Roof mounted Camping Lights - Wiring/Connection suggestions.

[DH.120]

Good day to you all.

Next on my list (of ever increasing items) is looking at getting the installation of some camping lights. What I mean by this is some lights attached to the roof rack at the side that I'll use for general illumination whilst camping - there will probably be some side lights and a rear light (for when I'm using the rear table). Whilst I've not got any worries in obtaining the lights, how to wire them, fuse them, how to fix them to the roof rack, etc what I'm not too sure about is the route that the cabling will take and how to make the roof rack removable.

General concept is:

Leisure Battery
│
└── Fuse ──── On/Off
switch
│
└── Wireless Controller
│
├─ Fuse ─ Light 1 (Passenger side)
├─ Fuse ─ Light 2 (Rear)
├─ Fuse ─ Light 3 (Drivers side)
└─ Fuse ─ spare (possibly under bonnet)


I'm after some ideas from the brains on this forum, and to know what has worked for you and what hasn't. What my 'plan' is it to have the lights installed on the roof rack and to be able to 'unplug' the roof rack and remove it when not in use - so some sort of connection(s) will be required that will also have to be waterproof. I'm going to be controlling the lights via a remote control, via a wireless controller with 4 outputs, so I can switch on/off the lights I require easily and without constantly going in/out of he truck.

Any ideas on the type of connector and where to mount it / run the cables up to the roof rack?? I've no snorkel, so that option is not on the table.

Thanks in advance

 

[jibberjabber]

Good day to you all.

Next on my list (of ever increasing items) is looking at getting the installation of some camping lights. What I mean by this is some lights attached to the roof rack at the side that I'll use for general illumination whilst camping - there will probably be some side lights and a rear light (for when I'm using the rear table). Whilst I've not got any worries in obtaining the lights, how to wire them, fuse them, how to fix them to the roof rack, etc what I'm not too sure about is the route that the cabling will take and how to make the roof rack removable.

General concept is:

Leisure Battery
│
└── Fuse ──── On/Off
switch
│
└── Wireless Controller
│
├─ Fuse ─ Light 1 (Passenger side)
├─ Fuse ─ Light 2 (Rear)
├─ Fuse ─ Light 3 (Drivers side)
└─ Fuse ─ spare (possibly under bonnet)


I'm after some ideas from the brains on this forum, and to know what has worked for you and what hasn't. What my 'plan' is it to have the lights installed on the roof rack and to be able to 'unplug' the roof rack and remove it when not in use - so some sort of connection(s) will be required that will also have to be waterproof. I'm going to be controlling the lights via a remote control, via a wireless controller with 4 outputs, so I can switch on/off the lights I require easily and without constantly going in/out of he truck.

Any ideas on the type of connector and where to mount it / run the cables up to the roof rack?? I've no snorkel, so that option is not on the table.

Thanks in advance

Good day to you to,

Could you fit a snorkel ?

 

[flint]

Anderson connectors are good for this sort of thing, some examples here, though other suppliers do them too:

Anderson Power Connectors | 12 Volt Planet

Anderson power connectors for high current applications such as battery charging & jump starting and welding. A range of sizes & current ratings plus accessories. Anderson Power Products from 12 Volt Planet

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

 

[DH.120]

Good day to you to,

Could you fit a snorkel ?

Yes I could fit a snorkel, but seems an expensive way to do it when I don’t think I’d need it. Trying to not fit one to be honest as it appears from reading around that it’s something that most people seem to say isn’t really a necessity unless you are going the full hog and extending breathers etc.

 

[DH.120]

Anderson connectors are good for this sort of thing, some examples here, though other suppliers do them too:

http://[URL]https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/anderson-power-connectors.html

[/URL]

Thanks, yes agree Anderson plugs are excellent and stand up to a lot of abuse too - however for three lights on the roof that would mean three connectors and I’ve still got the query on where I’d mound them.

Been thinking I might be able to use something like a new style towing connector?

 

[jibberjabber]

Yes I could fit a snorkel, but seems an expensive way to do it when I don’t think I’d need it. Trying to not fit one to be honest as it appears from reading around that it’s something that most people seem to say isn’t really a necessity unless you are going the full hog and extending breathers etc.

