The dreaded handbrake

THL

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The handbrake on my dad's 80 has always been a bit weak and problematic but this time it seems to have become non-existent. I remember reading somewhere that it is a bit of a weak point on 80s. Is it a case of just keeping on top of it or is there aftermarkets kits or parts to beef it up a bit?

I also have read on this forum (but can't seem to find it) a thread where someone has detailed the proper tensioning of the cable to ensure its set up properly.

Any advice gratefully received!
 

StarCruiser

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Probably titled ‘hand brake’ by the look of the linkee.

It’s a good write up. Very good. And the handbrake continues to work, as proven on the brake tester only today. :)
 
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chapel gate

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Yes, excellent write up.

The game changer for me was replacing the "dog bones".

The top part of the shoe wears a groove in them over time. The metal contact point of the shoe can also have a wear mark.
 

THL

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Yes, excellent write up.

The game changer for me was replacing the "dog bones".

The top part of the shoe wears a groove in them over time. The metal contact point of the shoe can also have a wear mark.
That thread is a great source of info! I'll see what difference a regular wind up of the cog makes as this sounds like something I can do at home but a rebuild looks on the cards longer term.
 
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StarCruiser

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TBH, the proper reset (rebuild) doesn’t take that long and it’s worth building up the dog bones with weld as a quick fix.
 

StarCruiser

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Now that drawing is interesting. My dog bones had a step in them where Chris has shown weld. One side about 1.5 to 2mm longer than the other. It looked to be made like that but are you saying it should be straight across and consequently that mine may have shown wear?
 

THL

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I've only traced a picture from another thread on here and straightened it up so don't take my drawing as 100% accurate. If I do alter the dog bone I wanted to produce a full sized, accurate drawing that others with the same issue could just download, print out and use as a template.

Maybe post a pic next time you're working on the handbrake? Be good to see
 

chapel gate

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If you change the shoes 5mm can be too much, but a good starting point and can be ground down.
2 mill wear on each shoe contact point and 2 mill either end of the dog bone. There's 8 mm, doesn't sound much but along with a stretched cable can make a big difference.
 
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Jake the Peg

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I fitted new handbrake shoes, springs etc and new discs and modified the dog bones by 5mm and couldn’t get the discs over the handbrake shoes, so reduced the oversize to 3mm. I set up the correct adjustments with the handbrake cables disconnected and worked the cranks by hand to make sure it all worked correctly before reconnecting the cables. All adjustment off the cables when connecting up then took tension on the cables to reduce handbrake lever travel. Handbrake works a great now

Cheers
 
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