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Where to get the Rear Diff Lock Detection Switch from.

The saga continues. Been with my mechanical man this afternoon and we have almost solved the problem almost.

Took out the diff lock switch next to the locker, connected the wires back to it, pushed in the end and bingo the red light on the dash went from flashing to solid. Conclusion, the switch is A1 ok.

Tried the diff locker, but no sound or movement to be seen. Gave it the old one two with a rubber mallet still no sound or movement. Removed the electrical connection and tested the end for power. No power observed. Conclusion, the actuator will not work without power. Ha ha. Maybe the diff switch on the dash is to blame, maybe a broken wire. The diff fuse was ok by the way.

We are now waiting for the auto electrician to attend before going the whole hog and ordering a new locker. Maybe the old one (if faulty) and when we get power to it will repair, as it looks amazingly clean on the outside.

Phil*
 
It's been said many times before but when there is an issue with the rear locker it is VERY seldom anything apart from the locker itself. Easiest test is with another locker. You plug that into the dangling loom and try it. Easy if you have a spare to hand. Getting a reading off it isn't the easiest of things. It relies on all sorts of circuits. If it looks really clean that that is a very encouraging sign. Slacken the four mounting bolts. Put it in low range and turn the dial again. It's a very small motor turning a worm gear to get the torque. But if the main gear is dry or binding, the little motor just isn't going to turn. We have had people find an electrical cause, but it's exceedingly uncommon.
 
Thanks for the extra advice Chris, it's good to find someone who can help you on your way.

Phil*
 
The saga ends, bad news (for me) the actuator is kaput. Oh bugger. Been down to Milners and bought a brand new shiny one. That's emptied the bank. Still if we get 10 foot of snow I should be ok with my locked rear diff.

Phil*
 
Awe, shite. Been to Milners, what physically? So where are you? So helpful if you put your location int he sidebar you know. I'm 10 mins from Milner.
 
Bit late to the story but our very own Karl does new actuators cheaper than Milners so I understand
 
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I would not mind if the Actuator was a precision made part, but it's a bloody wiper motor with a spindle on it when all said and done.

Phil*
 
Awe, shite. Been to Milners, what physically? So where are you? So helpful if you put your location int he sidebar you know. I'm 10 mins from Milner.



Aye, me and the missus and twa dogs had a ride out to Milners. When I got back, the guy who was fitting it had gone to another job - bloody marvellous.

Phil*
 
Fyi, when the diif lock on my 80 didn't work, it turned out that the housing of the actuator was completely corroded and filled up with sand and the wiring loom and one of the relays in the DL ECU were literally fried. When the actuator jammed, it kept drawing current and melted the insulation of the wires from the DL until the contacts in the relay melted down as well.
I replaced the actuator, repaired the loom and soldered a new relay on the print board. Worked fine since then.
 

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Could someone tell me where the Diff Lock ECU is on the 100-Series please (2001 VX) ??

The Max Ellery Manual isn't very helpful on the subject.

The wiring diagram shows a couple of fuses but without any details. All the fuses under the bonnet are OK - is there another secret fusebox somewhere ??

My new locker doesn't work and I need to trace the wiring back . . When No. 1 daughter stops using the truck for horse towing that is :icon-rolleyes:.

Thanks.

Bob.
 
RHS kick panel. That would be to the right of your accelerator-foot, on a RHD.

From aug 2002 production it moved over to the LHS, for RHD vehicles only.

The diff fuse is behind the left side kick panel, on a pre aug 2002 prod.

PS: Both the Ellery and the Haynes manuals are useless for most things 100.
 
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Many thanks uHu - that's a great help.

I had a look in behind the centre panel (radio & heater controls) and in behind the glove box but its got more wires than a Jumbo Jet and I don't like poking around without knowing what I'm looking for :lol:.

When it stops raining, and I've cleaned-out the horse trailer and washed the '100' after last night's late horse competition, I'll have a look.

I agree with you re. the Ellery Manual :icon-rolleyes:.

:thumbup:

Bob.
 
Bummer . . The Diff Lock 20A fuse is OK :icon-evil:.

Also, the cigar lighter socket is dead, but its 15A fuse is also OK .

All the wiring looks untouched and A-OK, so time for some serious investigation :icon-rolleyes:.

Bob.
 
Bummer . . The Diff Lock 20A fuse is OK :icon-evil:.

Also, the cigar lighter socket is dead, but its 15A fuse is also OK .

All the wiring looks untouched and A-OK, so time for some serious investigation :icon-rolleyes:.

Bob.

I don't know about the dif-lock circuits, but often the cigarette lighter circuit has an in-line fuse as well. Never understood the logic of having 2 fuses in a circuit, but there you go.
 
The 15A Cig fuse is fed from the 20A AM1 No2 fuse, which has power with the key turned one step (Acc).

The Diff.lock control is also depending on the 15A Gauge fuse. (Power only with ign on).

I can't see any connection between the two tho' (Ciggy and diff.L) that wouldn't affect a host of other areas.
 
In the 90-Series there is a 'fusible link' behind the power sockets. I'm guessing the '100-Series' has the same.

I'll investigate.

Bob.
 
Sorry to be a while before reporting the end result of my post, (operation in hospital, all ok now).

With the new diff locker fitted all is well with my cruiser. At last.

My only small problem now is the steering wheel does not go in/out or up/down, but I read it is a regular problem and for the cost of the two motors I think I will be leaving it as it stands.

Best Regards to all - and a Happy and Prosperous New Year as well.

Phil*
 
Waking up this thread - as I need to get a new indicator switch for the rear locker - the one at the start of this thread.
Do you have the part number?

I can't find it in the parts list. Could it be the same as the indicator switch for the centre locker? That one is 84222-60090.

Edit:
Did a backwards search, and found the same part number used in the rear locker, but it's only listed for the UZJ - Nothing about the HDJ.
 
Waking up this thread - as I need to get a new indicator switch for the rear locker - the one at the start of this thread.
Do you have the part number?

I can't find it in the parts list. Could it be the same as the indicator switch for the centre locker? That one is 84222-60090.

uHu,

You have the correct part number:


DSCN3456_zpsf8424132.jpg



I fitted this to my 2001 HDJ100.

£56.72 + VAT + carriage from Simon :thumbup:.

Bob.
 
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