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Trying to talk my husband into buying this 1990 Toyota Land Cruiser Prado LJ71 Diesel

Poor man i wonder if he knows he has just bought a decade of you smugly informing friends and family , guests , the postmen and passing strangers that it was your idea :lol:
well done :thumbup:
I predict there will be a pair of cruisers on your drive sooner or later :icon-wink:

:laughing-rolling:

I wonder why you say that Shayne?

(a family of his & hers black 90's :lol:)
 
You've made me miss my 70 series, now.

One more thing to get, I guess.
 
Poor man i wonder if he knows he has just bought a decade of you smugly informing friends and family , guests , the postmen and passing strangers that it was your idea :lol:
well done :thumbup:
I predict there will be a pair of cruisers on your drive sooner or later :icon-wink:


YOU are very right about that Shayne. I take it you speak from experience. Thanks so much all.
 
So now I am off to other threads here. Seeking all advice and reading to learn. Us North Americans are so far behind it would seem. Just looking at car waxes etc. Nothing great available here. All the good stuff does not come close to British or European expertise it seems. I live in a built-in failure rate society.

But on to bigger and better things. Off to caring for threads. Thanks again and again. You folks fortified my belief that something could have quality, reliability, beauty and actually last when cared for. Kind of like the guy with a beard???? who is buying our car. "The one who must be listened to" is off working. So I did not know he has a beard and looks like the hippy he was.
 
As for caring for your vehicle, the biggest offender IMO formed over the 45 years of owning old cars is mud.

It comes in 2 main forms, the obvious from off-roading or even driving up the lane after a tractor has dumped a load of it from the fields, or from a gradual build-up of dirt from the road which will happen to any car even if it never goes off-road.

Everyone seems hell-bent on washing their cars and trucks and getting a shine on the paintwork, cleaning and polishing till it looks like showroom, and that's all very well. However, what is not present on a showroom car or truck is that build-up of mud lodged behind the sills, between the sills and the floor-pan, resting above the return lip of the wheel arches and generally in the spray field behind each wheel. This mud and silt gets wet every time it rains and holds moisture well into the next days, weeks and months (depending on the climate) where water (particularly salt water in the winter) is etching its way into the stone chipped paint which is also prevalent in these same areas of the bodywork. Chassis too gets filled with debris, grit, sand and mud over time, and all these areas need to be regularly washed free of mud to allow them to dry out and stay dry for as long as possible.

Dinitrol, or any other underbody or cavity treatment will, if applied to clean painted (or unpainted) surfaces, resist to some extent moisture from coming into contact with the steel, but a maintenance regime of underbody washing, a well aimed jetwash once a week and after any off-road trip will have the most effect IMO.

I'm out every weekend doing something muddy or dusty in my truck, but every Monday when back in the city, the truck goes to the car-wash and gets a good jetwashing underneath. It took me months to "train" the guy there, he was happy to get the paint shiny and spend time leathering afterwards. When going to collect the truck, I would run my fingers around the top lip of the wheel arches and there would be a build-up of mud, still there after the wash. After bullying him and coercing him with tips, he's now making the effort to spend more time under the truck than on the surface. it's clean there now and dries out in no time when the weather is not damp and humid all the time.

The 70 seems to suffer more than other models from the arches rusting, so my advice would be to have a friendly chat with your local jetwash operator or better still, to get your own. I have a 280 BAR (3,900 psi) petrol driven jetwash which works well although I would say it's the minimum pressure that you should get, a higher powered one would be even better. I think the commercial units are more like 450 BAR (6,300psi). A little care is needed with high pressure where it can actually strip paint and other protective measures if you're not careful.

Anyway, the long and short of it is to remove the mud trapped in corners, fillets, angles and other paces water goes, leaving deposits behind to rot away your pride and joy. I like to pump a little clean oil into the air vent holes in the chassis members, this creeps around and up the sides of the boxes over time, which helps to repel water sitting in the corners of the boxes and channels. Check that drain holes are free to allow water to escape these areas and to ventilate the boxes and hidden closed areas of bodywork.
 
