IMG_4045_zpsi8zhkbd2.jpg

    Cut the corners off and welded the threaded M10 stud in.

    IMG_4046_zpsmxlmgrvt.jpg

    IMG_4047_zpsvkzjzkjo.jpg

    Bolted it all in position.

    IMG_4050_zpsmhr4dqa6.jpg

    IMG_4049_zpsnm6hk4ia.jpg

    What followed next was pretty painful! :icon-cry:

    Lying on my back trying to tack weld some metal to the horrible galvanized metal that kept spitting at me, resulted in a big molten metal hot rock finding its way through my welding jacket, down my arm and then getting trapped in my jacket against my elbow! :angry-screaming:

    IMG_4078_zpsxntscxch.jpg


    IMG_4079_zpshujym6yw.jpg

    But I did manage to get some pretty shit looking tack welds that miraculously held while I unbolted it all.

    IMG_4051_zpsb9z2rtp6.jpg

    IMG_4053_zpscimnwf3k.jpg

    Cut some 6mm flat, welded it in and gave it a coat of paint.

    IMG_4055_zps6eqdgqmq.jpg

    IMG_4056_zps5jty6bo7.jpg

    IMG_4057_zpsfqzmpgrp.jpg

    IMG_4058_zpsb8adoodc.jpg

    IMG_4059_zps31eebip8.jpg

    Bolted the rubber mount on.

    IMG_4060_zpsk20lkfi6.jpg

    IMG_4061_zpsiphgc4fz.jpg

    IMG_4062_zpsctxrsv7z.jpg

    Bolted it in position.

    IMG_4065_zpsgxqzgppd.jpg

    Both done! :dance:

    IMG_4066_zpswid0qxfu.jpg

    Again, a shout out to this little baby, its been so handy! :clap:

    IMG_4067_zpsepsmi4rc.jpg

    Back to the engine and I bolted the power steering pump back on, which now clears fine and has plenty of room around it after pushing the engine forwards that 15mm.

    IMG_4068_zpsueac7fui.jpg

    IMG_4069_zps5ia4dal9.jpg

    IMG_4070_zpswlwglq6u.jpg

    Sump next....................

    I got the front of the chassis supported on my big axle stands so it was nice and high off the ground.

    thumb_IMG_4109_1024_zps4vv2em5p.jpg

    I could then remove the front springs and jack the diff up to see how much needed cutting off the sump for it to clear.

    thumb_IMG_4110_1024_zpsfutyayxr.jpg

    Marked roughly what needed cutting off.

    thumb_IMG_4113_1024_zpskyudwnmo.jpg

    Removed the sump then drained the last bit of oil out of it.

    thumb_IMG_4114_1024_zps3kdyrxhz.jpg

    Cleaned it inside and out and got it on the bench ready for surgery.

    thumb_IMG_4115_1024_zpss1wa6gjw.jpg

    The underside is sadly a bit scratched from where I had to drag the Lexus onto the trailer (damn coil overs being set so low). :thumbdown:

    thumb_IMG_4116_1024_zpsdqnvcb54.jpg

    thumb_IMG_4117_1024_zpsyyhqljdn.jpg

    A bit more measuring and checking.

    thumb_IMG_4120_1024_zpsom0ccub1.jpg

    thumb_IMG_4121_1024_zpsirosfhq8.jpg

    thumb_IMG_4122_1024_zpsufzitavp.jpg

    The bump stops would need spacing down to prevent the sump hitting the diff pumpkin.

    thumb_IMG_4123_1024_zpso3ulpeme.jpg

    But most worrying, it looked like the front prop/drive shaft would be really bloody close to the slave cylinder on the bell housing. :doh:

    I bolted a shaft on to check.

    thumb_IMG_4136_1024_zpsg4ngwwn7.jpg

    Yes really bloody close! Too close! :icon-cry:

    thumb_IMG_4137_1024_zps6u9dol28.jpg

    thumb_IMG_4142_1024_zpsnwg8w9ku.jpg

    The slave cylinder is in perfect alignment with the prop shaft. :crazy:

    thumb_IMG_4151_1024_zps7yaasxo3.jpg

    thumb_IMG_4152_1024_zpsijqz1f3h.jpg

    I believe this is a fault with the design of the KS Racing bell housing. I think the Dellows bell housing comes with the option of having the slave cylinder on the left or right. If it had been on the other side then this wouldn't be an issue, but the KS Racing one only comes on that side. :thumbdown:

    There are a few options I could do to fix the situation, one is to cut that big chunk of alluminium off the side of the bell housing and try and fit a hydraulic throw out bearing instead and this is something I may well end up doing. :think:

    For now I'm going to carry on with the rest of the build and com back to it.

