yes, they are a big outfit, i was hoping they had a complete used assembly but they havnt. ive been told they have various separate parts in stock, but im still waiting for them to get back to me as to what they have....
went car shopping today..
- Thread starter chapel gate
- Start date
I presume you've been onto Atkinson Vos and South Cave Tractors ?
Might be worth a look: https://www.unimog-community.de
In German but google translate helps. There is a forum.
In German but google translate helps. There is a forum.
Those ball bearings are made of sturdy stuff (I've had bits of ball bearings in Toyota Transfer Boxes) !
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You won't want to hear this . . . But I suggest you strip the other side and replace the bearings
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Good luck with the parts search, I feel your pain.
Bob.
.You won't want to hear this . . . But I suggest you strip the other side and replace the bearings
.Good luck with the parts search, I feel your pain.
Bob.
your right bob, and the ticking time bomb that potentially is the other three portals has been nagging at me.
i base lined all the fluids in the vehicle as soon as i got it. the portals had been stuffed with grease. this sort of lazy "maintenance" really pisses me off. no doubt they used grease as they had started to leak a little. thing is they only take 600ml of EP gear oil. you could change that stuff out every month for what it costs!
ive got some reasonable priced fully synthetic oil that can be used in the portals, gearbox and diffs to keep it simple. ive also put it in the 80 gearbox and trans box, might put it in the diffs too.
had a lovely conversation with a dutch couple tonight, i say couple as the owd chap didnt speak english, so his wife was translating everything whist we were on the phone. so might have sourced the two gears and housing second hand, which is by far the bulk of the cost.
i base lined all the fluids in the vehicle as soon as i got it. the portals had been stuffed with grease. this sort of lazy "maintenance" really pisses me off. no doubt they used grease as they had started to leak a little. thing is they only take 600ml of EP gear oil. you could change that stuff out every month for what it costs!
ive got some reasonable priced fully synthetic oil that can be used in the portals, gearbox and diffs to keep it simple. ive also put it in the 80 gearbox and trans box, might put it in the diffs too.
had a lovely conversation with a dutch couple tonight, i say couple as the owd chap didnt speak english, so his wife was translating everything whist we were on the phone. so might have sourced the two gears and housing second hand, which is by far the bulk of the cost.
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That sounds like a result - well done.
More pictures please - every day is a School Day !
Bob.
More pictures please - every day is a School Day !
Bob.
Shipping costs look extortionate that got to include a blue light escort
yeah, not sure what the shipping quotes were about.
i have sorted out the shipping from here, as albert didnt want to be involved with any custom forms etc.
could of got the whole lot shipped over for about 40 quid, but i went with super fast airmail rather than by road to avoid any potential hold ups. came in at £75. i want this up and running again asap.
i have sorted out the shipping from here, as albert didnt want to be involved with any custom forms etc.
could of got the whole lot shipped over for about 40 quid, but i went with super fast airmail rather than by road to avoid any potential hold ups. came in at £75. i want this up and running again asap.
drained the moly/gear oil mix on the other portal.
no chips of metal but bearing wear fragments. this was from the magnet on the drain plug;
no chips of metal but bearing wear fragments. this was from the magnet on the drain plug;
I received them on the Tuesday just before dinner.
Bearings and seals arrived on the same day from South cave tractors. Good company to do business with and very knowledgeable.
Very pleased with the condition of the gears, bearing surfaces are excellent.
Fitted small gear bearing and large gear bearing into housing. They go in nicely with a copper drift and gentle tapping.
Turn the assembly over and press the large gear into the bearing, this was a little tricky tbh.
That cavalier front wheel bearing I changed 20 years ago was just the right size!
Turn back over and you can see the end of the gear pressed through the bearing.
Play is taken out with a couple of shims and held together with a circlip.
Turn the assembly over and press the large gear into the bearing, this was a little tricky tbh.
That cavalier front wheel bearing I changed 20 years ago was just the right size!
Turn back over and you can see the end of the gear pressed through the bearing.
Play is taken out with a couple of shims and held together with a circlip.
Turn back over. The large roller bearing has a plastic "assembly ring". Keeps all of the rollers from rolling all over the workshop floor..
Taps in nicely again.
Idiot!
That bit of molly grease in one of the bolt holes, was actually a broken bolt...
Luckily it came out pretty easy.
Tomorrow fit the seal and start on the top gear.
Taps in nicely again.
Idiot!
That bit of molly grease in one of the bolt holes, was actually a broken bolt...
Luckily it came out pretty easy.
Tomorrow fit the seal and start on the top gear.
Hub seal fitted, these are called a cassette seal, inner and outer sections are fixed and the seal rotates within itself.
Deep groove bearing pressed onto the top gear.
"wear ring" fitted and circlip. The wear ring is a good design, this is what the axle tube seal rides on, so no wear on the half shaft, and when wear occurs the ring can be replaced.
The whole unit taps in nicely.
New drain, fill and level plugs fitted.
4 and 3/4" of lift.
Must be tea time..
Deep groove bearing pressed onto the top gear.
"wear ring" fitted and circlip. The wear ring is a good design, this is what the axle tube seal rides on, so no wear on the half shaft, and when wear occurs the ring can be replaced.
The whole unit taps in nicely.
New drain, fill and level plugs fitted.
4 and 3/4" of lift.
Must be tea time..
New axle tube seal fitted, halfshaft popped back in.
Smear with sealant, and bolt back up. Weights about 30 kg.
Long overdue investment in a bigger torque wrench. Caliper bolts are 400nm, wheel nuts 350nm.
Good time to fit the new handbrake actuator I've had under the bench for a while.
The old one began to leak air due to corrosion, the two part putty did a good temporary repair.
Once air pressure has built up it overcomes a large spring in the actuator, releasing the brake pads. So as a fail safe, if air pressure is lost the brake pads are slowly applied.
Then, the end of the world began...
Smear with sealant, and bolt back up. Weights about 30 kg.
Long overdue investment in a bigger torque wrench. Caliper bolts are 400nm, wheel nuts 350nm.
Good time to fit the new handbrake actuator I've had under the bench for a while.
The old one began to leak air due to corrosion, the two part putty did a good temporary repair.
Once air pressure has built up it overcomes a large spring in the actuator, releasing the brake pads. So as a fail safe, if air pressure is lost the brake pads are slowly applied.
Then, the end of the world began...
Proper torque wrench & really good landscape photo = good post.
Then, the end of the world began...
That's because you've got a dirty great big diesel engine in the Mog ......
That's because you've got a dirty great big diesel engine in the Mog ......
i thought it was pretty good value at £150 delivered. has a 90 degree angle gauge on it too, which i thought was a good idea.