Truck won't start, no crank, RS3000 alarm?

[thelal]

1997 petrol USA FZJ80 300K
starter contacts redone in last 15K miles
been "fixing" truck last month or do and batterys (dual) taken out + lots of inside as fixing sunroof leak.
Put all back together but won't crank over.
Not the battery, as full charge, even had 'jump' start via another car and replaced main battery
It won't start, doesn't even attempt to crank
Methinks its electric, fuse or something
Checked NSS connector near transfer case and that seems fine (no corrosion and wires look ok); other than me breaking the connector - duh!
All fuses, relays seem ok in main engine and under dash.
On the dash when put in OK position have check engine, brake light (do not have tranny, or low oil light) indicators
I do no have any sign that my alarm (red light on dash) is activated and disconnected the 3 main wire harnesses to the RS3000 under the drivers seat but no difference. Put back together but no difference
I tried to reset the alarm (push in small green button on side of alarm for 3secs+) and pressed two of my fobs but nothing.
So concern that the alarm has something to do with it as it controls the IGN switch connector to the starter motor. I can't tell if mine is working or if its dead or how to bypass

Anyone with an RS3000 alarm? Can you tell me what happens (led light come on, what sequence) when getting ready to start (just before) your truck. How can you tell the alarm is working (other than response from a Fob press)

Ta

 

[Sag]

Have you tried to cross the connectors on the back of the starter motor just to see if it turns over then?ive used a large screwdriver before now to do it.

 

[StarCruiser]

Have a look at these Thelal.
https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/posts/1402876/
There may be something that helps here. It really needs testing through with a multimeter (or one with an auto electrician attachment if you prefer) to see just where the break is in the circuit.

Possibles include :-
10A fuse, not sure where but have seen posts on this.
Auto box not being in 'P' or 'N' (my personal favourite)
Corroded fuse box or broken terminal in there.
Wire left disconnected after work carried out.
Broken fusible link
Immobiliser saying "computer says no"
Fuses within the immobiliser blown.
Connector removed from starter motor.

In short, assume nothing, test through until you find the break in circuit or lack of volts where there should be volts.

 

[thelal]

Thanks for info. Havn't been able to get under it, to start diagnosing

If anyone has a RS3000 alarm would love to get the 'heres what it does' (led coming on, sounds etc,) when key is put into ignition, goes to acc, goes to on, and then start

 

[thelal]

able to get motor running with jump-wire into starter (as voltage from IGN not present when key at ON/ST position). So will trace back from there to IGN circuit and NSS

Still think its the alarm but disconnecting seems 'fuzzy'
Anyone got a RS3000/VIP (std on all USA FZJ80s) alarm installed and can tell me what happens when you enter the truck and then put to ACC, ON (any flashing LED or 'noise')

Thanks

 

[thelal]

turned out to be the alarm as expected.
Once I was able to disconnect it (right under IGN behind dash there is a connector you can disconnect and reconnect prev. origonal) and started up straight away

Anyone got an RS3000 alarm I can use?

 

[clivehorridge]

Have a look at these Thelal.
https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/posts/1402876/
There may be something that helps here. It really needs testing through with a multimeter (or one with an auto electrician attachment if you prefer) to see just where the break is in the circuit.

Possibles include :-
10A fuse, not sure where but have seen posts on this.
Auto box not being in 'P' or 'N' (my personal favourite)
Corroded fuse box or broken terminal in there.
Wire left disconnected after work carried out.
Broken fusible link
Immobiliser saying "computer says no"
Fuses within the immobiliser blown.
Connector removed from starter motor.

In short, assume nothing, test through until you find the break in circuit or lack of volts where there should be volts.

Good to hear you've found the problem Thelal.

The 10 Amp fuse that Rich mentioned is the one in the position labeled "gauge" in the dash fuse box. For some reason, when that blows, my lockers are dead (and they run off a separate 30 Amp fuse?), the window motors are dead (they have their own fuse too) heater fan (that has its own fuse) and the ignition circuit is dead.

Very odd that it affects all these things, but I've got used to it now.

 

[StarCruiser]

Good to hear you've found the problem Thelal.

The 10 Amp fuse that Rich mentioned is the one in the position labeled "gauge" in the dash fuse box. For some reason, when that blows, my lockers are dead (and they run off a separate 30 Amp fuse?), the window motors are dead (they have their own fuse too) heater fan (that has its own fuse) and the ignition circuit is dead.

Very odd that it affects all these things, but I've got used to it now.

Control circuit via relays Clive. Keeps the smoke to a minimum within smaller wires.