I've been there. Driving is a contact sport where you just push into any gap. If there isn't a gap, the horn is used to try and make one.
The place is filthy in parts but the people all seem to have clean clothes. It's an assault on the senses!
I think they all breathe in for any tunnels, and their finger tips are stronger than you'd imagine when confronted by a speeding train or bridge. Each fare is only a few rupees and the AC is that there's no glass in the windows. Plus the trains contain all sorts of illegal pedlars that are constantly on the look out for guards.
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