    Made a cardboard template for the notch in the sump.

    thumb_IMG_4124_1024_zpskeck24en.jpg

    thumb_IMG_4125_1024_zpsxeedmrfz.jpg

    Marked the sump.

    thumb_IMG_4127_1024_zpserqigdgb.jpg

    thumb_IMG_4128_1024_zpsv33kiejk.jpg

    thumb_IMG_4129_1024_zps0gb6p2vk.jpg

    Cut the sump.

    thumb_IMG_4131_1024_zpsfg2ffhqz.jpg

    thumb_IMG_4132_1024_zpse02ykich.jpg

    Test fitted it.

    thumb_IMG_4135_1024_zps0lmaasti.jpg

    Cut a piece of 2mm steel to cap the cut off of with.

    thumb_IMG_4155_1024_zpslvqtjz4m.jpg

    thumb_IMG_4156_1024_zpsf90ad5ao.jpg

    Got a few tacks on it, then fully welded it.

    thumb_IMG_4158_1024_zpsjlqk1n2y.jpg

    Then flipped it over and ran another seem of weld around the inside.

    thumb_IMG_4164_1024_zpsr47cgwwm.jpg

    thumb_IMG_4165_1024_zpsgvwlbynt.jpg

    thumb_IMG_4166_1024_zpsfv0qu2yn.jpg

    Cut out the drain plug and boss from the cut out bit of sump.

    thumb_IMG_4157_1024_zpskye3e1cm.jpg

    It had been in the wrong place anyway as it was above the front diff previously, I moved to the other end where the oil will have a clear path down to a drain tub.

    Drilled it out with a step drill.

    thumb_IMG_4167_1024_zpsgzfi9jpq.jpg

    Clamped the boss in position.

    thumb_IMG_4168_1024_zpsk1cjygaw.jpg

    Welded it on.

    thumb_IMG_4169_1024_zpskvmkmdlr.jpg

    Gave the whole sump a good clean followed by a few coats of satin black enamel.

    thumb_IMG_4173_1024_zpsec2uftn0.jpg

    thumb_IMG_4178_1024_zpsgdrivzer.jpg

    thumb_IMG_4179_1024_zps0vdncyxu.jpg

    Re-fitted it.

    thumb_IMG_4180_1024_zps6xnn9dzp.jpg

    thumb_IMG_4181_1024_zpsbebdgtoo.jpg

    thumb_IMG_4182_1024_zpsnusbjir2.jpg

    And thats where I'm up to. Lots more to do, but I'm making progress. :thumbup:

    *EDIT* I cant seem to get rid of the pics below, they shouldnt be there and every time I delete them they come back. :angry-screaming:

    @Crispin ? :pray:


    IMG_3938_zpsdbbadci1.jpg IMG_4065_zpsgxqzgppd.jpg IMG_4066_zpswid0qxfu.jpg IMG_4067_zpsepsmi4rc.jpg IMG_4068_zpsueac7fui.jpg IMG_4069_zps5ia4dal9.jpg IMG_4070_zpswlwglq6u.jpg thumb_IMG_4109_1024_zps4vv2em5p.jpg thumb_IMG_4110_1024_zpsfutyayxr.jpg thumb_IMG_4113_1024_zpskyudwnmo.jpg thumb_IMG_4114_1024_zps3kdyrxhz.jpg thumb_IMG_4115_1024_zpss1wa6gjw.jpg thumb_IMG_4116_1024_zpsdqnvcb54.jpg thumb_IMG_4117_1024_zpsyyhqljdn.jpg thumb_IMG_4120_1024_zpsom0ccub1.jpg thumb_IMG_4121_1024_zpsirosfhq8.jpg thumb_IMG_4122_1024_zpsufzitavp.jpg thumb_IMG_4123_1024_zpso3ulpeme.jpg thumb_IMG_4136_1024_zpsg4ngwwn7.jpg thumb_IMG_4137_1024_zps6u9dol28.jpg thumb_IMG_4142_1024_zpsnwg8w9ku.jpg thumb_IMG_4151_1024_zps7yaasxo3.jpg thumb_IMG_4152_1024_zpsijqz1f3h.jpg thumb_IMG_4124_1024_zpskeck24en.jpg thumb_IMG_4125_1024_zpsxeedmrfz.jpg thumb_IMG_4127_1024_zpserqigdgb.jpg thumb_IMG_4128_1024_zpsv33kiejk.jpg thumb_IMG_4129_1024_zps0gb6p2vk.jpg thumb_IMG_4131_1024_zpsfg2ffhqz.jpg thumb_IMG_4132_1024_zpse02ykich.jpg thumb_IMG_4135_1024_zps0lmaasti.jpg thumb_IMG_4155_1024_zpslvqtjz4m.jpg thumb_IMG_4156_1024_zpsf90ad5ao.jpg thumb_IMG_4158_1024_zpsjlqk1n2y.jpg thumb_IMG_4164_1024_zpsr47cgwwm.jpg thumb_IMG_4165_1024_zpsgvwlbynt.jpg thumb_IMG_4166_1024_zpsfv0qu2yn.jpg thumb_IMG_4157_1024_zpskye3e1cm.jpg thumb_IMG_4167_1024_zpsgzfi9jpq.jpg thumb_IMG_4168_1024_zpsk1cjygaw.jpg thumb_IMG_4169_1024_zpskvmkmdlr.jpg thumb_IMG_4173_1024_zpsec2uftn0.jpg thumb_IMG_4178_1024_zpsgdrivzer.jpg thumb_IMG_4179_1024_zps0vdncyxu.jpg thumb_IMG_4180_1024_zps6xnn9dzp.jpg thumb_IMG_4181_1024_zpsbebdgtoo.jpg thumb_IMG_4182_1024_zpsnusbjir2.jpg IMG_3975_zps81fq4pds.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2016
    yota_lj likes this.
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