Stalling issues....

[Howmanygoes]

4.2 diesel auto.

Hoping the oracles on here can help.

Getting random stalling issues. Vehicle starts and runs, I drive it for a bit say 400meters to a few miles and it stalls. ECU light flicks on then all lights and then nothing... restarts straight off (though historically it was a PITA to start again)

So I had a full service done today (air, fuel, oils filters). And ECU read (no codes). Picked her up and 2miles later, she stalled. Restarted straight off and got her home, another 2miles. There was no vibration like TC failing (though I have experienced this before so booked in next week for TC replacement £1200, which I am not 100% she needs)

What else to try........

 

[stumog]

Does the revs drop when your braking?

If you left foot to a stop and use your right foot to keep the revs up. Try this and report back. If it's controllable you would then start looking at the fuel pump

 

[Grimbo]

First thing to diagnose is if it is stalling or the engine is just stopping .
An engine stalling is generally doing it under load .......the TC issue caused the engine to stall as you came to a halt with the engine at tickover or very light throttle as you have experienced.
From your description it just stops .
Is there anything common in the way it stops ......are you always doing the same thing or is it just random and can happen speeding up or when slowing down ?
It could be a dry solder joint in the engine ECU , a wire that is broken or partially broken .
This type of failure won't always cause a fault to be recorded .
How Old is the car ? Certainly on the early 100's the fuel injection was pretty basic .
Try a good old wiggle test , with the engine running give all the looms a good wiggle and pull especially to FIP and engine loom .
The last thing on the info you have given so far is to change the TC if you have already had one done ......the problem was a plastic washer and new TC's don't normally fail again

 

[Howmanygoes]

First thing to diagnose is if it is stalling or the engine is just stopping .

Thanks for the reply.

So further info, and it’s lengthy so apologies,

The first thing I noticed, that on coasting (still in drive) ie up to junctions, Occasionally the vehicle would judder slightly, like when you forget to dip the clutch in a manual. Initial google bash and thoughts were TC issue but didn’t do it all the time. Booked in for Tc on Thursday next week. But think the issue is more than that.

Then went to leave home 545am for work pulling out of drive need to drive forward and then back up a bit due to turning circle. Started fine moved forward ok, stopped fun, put it in reverse, applied revs, engine stopped. Took an age to start her up again, lots of throttle and continual with the keys. I was at this point not very popular with other road users as I was blocking the whole road.

Managed to get her running and started to drive to work 50miles each way. About 4miles down the road all seemed a little too quite, engine man light flicked in applied revs and dash lit up, engine stopped. Restarted straight away. Pulled over for a bit and engine ran fine. Continued with journey to work, no further issues other than one bit of juddering, dropped to neutral and coasted, all ok.

When I finished work, started fine and ran ok for a couple of mins, reversed out of space, put it into drive, engine stopped, took ages to restart.

Couple of other coasting or light throttle engine cut outs over last few days. Always starts first time, feels like a slow or lathergic throttle response sometimes.

I will try the connector and cable wiggling

Drove fine on test drive and on way home from purchase and for 2-3 days there after......

Year 2000 x reg. 137000

 

[uHu]

First of all, year and month of manufacture is crucial info. Suggests to update signature line.
Since it's a 2000, there are two main suspects in the "easy to fix" category: One is the pick-up filter in the tank, and 2, more likely, the connection between the EDU and the IP (Spill Control Valve). There's a plug on the Spill Valve which is known to develop a bad connection over time. There's a TSB on it, iirc. Easy to fix by replacing the female part with two small (3.2mm ?) spade connectors and some vulcanizing tape. Just take off the plastic cover over the IP and you'll easily find out if that's the problem.

 

[Howmanygoes]

Thank you.

Year is 2000, can’t give month yet, as waiting for v5 back from DVLA, unless you can tell from VIN

Can you help me with your acronyms please.

Looks like I am going to have a cold and busy weekend.

 

[Howmanygoes]

First of all, year and month of manufacture is crucial info. Suggests to update signature line.
Since it's a 2000, there are two main suspects in the "easy to fix" category: One is the pick-up filter in the tank, and 2, more likely, the connection between the EDU and the IP (Spill Control Valve). There's a plug on the Spill Valve which is known to develop a bad connection over time. There's a TSB on it, iirc. Easy to fix by replacing the female part with two small (3.2mm ?) spade connectors and some vulcanizing tape. Just take off the plastic cover over the IP and you'll easily find out if that's the problem.

IP?
EDU?
TSB =technical service bulletin
Iirc = if I recall correctly

 

[uHu]

Injection Pump
EDU - Driver for Spill Valve - black box just to the rear of the engine fuse box. Follow the cable and you find the Spill Valve (or Spill Control Valve in t0yota speech).
Spill Valve is a part of the IP which is powered by high voltage pulses from the EDU.

 

[Higgy]

https://www.landcruiserclub.net/com...evs-poor-running-any-help-appreciated.151241/ Have you looked at this post by Dan.. Might be relevant, might not . Have a read.. could be a starting point..

 

[Howmanygoes]

Does the revs drop when your braking?

