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Rust

cmcmill01

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Folks,
Spotted these 2 rust problems the other day.
This one is on the front driver side sill above the wheel.

BA79884C-0FCD-4C43-9C7C-21C5F2BE5BAF.jpeg

And the below rear passenger side wheel, beside the side step, why do you have an up turned lip, all it does is trap mud!!!

445866FD-83F8-4340-9798-BAD27B49DC25.jpeg

Anybody dealt with rust in these places and/or have a recommendation on how to fix them?? Will probably take it to a body shop to fix once I get some guidance, cheers Craig
 
I would think, on the 2nd picture down, there would be a lot more rust on the other side of that vertical panel where the water is trapped. Also the rust in the channel probably comes from the joint between the 2 panels and then eventually comes to the surface through the metal causing the channel to take the blame. Once one starts removing rusty parts all hell breaks loose.
 
IMG_4483.JPG
IMG_4435.JPG
Folks,
Spotted these 2 rust problems the other day.
This one is on the front driver side sill above the wheel.

View attachment 133609
And the below rear passenger side wheel, beside the side step, why do you have an up turned lip, all it does is trap mud!!!

View attachment 133610
Anybody dealt with rust in these places and/or have a recommendation on how to fix them?? Will probably take it to a body shop to fix once I get some guidance, cheers Craig
Alas this is typical and as Frank Said, once it starts...
Before and after pics if my repair above.
Find a good bodyshop. Make sure the guy is not about to retire and discuss an annual visit. A cash job may help him out too.
Best of luck with it
 
I'm looking forward to sorting mine next year, as always you usually find much more than you can see when you start digging properly :thumbup:
 
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What condition are the rear quarters in Craig, visibly?

Mine were quite bad, from the top of bumper level downwards. They serve little purpose and they're hidden behind the bumper, so I told the body shop to cut them off and plate them flat.

He's a perfectionist though, and reconstructed them beautifully.
 
I would think, on the 2nd picture down, there would be a lot more rust on the other side of that vertical panel where the water is trapped. Also the rust in the channel probably comes from the joint between the 2 panels and then eventually comes to the surface through the metal causing the channel to take the blame. Once one starts removing rusty parts all hell breaks loose.
Frank, yep that’s what I’m worried about, it’s broken through the rust proofing layer!!

View attachment 133638 View attachment 133637
Alas this is typical and as Frank Said, once it starts...
Before and after pics if my repair above.
Find a good bodyshop. Make sure the guy is not about to retire and discuss an annual visit. A cash job may help him out too.
Best of luck with it
I have used a guy who fixed the rust at the bottom of the tailgate window before and then resprayed it. Pictures show a good result can happen.

What condition are the rear quarters in Craig, visibly?

Mine were quite bad, from the top of bumper level downwards. They serve little purpose and they're hidden behind the bumper, so I told the body shop to cut them off and plate them flat.

He's a perfectionist though, and reconstructed them beautifully.
Rear panels are solid inside and out, well I think, they have been treated before so I don’t know if the rust was getting bad underneath! Although it was 4/5 years since I had her done
 
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Hi Craig,

Did you get this sorted yet? If not I could send you a few pics of the repair I did on mine, which was also on the near side arch/sill. It required the removal of the side step to see exactly what was occurring and to get access to cut away a small section.

Cheers,
Mark
 
Update, so below are the pictures of the repair, looks like a good job and feels solid!! Only time will tell, he cut out the sections and welded in new metal sheet.
8FD91524-E466-4F79-BFEA-CD2496549808.jpeg
5F684E86-A724-4925-BEE7-ACBBF708EB3D.jpeg
 
I am at that point right now, I found that a proper check with a specialist rust detection tool (AKA a screwdriver), revealed it is worse than it looked! :cry:

Regards

Dave
 
I think the MOT tester is allowed to use “light thumb pressure” or a similar phrase. So if not perforated it may get a pass?
 
On vehicles with a seperate chassis, perforation allowed used to be within IIRC 30cm from a suspension or seat belt mount?

The MOT testers tool used to be an aluminium spike with a plastic handle, this was used to press on suspect areas, if it went through within the area mentioned earlier it would be a fail however, it is feasible that a rusty perforated sill outside of the area could still pass, but things change sooooooo.......

Regards

Dave
 
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On vehicles with a seperate chassis, perforation allowed used to be within IIRC 30cm from a suspension or seat belt mount?

The MOT testers tool used to be an aluminium spike with a plastic handle, this was used to press on suspect areas, if it went through within the area mentioned earlier it would be fail however, it is feasible that a rusty perforated sill outside of the area could still pass, but things change sooooooo.......

Regards

Dave

Yep 30cm within suspension/steering/seat belt/body mount/structural parts.
Aluminium hammer with a scraper as part of the handle, finger and thumb pressure on suspect area then tap with hammer, the mot hammer is designed if you hit something hard enough it breaks.
People use it as a spike but that's very naughty. Hammer tests to a minimum standard.

I've broken a couple :lol:
 
I thought the MOT hammer was a T shape so it could be held in a clenched fist and the spike punched through sills?

Most of an 80 (with the rear seats in) is covered by the 30cm to the seatbelt mount rule as if the buckle is mounted to the seats, all the seat mounts then become 30cm prescribed areas.
 
I thought the MOT hammer was a T shape so it could be held in a clenched fist and the spike punched through sills?

Most of an 80 (with the rear seats in) is covered by the 30cm to the seatbelt mount rule as if the buckle is mounted to the seats, all the seat mounts then become 30cm prescribed areas.

That's what some people do!! I find a drywall hammer works better (joking)

A lot of cars have very little area not covered by prescribed areas.


Some nice looking repairs @cmcmill01 :thumbup:
 
A good tip when having a welding repair done is to ask to see the job when the fabrication is finished and before any seam sealer or paint is applied.
 
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