Webasto Install questions pooling advice.

[Alrightchief]

Hi again all.

Im installing a parking heater a webasto Z same as a C,

Any way ill be making a nice loom to look factory and fitting it in series after the 2kw viscous heater.

I have two main issues!

1)Finding the best way to switch the cabin heater matrix fan on via the webasto

2)Fueling the webasto! I don't want to drop the tank and install a new line... where do I T in? I have thought about a 1 litre tank on the return line to fill up and then go back to the tank and a small feed to the webasto from that tank, It will always have two hours worth of fuel with 1 litre but I would like a better option.

Thanks

 

[Michael Clark]

Ive just installed a webasto thermo top (in my build thread here: https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/threads/my-hdj80-overland-build.150442/)

1. Fan - are you running an independent matrix fan or using the under seat fan? I will be using an independent one and just switching it on and off via the front panel as many of switches on the front

2. Get a fuel pick up pipe - £25. You can fit it into the inspection hatch (where the other pipes come out of the tank). Better than a T which can cause some issues. (assuming its similar to the 80 series)

 

[StarCruiser]

What are the issues a T can cause on an 80, Michael?

 

[Michael Clark]

Nothing major just possible air in the system (drawing back from the webasto pump) and introducing a potential failure point (any aftermarket mod) in the OEM system. Its so easy to keep it all separate for the sake of 25 quid.

 

[StarCruiser]

Hmmm, thanks for that Michael. I’ve had a lumpy engine just up off idle but goes like a train otherwise. Didn’t happen before I teed off the main fuel line. Think I’ll try and remove it even though I have a tap in line.
@karl webster, can you send me a fuel hose from filter to pump please.

 

[Michael Clark]

Yes you just dont know if any air is getting in the system when the vehicle if left. When you start fuel has air in but then clears. Normally you have a pipe in tank sealed all the way to the fuel pump. With a T you have the "Bernouli" effect which can suck back from the webasto pump when the engine is started

 

[uHu]

There's no problem with connecting the pump to the return. I connected mine to the return, after the fuel vibration damper, as recommended by the installer where I bought the heater. Has been working perfectly for 3 years, both for the Webasto and for the engine.

For cabin heat, you can connect 2 change-over relays to the main fan.

Mine is a Termo Top Evo.

PS: The viscous heater is only 1.4 kW.

 

[Alrightchief]

No matrix, going to be plumbed into the coolant hoses, I need to find the correct wires to send power to the heater fan to warm the cabin.

There's no problem with connecting the pump to the return. I connected mine to the return, after the fuel vibration damper, as recommended by the installer where I bought the heater. Has been working perfectly for 3 years, both for the Webasto and for the engine.

For cabin heat, you can connect 2 change-over relays to the main fan.

Mine is a Termo Top Evo.

PS: The viscous heater is only 1.4 kW.

Super thanks for that uHu!

That sounds excellent for the fuel tap in! Looking forward to the pics!

I need todo some research on the wiring! Have you completed that yourself or is it just a block heater? I’m thinking is it worth disturbing things and the extra work when i will be perfectly happy just having the engine warm for starting and having instant hot air! Only take less than a minute to take the cold away with the fans on HI

 

[StarCruiser]

The simplest thing is to use a relay to supply 12v direct to the fan. The connections to the fan are easily accessible (on an 80, not sure about the 100), you probably only need to isolate the input to prevent back feeds so a single changeover relay of sufficient current rating would be ideal. Speed may be another thing as you probably wouldn’t want the fan on high. This might involve having a look at a wiring diagram and is probably just a tap into the fan speed resistor located in the fan ducting. Switch the relay from a 12v output on your webasto (fused at 2A) via a thermostat and on/off switch and you’ve got a nice little central heating system.

 

[uHu]

(Instead of running 2 threads parallell on this issue, I have moved my effort here.)
The Webasto Termo Top Evo I installed nearly 3 years ago has been working perfectly well ever since. I installed a remote start with a sim-card, so I send a text message to tell it when to start: Either just "Start", which means it will run for up to 2 hrs; or "Start 0730", which means "I want to start driving at 07.30, please have the car warm by then". It will then calculate when to start heating, based on current temperature and the recorded, experienced heat-up time.