If you left foot to a stop and use your right foot to keep the revs up. Try this and report back. If it's controllable you would then start looking at the fuel pump

Tried this no stalling or rev alterations.

 

[Howmanygoes]

https://www.landcruiserclub.net/com...evs-poor-running-any-help-appreciated.151241/ Have you looked at this post by Dan.. Might be relevant, might not . Have a read.. could be a starting point..

Thanks simular issues but not quite the same. And I had read throw this before.

 

[Howmanygoes]

Injection Pump
EDU - Driver for Spill Valve - black box just to the rear of the engine fuse box. Follow the cable and you find the Spill Valve (or Spill Control Valve in t0yota speech).
Spill Valve is a part of the IP which is powered by high voltage pulses from the EDU.

Update:
Starts, ran, moved back and forth on drive no issues.

Allowed to warm up. Moved back and forth, no issues.

Did wiggle test on all clips/hoses visible, no difference. No issues at edu end.

To access spill valve do i need to remove the IP cover?

Only thing I have noticed was a a small turbo whine. I tried to post video but system won’t let me.

 

[grantw]

Checking the filter in the tank should be a fairly quick thing. I think it's as easy in a 100 series as an 80. Take the rear seat out which will give you access to a panel in the fuel tank. take this out and check the filter doesn't have crud all over it. If it does you have the diesel bug and it's easily treatable.

 

[Higgy]

Im sure there's a post on here somewhere with someone having identical problems. not sure if it was 100 or 80. but cant for the life of me find it...... My brain is telling me it was a Aussie member.. Il keep looking

 

[Howmanygoes]

Checking the filter in the tank should be a fairly quick thing. I think it's as easy in a 100 series as an 80. Take the rear seat out which will give you access to a panel in the fuel tank. take this out and check the filter doesn't have crud all over it. If it does you have the diesel bug and it's easily treatable.

Picking up a new in tank filter tomorrow. Whilst it’s out might as well replace it (and genuine fuel filter). Don’t understand why it would run fine, no sputtering, no Rev bouncing obviously fuel is getting through ok.... starting to make me a little crazy....

 

[Higgy]

Picking up a new in tank filter tomorrow. Whilst it’s out might as well replace it (and genuine fuel filter). Don’t understand why it would run fine, no sputtering, no Rev bouncing obviously fuel is getting through ok.... starting to make me a little crazy....

We knew you would Crack in the end..."Welcome to the club" .Your now official..

 

[big-yin]

Im sure there's a post on here somewhere with someone having identical problems. not sure if it was 100 or 80. but cant for the life of me find it...... My brain is telling me it was a Aussie member.. Il keep looking

Was it this one:

https://landcruiserclub.net/communi...m-the-southwest-uk.150871/page-2#post-1502064

 

[Higgy]

Was it this one:

https://landcruiserclub.net/communi...m-the-southwest-uk.150871/page-2#post-1502064

No! Thanks Big Yin, I think hes already seen this post.. I know there's a post on here Im sure of it.. With identical symptoms..

 

[StarCruiser]

Higgy was thecthread you were thinking of on a Collie? Whoever it was already had the spill control valve(s) (SCVs) and fitted with no appreciable difference. Sent his ECU away to the ECU doctor who identified some faults and fixed. If so you are right in this sounding similar.
I have no experience with Torque converter problems and hope I never will but a general rule of troubleshooting after doing theceasy things first, is to never (ok with very few exceptions) change any Component without proving it faulty. £1200 is a lot to spend and I would have thought the problem would be constant if the TC were at fault. Like I say, this is not experience based, but generic troubleshooting. Fuel tank inspection and fuel filter change I would say are essential items at the easy/ cheap end of the scale. The EDU and/or spill control valve are next suspects.

There must be a method of testing the TC in the FSM (factory service manual) which I would thoroughly suggest doing before parting with £1200. Jobs can be cancelled and parts returned if need be. The date will help to find if yours left the factory with a suspect TC.

I wish you the very best of luck with it. You’ll get there and will have your cruiser grin.

 

[Howmanygoes]

Higgy was thecthread you were thinking of on a Collie? Whoever it was already had the spill control valve(s) (SCVs) and fitted with no appreciable difference. Sent his ECU away to the ECU doctor who identified some faults and fixed. If so you are right in this sounding similar.
I have no experience with Torque converter problems and hope I never will but a general rule of troubleshooting after doing theceasy things first, is to never (ok with very few exceptions) change any Component without proving it faulty. £1200 is a lot to spend and I would have thought the problem would be constant if the TC were at fault. Like I say, this is not experience based, but generic troubleshooting. Fuel tank inspection and fuel filter change I would say are essential items at the easy/ cheap end of the scale. The EDU and/or spill control valve are next suspects.

There must be a method of testing the TC in the FSM (factory service manual) which I would thoroughly suggest doing before parting with £1200. Jobs can be cancelled and parts returned if need be. The date will help to find if yours left the factory with a suspect TC.

I wish you the very best of luck with it. You’ll get there and will have your cruiser grin.

Thanks for the thoughts. I cancelled the Tc works this am, as I need to work out why it stops randomly first. I did the fuel filter before but used after market, so getting genuine tomorrow and see.