The alternative to a snorkel

[jonkem]

Yes Roger, having driven stages where the water is up to the dashboard for 1/2 a mile, I can confirm that the car won't survive for years and years.

Most engine aqualocks seem to be from casual wading or even high speed splashing with a conventional air intake or nutters who don't mind killing their car. So any measures taken are worthwhile to prevent it.

My 70 wouldn't run for long with the intake inside the car judging by how hard it is to close the doors, pretty airtight.

I definitely wouldn't go the electric route with the build you've got. A cast housing etc would be better for that to operate faultlessly I'd think. Something like the old Bosch Potentiometer housings would be good as a starting point.

An aftermarket choke cable set up is as good as anything. Keep the cable as short and direct as possible for a positive feel and note the fully closed and open positions of the pull handle for peace of mind. Maybe locate it alongside the fuel flap and bonnet pull for neatness? Save having to mess too much and they even come with mounting brackets.

 

[Roger Fairclough]

The control system for the valve is now in place.

I bought a proprietary bonnet release catch. I removed the crimped end and soldered an extension piece (Ex gas welding tip). The bowden cable is held in place by the grub screw. The extension gives me the necessary 60mm of movement I need.

The complete control rod and mounting bracket. The smaller piece goes over the valve operating arm.

All in place. Arm is in the 'off' position (air drawn in from inner wing)

Aid drawn in from inside the car.

Control inside car mounted onto steering column fixing bolt.

General pictures under bonnet.

Roger

 

[Roger Fairclough]

There were a number of options available for valve actuation.

1) Electric---fiddly and probably prone to breakdowns, so not pursued with.

2) Twin cable using standard bike type cables. This is fussy and would require two mounting points on the valve plus some sort of on/off lever control.

3) A rod system. This was possible but the sealing of the rod through the bulkhead would need to allow for various vertical and horizontal movements of the rod. Plus the control would be next to the h/lamp height setting switch and as such difficult to access.

4) A single spiral wound bowden outer cable with a stainless spring steel inner. The outer cable is flexible enough to accommodate the 150mm dia. bend and the single wire is strong enough to work in both pull/push mode. By placing the operating cable on the front face of the valve, the normal road use of the valve is when the operating rod is fully pushed in. When pulled out---approx 60mm---the operating rod does not interfere with anything else inside the car.

Roger

 

[Ben]

great work as always Roger.

are you pleased with it?

just need that pic of you fording a river now with water over the bonnet and not a snorkel in sight!

 

[Roger Fairclough]

Yes Ben, I am pleased with the way it has turned out. The control mechanism is smooth and positive and the under dash position of the control knob is unobtrusive.

As to the picture, that is a big no-no.With water over the bonnet, I would expect that I would be close to floating away. Apparently a Sherman tank would float in 8FT of water.

Roger

 

[Crushers]

cool idea, in a properly sealed vehicle that device would work very well in deep water for quite a while.
i have had deep water crossing where the gravel gave way under the tires from the current of the water and ended up stuck. it takes a LONG time to get enough water into a Land Cruiser to flood it deep enough to be a problem for this device

but

if it does flood then shut the vehicle down and get a tow out. better to have water seep into an engine than be sucked in due to a running engine.

i have also found that having the top of the snorkel facing the windscreen seems to help when it comes to heavy snow or rain contamination.

personally, i like the snorkel but this seems like a valid option.

if the vehicle is an open top unit then i would consider running the intake to behind the glove box as high as possible.