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Agree with Clive. I've always paid particular attention to the wheel arches. Someone on here got a drain cleaner attachment for their jet wash to clean out chassis box section which I thought a brilliant idea. Keep the mud off and it will last as tin worm is the enemy.

Love this truck. Made me want one now! [emoji6]
 
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Another lesson for our weaker sex.never underestimate the girls
 
As for caring for your vehicle, the biggest offender IMO formed over the 45 years of owning old cars is mud.

It comes in 2 main forms, the obvious from off-roading or even driving up the lane after a tractor has dumped a load of it from the fields, or from a gradual build-up of dirt from the road which will happen to any car even if it never goes off-road.

Everyone seems hell-bent on washing their cars and trucks and getting a shine on the paintwork, cleaning and polishing till it looks like showroom, and that's all very well. However, what is not present on a showroom car or truck is that build-up of mud lodged behind the sills, between the sills and the floor-pan, resting above the return lip of the wheel arches and generally in the spray field behind each wheel. This mud and silt gets wet every time it rains and holds moisture well into the next days, weeks and months (depending on the climate) where water (particularly salt water in the winter) is etching its way into the stone chipped paint which is also prevalent in these same areas of the bodywork. Chassis too gets filled with debris, grit, sand and mud over time, and all these areas need to be regularly washed free of mud to allow them to dry out and stay dry for as long as possible.

Dinitrol, or any other underbody or cavity treatment will, if applied to clean painted (or unpainted) surfaces, resist to some extent moisture from coming into contact with the steel, but a maintenance regime of underbody washing, a well aimed jetwash once a week and after any off-road trip will have the most effect IMO.

I'm out every weekend doing something muddy or dusty in my truck, but every Monday when back in the city, the truck goes to the car-wash and gets a good jetwashing underneath. It took me months to "train" the guy there, he was happy to get the paint shiny and spend time leathering afterwards. When going to collect the truck, I would run my fingers around the top lip of the wheel arches and there would be a build-up of mud, still there after the wash. After bullying him and coercing him with tips, he's now making the effort to spend more time under the truck than on the surface. it's clean there now and dries out in no time when the weather is not damp and humid all the time.

The 70 seems to suffer more than other models from the arches rusting, so my advice would be to have a friendly chat with your local jetwash operator or better still, to get your own. I have a 280 BAR (3,900 psi) petrol driven jetwash which works well although I would say it's the minimum pressure that you should get, a higher powered one would be even better. I think the commercial units are more like 450 BAR (6,300psi). A little care is needed with high pressure where it can actually strip paint and other protective measures if you're not careful.

Anyway, the long and short of it is to remove the mud trapped in corners, fillets, angles and other paces water goes, leaving deposits behind to rot away your pride and joy. I like to pump a little clean oil into the air vent holes in the chassis members, this creeps around and up the sides of the boxes over time, which helps to repel water sitting in the corners of the boxes and channels. Check that drain holes are free to allow water to escape these areas and to ventilate the boxes and hidden closed areas of bodywork.

Many thanks Clive. I live in a rainforest. Very good advice on where the mud/dirt hides out of plain view. I will get back to this. I have some slight confusion in terms but have very little problem finding every nook and cranny.

My Cruiser began it's journey up to me this morning. Husband is taking 3 days to drive...then an 8 hour ferry ride and finally 2 hour drive up the islands (Haida Gwaii)....we/he is learning about this vehicle presently. Yesterday he applied a rubberized undercoat to all the wheel wells to protect the metal. The seller had pressure washed the underside completely to display the fact that there was no hidden rust...so hubby used this undercoating as step two. (step one was rust-proofing with Krown. This appears to be the closest thing to dinitrol application that we get in Canada and is done once a year...)

I do have a gas powered pressure washer with various tips for spray strength...we also have a local self-serve pressure wash station. So I will religiously follow this regimen.

Husband is home Friday/Saturday...I will ask him to read your post and we will both go over the vehicle and your every word/suggestion. I need to understand all this stuff. Let alone all the gauges that are installed on her. Seller said to flip the ECT switch when cruising...so looked that up today. She also has all kinds of other monitoring gauges including an altimeter.....go figure.

