Wanted:1KZTE compressor assembly (88320-35H92)

[Martingray]

https://www.dropbox.com/s/hj90mhp7iwxtih1/Photo Mar 04, 12 27 57 AM.png?dl=0

Looking for new or used clutch magnet off of a 1kzte motor. Thanks for looking

 

[StarCruiser]

Your best bet will probably be a second hand compressor complete. Look for the compressor number on the rear of the unit.

Why do you need it may I ask?

 

[StarCruiser]

Might also be better in the 90 series section rather than classifieds as more people will see it there.

 

[Martingray]

Your best bet will probably be a second hand compressor complete. Look for the compressor number on the rear of the unit.

Why do you need it may I ask?

Mine is shot. The compressor is good but the magnetic clutch is seizing up causing belt squeals. I’ve found brand new replacements for just the clutch but they’re going for $350 and up. I think Toyota brand cost around $500.

 

[StarCruiser]

Mine is shot. The compressor is good but the magnetic clutch is seizing up causing belt squeals. I’ve found brand new replacements for just the clutch but they’re going for $350 and up. I think Toyota brand cost around $500.

This is puzzling. Have you tried stripping it? There’s only a bearing to the pulley which can be replaced from eBay. There’s a thread on here somewhere. Does the pulley cause the belt to slip all the time the engine is running or just when the clutch is pulled in?

 

[leeloo]

try the online parts vendors, I bought a full brand new DENSO AC compressor for a prado 120 with 3 climate
zones for 420 euro.
I bought mine from the german version of the site below
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/

Even you find just the clutch it will be almost the same price, unless you find a second hand unit. Mine had the same issue, the clutch seized

 

[Beau]

I've got a spare complete compressor kicking about, but I won't be able to get it to you till June.

 

[Martingray]

This is puzzling. Have you tried stripping it? There’s only a bearing to the pulley which can be replaced from eBay. There’s a thread on here somewhere. Does the pulley cause the belt to slip all the time the engine is running or just when the clutch is pulled in?

I haven’t tried stripping it. It only seizes when the clutch is pulled in. It was getting worse so I just pulled the belt until I get a replacement. It also started creating a lot of dust.

 

[Martingray]

I don’t know if they’re all the same but I have a 70series. Specifically KZJ78.

 

[StarCruiser]

They are a Denso compressor. They can seize after a while especially if short of gas and therefore oil circulation. This happened to mine and the compressor was seized solid.

I doubt the pulley is the problem with yours. The plate at the front with a bolt in the middle is the compressor drive. Try moving that with grips or ideally your hand. It should turn fairly easily but with a bit of resistance. If not it’s almost certainly the compressor that is seized.

 

[Martingray]

They are a Denso compressor. They can seize after a while especially if short of gas and therefore oil circulation. This happened to mine and the compressor was seized solid.

I doubt the pulley is the problem with yours. The plate at the front with a bolt in the middle is the compressor drive. Try moving that with grips or ideally your hand. It should turn fairly easily but with a bit of resistance. If not it’s almost certainly the compressor that is seized.

Thanks for the tip. I thought about that too but it only happens when clutch is engaged. The pulley is also very loose and wobbly and the compressor drive turns smooth. I may be wrong though.

 

[StarCruiser]

There are two possibilities for the pulley being loose and wobbly.

1, the circlip holding the pulley onto the nose of the compressor has come off and the pulley and it’s bearing have rotated on the nose, wearing it down, or
2, the bearing in the centre of the pulley has collapsed, which could cause a lock up, followed by 1, above.

Both could mean a scrap compressor unless you’ve been really fortunate and had 2, but not 1, …
Strip down (it’s only one bolt) essential really to avoid one of the golden rules of troubleshooting ‘don’t condemn a part until it is proven faulty’.

 

[Martingray]

There are two possibilities for the pulley being loose and wobbly.

1, the circlip holding the pulley onto the nose of the compressor has come off and the pulley and it’s bearing have rotated on the nose, wearing it down, or
2, the bearing in the centre of the pulley has collapsed, which could cause a lock up, followed by 1, above.

Both could mean a scrap compressor unless you’ve been really fortunate and had 2, but not 1, …
Strip down (it’s only one bolt) essential really to avoid one of the golden rules of troubleshooting ‘don’t condemn a part until it is proven faulty’.

Thanks for getting my lazy butt out and take it apart. Looks like I’ll be needing a whole new compressor. Once I removed the pulley, parts fell out. The snap ring that holds the pulley no longer has a lip to hold it in place. That’s what broke, and that’s part of the compressor.

 

[Martingray]

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3008kdq48v4ydw6/IMG_6482.JPG?dl=0

 

[StarCruiser]

Well done. It’s always best to check these things before ordering bits. I think @frank rabbets had this happen and rebuilt his compressor. https://www.landcruiserclub.net/com...c-replaces-seized-10pa-15l-compressor.143961/
Or at least it has been mentioned.
Post up a thread asking for a seized compressor or good front plate and swap the front part of the casing. You’ve all that’s needed in the thread I linked to to do this and it’s not difficult. What you will need to do is get an independent refrigeration engineer to recover the gas before you start work, then when you’re finished vac out the system and regas it for you whatever you end up doing but that will give you a fully working system.

I had mine seize and replaced it. I’ll have a look and see if I’ve retained the front plate as a spare. I’m not confident I did but if I did you can have it if you’re sure the compressor turns ok. A new drier is a good idea and you must seal the ends of any pipes you remove with tape or better still put plastic bags over and tape them to the pipes to stop moisture in the air being absorbed into the system.

 

[TonyP]

Worth checking on Opieoil's site too as u got mine from there for my 120, cheapest I could find at the time.

 

[Chris]

I rebuilt mine recently. And did one for someone else. It's actually quite simple. But the parts do need to be an exact match. There are quite a few differences that aren't necessarily obvious. The rebuild kit isn't that expensive but the front seal which is separate is like £50! I new compressor is the simple way to go but there are plenty of scrap ones lying around. If you go down this route, there are 3 large O rings to replace. My engineer told me to put new seals in but also to use some silicon gasket too. I've done two now and they've been as good as gold.

 

[leeloo]

an Ac compressor can reach 500 Celsius easy. It is one of the parts who does not fail often, 10 years is an reasonable life for a part who goes to such extrem temperature differences. In many cases they last even longer if you service it properly, for example to replace the oil in it and top off the refrigerant every 3 years, 2 even better. Takes like 15 min and it i very cheap.
When the car is new, they are very expensive, but they are reasonably priced for old cars like ours.
I would not want to go even in Spain, let alone Africa with an AC compressor that I can't count on..

 

[StarCruiser]

The problem now Leeloo is the refrigerant has gone sky high price here. I think it doubled about this time last year.

 

[Beau]

How much is the stuff these days? I did mine myself couple years ago and $30 worth of R134A plus $5 PAG oil and it's been good as new. And I'd suspect the stuff is cheaper in Bulk.