For fuel, there's no problem with connecting the pump to the fuel return line. I connected mine to the return, after the fuel vibration damper, as recommended by the installer where I bought the heater. Has been working perfectly for 3 years, both for the Webasto and for the engine.
For cabin heat, you can connect 2 change-over relays to the main fan.

Here's a few pics from today. This is a LHD 2004 LC100, might look different on a RHD. I moved the EDU and the return damper slightly to make room.

If you want the cabin warm as well, the fan needs a double relay, and a resistor, because of the way its wired in the 100. On this fan-pic, the cloth-tape wires are a part of the Webasto relay-unit loom.

The relay unit came with 1 change-over relay, but had a socket for a second one, which I added. On the 100-series, the fan supply electronic switch is on the positive side, while the regulator is on the minus (or was it vice versa), which means that you need a relay on each side.
The main fan will run on full blast if connected directly, that is 12 Amps, 144 watts. I.e. the resistance is 1 ohm. I used two 1 ohm resistors in series, giving 4 amps, which is still a bit on the high side, not really needed. I used two webasto resistors - cost a fortune. I later found two 6 ohm resistors for 1/100 of the cost, which I plan on connecting in parallell, giving 3 ohms, which then goes in series with the fan, giving a total of 4 ohms, and a 3 amp draw. That should be more than adequate.
The fusebox/block for the Webasto I put next to the RHS battery, because the nicely made loom that came with it had a perfect length for it , and I found a good spot there. Also made a short run for connecting to the fan control unit (relay block) which is also on the RHS under the dash.
More pics in the next post.

 

[uHu]

Preparing the "building site":

The Evo is a small package:

Doesn't stick up over anything else:

Fuel T on the return line from the engine:

Overview:

Two fuses next to RHS battery:

Fan resistors on the negative supply:

 

[uHu]

Btw, the remote control has an Aux output, which can be used to select to have the heater fan running, or not. The fan takes as much power as the heater itself (4 amps each), so if, e.g., I've been on a 3 day skiing trip and returning to the car, I would perhaps not risk drawing 8 Ah, but 4 Ah could be OK (if running the heater for 1 hour).
In wintery conditions, with the fan on, it will melt all snow on the windows. Without the fan on, the snow would have to be removed by hand, but there would be some icing at the bottom of the windscreen because of heat rising up from the heater core.

 

[Alrightchief]

Excellent! I would like to do the fan but I think for me a simple installation for just the engine block and matrix & then later add the fan control! we don't get bad snow here but it would be nice to clear it, like you say. I will look for the cheap resistors.

 

[uHu]

Relatively cheap resistors:
https://www.dx.com/p/50w-6ohm-car-u...or-protector-for-led-lamp-382682#.W56Hzt8VRhF

 

[Alrightchief]

Great stuff!

But unfortunately I’m having major issues with actually getting the webasto to run!

Iv serviced and checked everything over

I have three units! One with a blown thermistor on the board. One that’s starts running the fan when powered up then nothing

The next I power up nothing happens until I feed 12v to the correct start pin.

So looks like I need the diagnostics software!

 

[uHu]

Can't help you much there. I'd like to know how to connect to diagnostics as well. The day will come when I need service...
One piece of advice tho', from the pros: The worst thing for a webasto (or Eber) is to run short intervals. When it has started, it should run until fully heated up. In a normal car install, that means at least 20-30 mins.

 

[uHu]

...The next I power up nothing happens until I feed 12v to the correct start pin.

Sounds good then. It shouldn't start until it gets a start signal.

 

[Alrightchief]

Can't help you much there. I'd like to know how to connect to diagnostics as well. The day will come when I need service...
One piece of advice tho', from the pros: The worst thing for a webasto (or Eber) is to run short intervals. When it has started, it should run until fully heated up. In a normal car install, that means at least 20-30 mins.

Thanks... The diagnostics i think is pretty simple two wires , one on "the white with red trace pin 2 diagnostics wire" and the other on earth... thats for the thermo top z/c anyway.

Iv ordered a kit from ebay so I will let you know how I get on.

 

[Alrightchief]

Sounds good then. It shouldn't start until it gets a start signal.

yes fingers crossed iv been doing some repairs today... one board is scrap so Iv been testing between all three and taking components from it and installing on the other two very very tight small work.. Im waiting on the software and test lead..

 

[uHu]

Is that a diode you're pointing at?
Where do you get the diag-software? Costly?