Tow hitch solutions on lifted vehicles?

[ModelMakerMan]

Just found a slight hitch (pun intended) with my tow ball now Ive raised my truck Ive also raised the tow ball height (I know its obvious but I hadnt considered it till I came to tow something). The standard height for a tow ball is 16.5" from the ground to the middle of the ball my ball is now about 22" of the ground!

I have the standard tow hitch setup (or plough as its best used), only Ive now removed the rear bumper and steps and of course raised it 2" and put 33" tyres on it. If I widen the lower mounting holes that usually bolt into the bottom two of the recovery point bolts on the rear cross member I could move the hitch down to about 20" and it would still be bolted on with 4 bolts which would be more than strong enough to tow the 750kg tupperware box on wheels I would be towing but still too high really.

Im wondering what others have done as a more permanent solution on their lifted vehicles? A removable option would be best as I dont want to mess up the departure angle.

 

[J66P]

I have an height adjustable one that I bolt on when required

 

[ModelMakerMan]

Any pics? Where did you get it from? How far does it drop down? I need something that allows about the ball to be mounted 10" down from the middle of the rear cross member where the mounting bolts are to get the 16.5" standard.

 

[J66P]

similiar to this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Adjustable-He ... 3cb7722cd1

 

[Roger Fairclough]

What do you want to tow?

I have a twin axle trailer with a height adjustable "A" frame so that it can be used on either the Toyota or Shogun.

Roger

 

[ModelMakerMan]

@J66P: Do you know if the mounting holes are NATO spacings like the holes in Toyota rear cross members?

@Roger: I dont tow very often if Im honest but when I do I tow a variety of trailers ranging from the 750Kg unbraked tupperware box on wheels, canoe trailers, boat trailers up to a twin axle box trailer so modifying the trailer is not an option really.

 

[Roger Fairclough]

The mounting plate holes for the adjustable unit are NATO spacings.

Roger

 

[Jimbo4x4]

On the rare occasions I tow a twin axle trailer I have a drop plate (like this one) that I can bolt into the rear crossmember, but most of my towing is with single axles trailers which only cause a problem if they have a particularly short wheelbase and a sizable rear overhang.

Jim.

 

[ModelMakerMan]

Ive just been looking at the drop saddle style hitch system like you guys posted and the ladder type section which bolts to the rear cross member still sticks down quite a bit. what would be better is if it worked round the other way where the saddle section bolted to the cross member ant the ladder section was removable with the tow hitch attached.

 

[Birder]

What about using an American receiver and removable tow hitch

Some ideas http://www.hitchcorner.com/trailer-hitch-accessories.htm

Devon 4x4 have stock of various ones, give then a call

 

[Roger Fairclough]

Ive just been looking at the drop saddle style hitch system like you guys posted and the ladder type section which bolts to the rear cross member still sticks down quite a bit. what would be better is if it worked round the other way where the saddle section bolted to the cross member ant the ladder section was removable with the tow hitch attached.

You could reverse it. The fixing holes will be the same i.e. NATO spacing, so bolt the smaller section to your crossmember and use the longer piece to bolt the tow ball to. When not in use, just remove the longer section. You will have an inch or so hanging down, but this will not be a problem.

Roger

 

[ModelMakerMan]

You could reverse it. The fixing holes will be the same i.e. NATO spacing, so bolt the smaller section to your crossmember and use the longer piece to bolt the tow ball to. When not in use, just remove the longer section. You will have an inch or so hanging down, but this will not be a problem.

Brilliant! I wasnt sure, I reckon thats the best way to go.

 

[jeepmadmike]

If you fit an adjustable drop plate upside down it will flop about, rattle and be generally un safe, as the pins and holes are usually not a tight tolerance, is ok when the only leverage is the length on a ball hitch but the drop plate will be 10 times that.

Once I finish my current project I plan to make a new back bumper for my 70 and a receiver hitch will be part of the build, I will pop into D4x4 next time i pass and see if [strike:22ktj4bh]they try as usual to rip me off[/strike:22ktj4bh] give me a sensible price for the bits I want.

 

[Roger Fairclough]

If you fit an adjustable drop plate upside down it will flop about, rattle and be generally un safe, as the pins and holes are usually not a tight tolerance, is ok when the only leverage is the length on a ball hitch but the drop plate will be 10 times that.

Once I finish my current project I plan to make a new back bumper for my 70 and a receiver hitch will be part of the build, I will pop into D4x4 next time i pass and see if [strike:2uuinjfp]they try as usual to rip me off[/strike:2uuinjfp] give me a sensible price for the bits I want.

Dave only needs to have the smaller section permanently fitted to the cross member. The larger piece can be kept in the car for attachment as and when required. Yes it will rattle in use if the standard pins and "R" clips are used but It would do that if the bracket was fitted as the maker intended and anyway I would substitute them for a decent grade bolt and nut set-up that can be nipped up to remove all the rattle. Better still would be to use welded in tubes for the bolts to slide through, then the bolts could be properly tightened. The degree of twist passed back into the chassis cross member is determined by the o/a distance between the tow ball and the cross member. It does not matter which part of the drop device is bolted to what.

The towing capacity of the KZJ 70 is 2,000 kgs. From what Dave has said, he will not be approaching this figure. If he decides to go to the maximum, I would suggest a pair of stabilising angle pieces, similar to the Land-Rover system would be a good idea. This would still make no difference to which way round the bracket is fitted.

Roger

Roger

 

[jeepmadmike]

It's not the twist that's transferred to the chassis I was conserned about its the slop and therefore large forces that are produced when the movement stops

A friend of mine made a drop hitch the "wrong way around" with tight pin tolerances and it was great but a pig to push the pins in/out of.

I like the idea of the pins replaced with bolts and tubes welded in the gaps but this will need the 2 parts of the drop plate being reasonably matched so the bolts can be tightened correctly and clamp rather than just flex the metal work.
Even a 750kg trailer can put some force on the bar and VOSA will hang you first and then expect you to prove your innocence after a accident even if it's not your fault.

Thinking about this I have a G wagon ball (which bolted to the chassis) that make be a good solution for my new back bumper......

My LC being a grey import hasn't go a GVM or GTW on the vin plate i wonder what the VOSA man would say!