Point taken with regard to the breathers, but, I can't see a way of getting the wires up to the roof without them being on the outside of the vehicle, or drilling.

Although I vaguely remember an articale where someone had run the wires through the headlining then through one of the roof bar bolt holes, as the bolt holes are not blind, they go through to the lining, I think this was on a 100 though.

 

[Tractionman]

As flint says, Anderson are good secure connectors, and Im thinking all lights wired into one anderson connector of the appropriate combined amps, which is fixed in a panel mount at the rear of the roof rack.
A short patch lead, Anderson's either end, to another Anderson mounted in rear area, to leisure battery.
When camped with presumably rear doors open, plug patch lead into roof rack Anderson, and Anderson in rear area, either through open doors or through a window.
With the patch lead disconnected, you are ready to go or take the roof rack off.
Where my idea falls down is where to wire your controller, because this way, once plugged in All the lights will be on, mmm.. maybe not such a good idea, or one that could be played with.

 

[flint]

Perhaps you could mount the receiver for the wireless controller in a waterproof (plastic) box on the roof rack ?

 

[Shayne]

Solar Panel Mounting Cable Entry Black

IN STOCK: best prices on Solar Panel Mounting Cable Entry Black, 539.

www.manomano.co.uk

 

[DH.120]

Perhaps you could mount the receiver for the wireless controller in a waterproof (plastic) box on the roof rack ?

That's a qood idea - Had it in my head that each lights cables would have to be done individually, had not thought of doing a single power to the controller on the roof. Should be able to relatively easily run a single set of cales to the roof then have the controller attached to the rack as well as the lights.

Will investigate that approach; sometimes it just needs another perspective on the problem. Thanks.

 

[DH.120]

As flint says, Anderson are good secure connectors, and Im thinking all lights wired into one anderson connector of the appropriate combined amps, which is fixed in a panel mount at the rear of the roof rack.
A short patch lead, Anderson's either end, to another Anderson mounted in rear area, to leisure battery.
When camped with presumably rear doors open, plug patch lead into roof rack Anderson, and Anderson in rear area, either through open doors or through a window.
With the patch lead disconnected, you are ready to go or take the roof rack off.
Where my idea falls down is where to wire your controller, because this way, once plugged in All the lights will be on, mmm.. maybe not such a good idea, or one that could be played with.

Thanks - Think you have the answer in combination with Flints idea of mounting the controller on the roof rack too. Also having an Anderson mounted in rear area, to leisure battery, means the connector could be used for other items too if not connected with the extension to the roof rack.

 

[nick_the_fish]

I've got 3 lights on my roof rack, left, right and rear. They are all LED so are run from 3 x 0.5mm wires fused individually. One is run via a remote controller unit, the other 2 are via switches. They are all run through a hole above the barn doors at the rear (although i'm sure cold be run similarly if you have a lift type rear door). I driller about a 5mm hole, put in a grommet, ran the wires through and used some silicon sealant to seal the (very small) gap that was left. Its been water tight ever since. They could then easily be routed to lights on the roof rack via anderson plugs. I looked at al sorts of sealing grommets from boat builders but this solution was the most effective in my situation.

On a side note I have tried using Superseal plugs, but I found that they all failed (fell off) which i'm certain is because i didn't use the Superseal tool to fit them. I do't know if Anderson are the same but you might find that to fit an Anderson plug woth a few quid you need an Anderson tool worth £40

If it helps I can upload some photos of what i have done

 

[DH.120]

I've got 3 lights on my roof rack, left, right and rear. They are all LED so are run from 3 x 0.5mm wires fused individually. One is run via a remote controller unit, the other 2 are via switches. They are all run through a hole above the barn doors at the rear (although i'm sure cold be run similarly if you have a lift type rear door). I driller about a 5mm hole, put in a grommet, ran the wires through and used some silicon sealant to seal the (very small) gap that was left. Its been water tight ever since. They could then easily be routed to lights on the roof rack via anderson plugs. I looked at al sorts of sealing grommets from boat builders but this solution was the most effective in my situation.

