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Who is doing what maintenance today?

Ditto this. The longest lasting stuff I've found was Por-15 rust converter and then the Por-15 paint. If prepared to the letter of the instructions that sat on my old Series Land Rover suspension components unblemished for a few years until I sold it. But the prep was a pain, and the stuff going off in the tin was a pain.

I did a load using Dinitrol RC900 last year, but theres already a few rust patches poking through the Dinitrol wax that went on top of that.

This year I've started using Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80. Brushes clean up in water. A little bit in a jar badly sealed with clingfilm (no lid) doesn't go off. And the finish looks very like the stuff Shayne is using. Time will tell!

My biggest problem is always getting all the mud and then dust off. I can jetwash an area 2 or 3 times and still find bits of grit when I'm painting which no product likes.

Should also add I tend to spray on most of my paint. I found the thin coats hold up more durable then brushing. About 3-4 coats. Also gets in area's which may have been more difficult with just a brush and leaves a really smooth finish. My most recent touch up below....
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My approach is pretty much the opposite Beau i figure a light coat and if it does what it says on the tin then happy days and i will touch up as and when .

But if it doesn't i want to see the rust before it becomes advanced so i can strip it back to clean metal and use cold galvanize (that Zinga stuff is expensive and doesn't go far at all)

Jet washing is almost pointless i used a paintbrush and dychem super limate to wash down . If i knew of a river nearby i could park in for a few hours first i'd have done it and i have long wondered at getting a garden sprinkler to throw under my truck .
 
My jet wash on a fine nozzle will strip good paint off a well keyed surface.

It will remove loose rust, but I don't think it would match a grit-blast or a wire brush on established rust.
 
The thing with rust is any form of protection tends to be better than nothing. There are some products out there that can make rust worse when they encourage a build up of moisture for the rust to feed off. But in most cases if you're coating rust on a yearly bases it'll keep it from getting out of hand.

Worth mentioning that these yota's don't actually come with a good OEM coating, what a shame really. In the US here a bunch of toyota's from around 1995 - 2004 have been recalled due to poor undercoating, and chassis rotting out quicker than they should. Back home (UK) my dad had alongside the cruiser had a 2003 VW Golf which he ran for a good 7 years clocking 30k miles annually. Other than the exhaust rotting through, the underside looked a couple years old at most. And we would do nothing to this thing, hardly washed it and thrashed it on the road. Great little car really...

Are newer landcruisers coming with better factory undercoating?
 
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Are newer landcruisers coming with better factory undercoating?

NO reading the regular gripes on here about finding a post 2000 truck with an "acceptable" amount of rust it seems its gotten worse rather than better .
 
the 120 underbody coating is very poor compared to my colorado. when i first got my 120, i dropped the spare wheel and sorted surface rust straight away. i have also painted various parts around the front end.
 
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I've adopted a different approach and been using this stuff for a while http://www.acf-50.co.uk/automotive.htmand I'm more satisfied with it than anything I've used previously and it's dead easy to apply if you have a compressor and spray gun.
 
https://www.amazon.co.uk/ACF-50-Ant...3831956&sr=8-8&keywords=acf-50+anti+corrosion

I had decided to give my calipers a coat of hammerite when they returned from Biggred , to my mind its a sacrificial coating but if someone can suggest something they know to be better ?
I have to say shane, ive only had poor results with hammerite.
The 2 part epoxy paints with correct prep are the way to go according to a couple of restoration shops ive been speaking to around here.
 
I had given up on painting the calipers , specific paint is rubbished all over the internet and buying 2 litres of 2 pack to throw most of it away just goes against the grain .

But a penny dropped somewhere in the abyss an hour ago so I've been investigating Humbrol enamel and as far as i can tell its still oil based and it can be bought in 120ml tins .

Sounds like a fair bet to me unless any paint clever people out there can tell me otherwise ?

How much to buy for 4 calipers ?
 
I had given up on painting the calipers , specific paint is rubbished all over the internet and buying 2 litres of 2 pack to throw most of it away just goes against the grain .

But a penny dropped somewhere in the abyss an hour ago so I've been investigating Humbrol enamel and as far as i can tell its still oil based and it can be bought in 120ml tins .

Sounds like a fair bet to me unless any paint clever people out there can tell me otherwise ?

How much to buy for 4 calipers ?

Would it be worth plating them the kits and supplies are reasonably inexpensive and you can use it to rust proof lots of other bits and bobs.
I have fancied getting a kit myself but have not got round to it yet.
 
The calipers are still in a box from a Biggred rebuild so spotlessly clean and painted already but i can see rust pores showing in the paint (standard finish) from the ones they did last year so i would like to add a hard glaze to these ones before they go back on .
 
2x120ml would probably be plenty for 2 coats per caliper?
 
Cheers Chadr ,

I'm now having difficulty finding next day delivery :icon-rolleyes:
 
You dont need to throw away any 2 pack paint, just mix the amount required, thats the good thing about it. it wont skin over on you when stored like oil paint.
 
I got the last two 120ml tins on the way to me now Joe . 2 litres of 2 pack was about the smallest i could find and i know most of it would get shifted daily around my coal shed until i finally decided to throw it in a skip . It will be interesting to see how this humbrol holds up anyway , it takes 4 days at room temp to fully dry apparently .
 
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