Wobbly Crank Pulley

[james ryan]

Finally had the truck out for a long drive (100km), loving it but developed a wobbly crankshaft pulley!

Not much access and 'bolt' looks more like a fly nut. I'm guessing i can't just tighten up and the radiator has to come off?

 

[grantw]

Is that the harmonic balancer?

I’m not familiar with the 40series but on an 80 it can lead to quite a bit of damage when they fail

 

[Rodger]

The crank pulley bolt on a 3B (I am assuming it's a 3B, if not let me know) needs to be torqued to 177 ft lbs which is difficult to do without the necessary tool to stop the crank turning. But a diesel specialist will have the necessary tool and torque wretch of sufficient poundage.
needs to be done as the nose of the pulley sits into the timing gear cover via an oil seal.

Hope that helps.

Regards,

Rodger

 

[james ryan]

The crank pulley bolt on a 3B (I am assuming it's a 3B, if not let me know) needs to be torqued to 177 ft lbs which is difficult to do without the necessary tool to stop the crank turning. But a diesel specialist will have the necessary tool and torque wretch of sufficient poundage.
needs to be done as the nose of the pulley sits into the timing gear cover via an oil seal.

Hope that helps.

Regards,

Rodger

Morning Roger,

Thanks

Its a 2F, I have copies of the old manuals with torques etc, sadly doesn't tell me the basic stuff like how to get to it and what to look for, i.e. does it just need tightening or is it more fundamental.

All the manuals and parts lists I have are micro fische or photo copies of USA market originals and from around the mid 70s. Hoping they're appropriate for my truck (Japan import 1977).

I'm guessing i have to take the radiator off? Had a look round yesterday and seems fairly simple.

I did notice that whoever had the truck previously when fitting spot lights decided to run them under the grill so the grill is now several cm hig,h meaning the 'Toyota' isn't centred. Must have been the same person who put the bezel on upside down... no idea what else I'm going to find out!

 

[StarCruiser]

From a generic standpoint, with something this critical, I would remove everything you need to get to it, front grille, radiator whatever so you have it in front of you. Get a new bolt if you can. The correct one, as the one that’s there has clearly had some damage. Remove and carefully inspect the pulley and crank stub for damage. Inspect the key and key ways, they should be tight with no play. Inspect/change any oil seals.
Once satisfied that there is no damage, or any sustained isn’t going to affect the fit (you can carefully file down any burrs to make a snug fit) then refit the pulley following the manual or advice given on here. Only then will you know that it won’t happen again and potentially lose oil and destroy your engine.

 

[Rodger]

Morning James,

The bezel is on the right way as it covers the bonnet release handle, so maybe when you are sorting the crank pulley you could adjust the wiring path and get it down a bit, although from the photo it looks about right.

The book I have covers the 2F and the torque setting for the crank pulley is 130 ft lbs. but to get to it the radiator has to come out which is not a bad job.
Release the 5 (or 6) bolts on each side (they should have captive nuts or sleeves and lower it forward on the front hinge and rest it on the winch. The rad and cowl will need to be separated but all the bolts are engine side with none below and obviously the hoses. The rad will pull out vertically and then the cowl will pull forward around the fan and then up and out.
You will need to stop the crank turning to torque the crank pulley bolt. Check that there is no oil leakage from the seal otherwise you will need to replace it. If that is the case then I can scan the relevant pages in my manual and post them on here as it involves heating the timing case cover and bolts which have three different lengths.
The only reason for releasing the front panel is that it makes getting the rad and cowl out easier but it is one of those where you need a couple of extra arms when refitting.

Hope that helps, but if you need any further information etc, just ask.

Regards,

Rodger

 

[Rodger]

Sorry I made an error.

The timing cover refitting does not involve heating (that's on a 3B) and there only 2 sizes of bolts.

But I would suggest when you tighten the nut that you also use some Loctite having checked it for burrs etc as SC says.

Regards,

Rodger

 

[Rodger]

Looking at your chart and then comparing to my manual

Regards,

Rodger