On a side note I have tried using Superseal plugs, but I found that they all failed (fell off) which i'm certain is because i didn't use the Superseal tool to fit them. I do't know if Anderson are the same but you might find that to fit an Anderson plug woth a few quid you need an Anderson tool worth £40

If it helps I can upload some photos of what i have done

nick_the_fish - Sounds like nearly an exact same set up (although I'll have all mine through the remote controller as it's 4 channels). Like you say the power requirements aren't that great for the LED lights, so massive cables are not required. Would be great to see some photos if you have them. Thanks.

 

[Tractionman]

Nick, interested in this Anderson tool you mention, didn't know there was one.
I have fitted a few of these in the past and never used a tool. The contacts are held in plastic body by spring clips which you can dis engage by inserting small screwdriver, pressing on the clip, at the same time pushing the individual contact out. They are stiff !
Thread the waterproof rubber boot over cables, solder cables into contacts, click them back into place by a firm push, (you can feel and hear them engage) and slide cover down cables and into place on plastic body/cable ends. Saves cost of a tool, which you may not need again.

 

[garygiles1963]

Hi

I installed my rack lighting last year, similar to others here.

3 pairs left, right and rear. The lights I used were 6 Inch LED Light Bar Spot Light with Amber and White Dual Color 54W LED Work Light, YEEGO 6 Inch LED Light Bar Spot Light Pods Driving Fog Lights Off Road 12V 24V for Car Truck Boat with Amber and White Dual Color, 2 Years Warranty: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club].

Each pair has its own junction box, inside a wireless controlled dimmer and a selection switch on the outside. The switch is to select between white and amber. Amber is better on the eye and also doesn't attract the flying insects as much as white light. I also I installed a rear centre 120w flood light. Again with its own junction box with wireless controlled dimmer. This has 2 dimmer controls, 1 at the driver position and the other at the rear. Means I can use it as a big reverse light. Having various junction boxes means I only needed to run 1 x 12v supply to the roof rach

The connectors I used for the Junction boxes and lights are Superseal 1.5 Series Waterproof Connectors, Superseal 1.5 Series Waterproof Connectors | 12 Volt Planet - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club]. I like these, great value. Also there different multi pin options. You will need to practice a bit terminating them, once you get the hang of it, there easy. You also need the right tool, Superseal / Econoseal Terminal Ratchet Crimping Tool Superseal / Econoseal Terminal Ratchet Crimping Tool - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club].

For the feed to the rack, I used Anderson connector.


Gary

 

[Tractionman]

Torberry connectors are another option for individual wires as not bulky, used a lot for low power battery connections on golf club carts. (The hand controlled ones not ride on)

 

[nick_the_fish]

Nick, interested in this Anderson tool you mention, didn't know there was one.

@Tractionman I don't know if there is a tool for Anderson plugs, I haven't used one, what I was trying to say (although not very well) was that in my experience you do need a Superseal tool to make the Superseal connectors work, and that if this is the same for Anderson plugs then the cost of te tool should be factored into any decision making.

From your explanation its sounds like you don't need a tool, so really all i've ended up doing s confusing everyone Interesting to hear your explanation of the Anderson set-up tho. I'll give them a go.

N

 

[garygiles1963]

HI

Sorr for the confusion, you need a tool for Superseal / Econoseal Terminal Ratchet Crimping Tool Superseal / Econoseal Terminal Ratchet Crimping Tool

You will need a strong crimp tool for Anderson connectors, I have this one, Nordstrand pwt-hc29 Hydraulic Crimping Tool for Wire Cable Electrical Terminals-8 Ton, Nordstrand pwt-hc29 Hydraulic Crimping Tool for Wire Cable Electrical Terminals-8 Ton: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools - [Leaving Land Cruiser Club]. This has worked well for me.

Gary

 

[Shayne]

In 1997 Toyota punched 12 holes in my 80's roof and when the rack was removed 23 years later evidently the simple rubber gasket had done its job . I will be drilling holes because no waterproof connector is as good as one that never gets wet .

 

[Tractionman]

No worries Nick.
Gary, are there 2 different types of Anderson contacts inside the actual plastic body then?
All the ones I have used are like a 'cup' to hold solder. Remove contact, as above, thread the boot on cables, put contact in vice. Fill wth solder, heat till molten, and plunge bared end of cable in ×2, reinsert contacts with cable attached and slide down boot. No crimping or expense of tool ?