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Time for a turbo swap-out..?

GuyB

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sweden
I've been long considering a turbo upgrade for my 1HD-T. I might just go the hi-flow route, but I've budgeted for something of the G-Turbo or Wink variety. The plan was to fit a valve body and maybe a torque converter before doing any serious power upgrades, but my hand has been forced by a blown exhaust manifold gasket.

Given the condition of the studs/bolts, it's going to be a fairly serious undertaking just getting the manifold off, so while I'm there it seems madness not to push ahead with the turbo upgrade, even if much/most of the additional power it generates will be... lost in transmission. I'm fitting an extra ATF cooler and gauge anyway, so heat is under control.

I'm sure many of you have done this - can anyone offer any advice concerning:
  • Any gotchas with the swap-out process, assume I'll need some new studs etc - can anyone provide details or a source?
  • Has anyone done the turbo upgrade without changes to the transmission? Should I dial the boost controller down to something like stock pressure until I get around to upgrading the T/C and valve body?
Appreciate your thoughts...
 
I can vouch for wink. Fitted mine a few months back and is great. Didnt come with the studs but if you ask the wink boys I am sure they can get some for you. Id say you would definitly need to change them. I was hoping to replace the turbo with the exhust manifold still in place but couldnt find the room so it does need to come off. I already had my valve body in the auto upgraded so cant tell you if it would have much of an effect on the box standard
 
I’ve been talking to the Wink guys this weekend and to me it looks they are the way to go. They made their own turbo with better quality parts and more efficient than most others, 1.5 bar boost at 1800RPM, my HDFT does 1 bar at 2200 :openmouth:
If you want to get the maximum out of it you need to upgrade the gearbox.
If you’d run it 1 -1.5 bar I think you’ll be fine.
 
I’ve been talking to the Wink guys this weekend and to me it looks they are the way to go. They made their own turbo with better quality parts and more efficient than most others, 1.5 bar boost at 1800RPM, my HDFT does 1 bar at 2200 :openmouth:
If you want to get the maximum out of it you need to upgrade the gearbox.
If you’d run it 1 -1.5 bar I think you’ll be fine.

I was in their garage (Wink4x4) last week, and I must admit the turbo unit certainly looks the part. I also went for a spin in the blue one! Now on my list of things to change.
 
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UFI - United Fuel Injection, they have a big following in Aus.
 
UFI - United Fuel Injection, they have a big following in Aus.

Yes I had a look, thanks. When I searched for 80 Series on their site it came up with 'no products available'! I realise that's just a web glitch, but actually I'm taken with the idea of an EU part - save on shipping, and I may have some recourse if there's a problem.
 
Any idea of price on the Wink turbos... couldn't see any prices on the site...?
 
Any idea of price on the Wink turbos... couldn't see any prices on the site...?

List price is €1500 including VAT plus another €25 shipping. It's a state of the art turbocharger in a CT26 housing - not just a high flow CT26. Capable of 30psi with a stock fuel pump - 40 if you upgrade the pump.

I just ordered mine - very excited!

edit: Capable of 40 psi but the stock pump can only deliver enough fuel for 30.
 
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The Yanmar marine version of the 24v is good for 315hp with an IHI turbo .
It would be interesting to Dyno one and see what torque it produces .
I wonder if the Turbo and fuel pump would give 315 hp in a Cruiser.....mind you cooling would be the issue then I suspect
 
The Yanmar marine version of the 24v is good for 315hp with an IHI turbo .
It would be interesting to Dyno one and see what torque it produces .
I wonder if the Turbo and fuel pump would give 315 hp in a Cruiser.....mind you cooling would be the issue then I suspect

My cousin garage put a rebuilt 1HDT motor in his yacht and modified it to water cooled running a EFI upgraded turbo from a 24 valve model not quite 315HP I'm sure but certainly runs better with more power.

This is an upgrade I'm waiting to do on mine with the front strode and larger fan to give better boost not always wanting higher boost being the difference. Having made suitable cooling mods myself the only other issue is the manifold bearing more heat prone to crack over time so mods are a delicate procedure if you want to maintain reliability.
 
Boat HP is a strange thing......we used to sell loads of new tractor engines to a company that put them in fishing boat's , stock engine was 200hp for AG use but 300 plus in a boat .

The only thing being if you look at the Yanmar specs for the 4.2 L 24 valve marine engine it's not rated for continuous full power ...... AG engines will run for 18 hrs a day at Max power and Torque .
I guess in a Cruiser with 315 hp it would only be using max power for short periods .....but also the Torque curve is very different for a boat engine , it may well struggle to get to max power from a pull away with a load in a road application . We want a very flat torque curve for on/off road use .

We had the tractors using this engine (a 7.2L staright six ) that were rated at 135 HP but it was easy just to turn the fuelling up on the pump , demo tractors that went from Dealer to Dealer were often found to be well over 200HP as every new dealer demo guy gave the fuelling screw a 1/4 or 1/2 turn just to make sure it "went well" .
Thing was the engine never smoked more and had no turbo or intercooler mods , or even bigger injectors .
Playing with one on the Dyno we got 250HP from a tractor that stated it was 115 on the bonnet . We ran it for 5 years on a Baler Field Test fleet with no problems at 220HP ......biggest problem was Farmers with 170 HP tractors complaining we left them for dead on hill's and there must be something wrong with their tractor .
 
Yes your spot on certainly boats engines are set up and used differently to road. I don't personally go by BHP or torque figures more so on how the car pulls and drives along with reliability and efficiency.

My cousin told me theres a guy in Australia that tunes the fuel pump for a 80 to 300HP and with correct tuning theres a lot of extra power to be gained if you have the know how.
 
While you guys are looking at all this i'm not having much luck finding a 3" dump pipe for the CT26 so if it's got to come from Oz maybe i could chip in with shipping costs .
 
While you guys are looking at all this i'm not having much luck finding a 3" dump pipe for the CT26 so if it's got to come from Oz maybe i could chip in with shipping costs .

Shane any custom exhaust shop can made you one ....thats what I did personally just need a spare turbo for them to work off.

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Bog standard 97 24 valve uk amazon and in the short term i just need a new exhaust but i'm already thinking the power is there it just needs convincing its not a bus so it doesn't have to wait for late running passengers to jump aboard :lol:
 
Bog standard 97 24 valve uk amazon and in the short term i just need a new exhaust but i'm already thinking the power is there it just needs convincing its not a bus so it doesn't have to wait for late running passengers to jump aboard :lol:

Theres always potential just depends on ones expectations Shane. Their not ever going to be modern day fast just more fun to drive with mods. I don't know what others are like to drive because only ever driven mine but the few mods I've made have made a difference to the driving experience.

It is worth the £1000's to spend on mods worth it? I give you a different answer depending on which day you ask me.....lol

On yours you should have a EFI 24 valve turbo already so thats helps and adding a intercooler and custom exhaust with better tuning is the way forward but I'm sure you already know this?
 
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