Looking for a service manual as well. This will be an ongoing project for me. Husband and I will read your every word and also StarCruiser (below). I have a passionate interest in understanding every nut and bolt and working part. Starting a journey I guess. But I do know how to clean.

Thanks.
 
Agree with Clive. I've always paid particular attention to the wheel arches. Someone on here got a drain cleaner attachment for their jet wash to clean out chassis box section which I thought a brilliant idea. Keep the mud off and it will last as tin worm is the enemy.

Love this truck. Made me want one now! [emoji6]

I am not sure I am understanding your English terms to my Canadian understanding. "Drain cleaner attachment" sounds like something that sucks? water. I will refer this again to husband. It will make him feel very important to be teaching me...with me being a captive audience with my mouth shut.
 
I can't speak for StarCruiser, but I imagined he meant a multi-jet type attachment that jetted water in a number of directions at the same time. It would be ideal inside box sections, where a single jet pointing straight ahead would do little to dislodge mud trapped in the internal angles of the box.

Dont beat yourself up too much trying to "follow every word" of my post, just try to minimize the amount of mud (and hence water) retention in the not-so-easy-to-get-to places under the truck body and chassis.

It's been absolutely bone dry here since June (apart from the first 4 days of the Romania 2015 trip the guys took from the UK visiting me -typical :icon-rolleyes:) so all that's been collecting under the truck has been some dust, but now it's raining, it's time to get the jet washer out again!
 
Exactly what I meant Clive. Was it your thread? Not sure it was, something like ' the best thing ever and it's from Lidl '. Just seemed a cracking idea and will prevent me ever parting with my home made one.
 
Exactly what I meant Clive. Was it your thread? Not sure it was, something like ' the best thing ever and it's from Lidl '. Just seemed a cracking idea and will prevent me ever parting with my home made one.

Thanks for the clarification. I will be looking for a nozzle for this. Seems a good plan. Especially if unable to "lift" the vehicle each wash. (I do have ramps but it does get a bit much).

Seller today told me that it may in fact be a 1991 (produced in 1990 but for 1991 sale)... so I will check the VIN out when it arrives and trace it back. So much to learn. And so many thanks to all here.

zzzz
 
The attachment is usually on the end of a length of hose Zo. Plugs in at the jet wash gun and some are quite cheap nowadays.
 
Exactly what I meant Clive. Was it your thread? Not sure it was, something like ' the best thing ever and it's from Lidl '. Just seemed a cracking idea and will prevent me ever parting with my home made one.

No Rich, not my thread, it was kingtom's IIRC, froggy steve's post #5.
 
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While repairing things recently i have decided my usual degreaser and pressure wash of the engine bay is probably encouraging rather than delaying rust so i intend to investigate products to use after washing , WD-40 springs to mind but there must be something better ?
 
While repairing things recently i have decided my usual degreaser and pressure wash of the engine bay is probably encouraging rather than delaying rust so i intend to investigate products to use after washing , WD-40 springs to mind but there must be something better ?

Tend to agree Shayne, I haven't been using de-greaser, but I've been jet washing the mud spatter away under the bonnet, and some seam rust has become obvious.

I thought of spraying a weak mix of petrol + clean oil, thinking the petrol will evaporate and the thin film of oil left will help stall the tin worm.

But there must be a product that would save the hassle...
 
I ordered something called Calyx today as it doesn't seem right to put the exhaust manifold back in looking as rusty as it does , everything burns off a manifold but it might be good stuff for bolts and things .
 
I've been using ACF50 for a while now http://www.acf-50.co.uk and also Corrosion Block http://www.acf-50.co.uk/corrosion_block.htm on just about all areas of the vehicle. I also use it on the bikes (road and dirt) and I'm impressed with it. For an exhaust manifold the only finish I've ever used that stayed on was Sperex. Very durable once it's properly cured. I cured a bike header in the oven before fitting and subjecting it to full working temp.
 
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