Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them

Worth getting a 120, and if so which one?

ManOfTheWest

Active Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2017
Messages
64
Country Flag
wales
Evening all. I’m considering replacing my Citroen Berlingo Multispace with a Land Cruiser at some point over the next twelve months. I live at the end of a long, badly rutted track with a ford halfway along it that floods to a couple of feet deep several times every winter, which is a problem given that the kids need to get to school. I have a Land Rover Defender Hi-Cap pickup, of which I’m very fond and which has no problems with the track (or anything else), but it isn’t really suited to either children or passengers.

I want a proper 4x4, not a crossover, that will be able to handle the track, muddy verges and the occasional field in this part of rural West Wales, that can carry five people in comfort and is reliable enough to travel long distances. Finally, it must be an automatic, because my wife doesn’t have a manual licence.

I’m fond of Defenders for many reasons, but 110 station wagons seem to be getting more expensive every month, and I would need to put in an automatic conversion which would cost thousands of pounds on top of these already elevated prices. And even the fondest user wouldn’t claim that comfort is a strong point of the Defender.

As our Toyota has been extremely reliable - it is now 10 years old and literally nothing has gone wrong with it - I’m considering a Land Cruiser. Decent-looking 120 series with less than 100k miles seem to be coming on the market for less than 10 grand. I have briefly looked at the 100 series, but although attractive they seem physically just a bit too large for the narrow lanes round here. (Are they actually that much bigger than the 120s?)

My main concerns about the 120s are:
  • the air suspension in some models;
  • parts prices;
  • difficulty of DIY spannering (I’m not very good);
  • complicated electronics that may limit my options when it comes to finding a good local independent mechanic.
I would much appreciate any advice regarding the above, what models to consider, a sensible budget, known issues to look out for and so on. I'd like to keep my total spend below £10,000, but I will have some flexibility. Currently I am monitoring eBay trying to get a sense for the market.

Thanks
Dan
 
I know how this thread will go already having done one myself a few weeks back thats now 5 pages long :D
Whoops! I must have missed that I did a quick check of recent topics. Hopefully this will add something to the body of knowledge...?

Incidentally, I have noticed a few Japanese imports that are quite cheap. I know from personal experience that importing a car from Japan (our "Toyota Yaris" is actually a Toyota Vitz that we brought back with us from Tokyo) results in higher insurance premiums. But on the other hand, if the purchase price is low, you'd probably still be ahead I guess. Are the problems with parts availability for, say, a Prado?

Dan
 
Same as UK Colorado except we got a rear diff lock and they got an intercooler .
 
Same as UK Colorado except we got a rear diff lock and they got an intercooler .
So… Colorado potentially a bit better in the rough stuff, the Prado potentially a bit better on the motorway?
 
Last edited:
The intercooler is definitely an advantage as far as driving goes and i doubt very much you will need a rear diff lock unless you actively seek rough terrain .

A 2001/02 Collie will have the newer D4D engine which will give you both plus a lot more power .
 
Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them
Some of the prados had a lsd in the rear I think. can't remember 100% thougg5
 
A 2001/02 Collie will have the newer D4D engine which will give you both plus a lot more power .

Thank you for clearing that up. Looking at the engine in something like this, I see now that the output is significantly less of the later models. On the other hand, it seems to me that Colorado's of that age have all done a lot of miles and quite a few are not automatic either... Finding a good one might be tricky.
 
Miles does not seem to matter too much on a Prado / Colorado as the they are built to last it seems.

I debated going to see that one you have linked and had some more pictures sent to me - if the one I brought today was not so cheap and local id have been on my way to view that one !

I depends how tidy you want it and how many miles you want. For me miles was less of an issue and the main point was something with no rust or body damage :)
 
Must be said Dan there is nothing wrong with the 120 it just boils down to what you are willing to spend . I think we have a 1kz-te 90 on here that has covered over 300,000 miles but they do have something of a rep for cracked heads , the 1KD D4D used in late 90 series is pretty much bomb proof i think but that could be because there are so few of them about ? I think the 120 unless its a very early one uses a 2KD D4D which is likely more refined and perhaps because there are so many about there has been a few on here with engine trouble .

Any Landcruiser is only just run in at 100,000 miles as long as its been cared for .
 
So… Colorado potentially a bit better in the rough stuff, the Prado potentially a bit better on the motorway?

Prado is an import. Could be a 90 or a 120. 90 in the UK is a Colorado. 120 just a Land Cruiser. Both very similar underneath. Equally good off-road. 120 is noticeably quieter on the road.

I'm in the same position as you. Rough track to the house across a couple of streams. A couple of 2000 mile round trips to France every year. 150K miles now on my 120. Bought with 70K. Does the job. Just be aware of injector seals and wearing injectors.

If you can spanner a Defender you can spanner these. 20 quid for a cable and software to read the diagnostics, but you very rarely have to.
 
I'm in the same position as you. Rough track to the house across a couple of streams. A couple of 2000 mile round trips to France every year. 150K miles now on my 120. Bought with 70K. Does the job. Just be aware of injector seals and wearing injectors.
That does sound very similar to my situation. One of the things that concerns me is rust, given that our vehicles go through the ford twice every time we go anywhere. I don't suppose you seen any evidence of that on your vehicle? (I've been reading the horror stories about corrosion in the 100-series part of the forum...)

Thanks
Dan
 
That does sound very similar to my situation. One of the things that concerns me is rust, given that our vehicles go through the ford twice every time we go anywhere. I don't suppose you seen any evidence of that on your vehicle? (I've been reading the horror stories about corrosion in the 100-series part of the forum...)

Thanks
Dan

Clean water is no problem. Mine has an inch of mud stuck to it within 20 minutes of jet washing it clean. I think that does the damage. They do rust, and so do the 90s (and 100s). You just need to buy a decent one, jet wash underneath it most weekends in the winter, and put aside a day or two [1] every year to clean, rust treat and repaint all you can underneath.

Pain points are the brackets on the axle casing, they have drain holes but clog easily. And the chassis mounts for the top control arms. On the 90 the top control arms tear the brackets off the axle. My experience is that on the 120 they tear the brackets off the chassis. Both need new brackets fabricating, so the best action is to make sure they're kept fairly clean and looked at every year.

Other than that I've had to weld a couple of small patches on the sills. Keep the sill drain slots clear and maybe a squirt of cavity wax in the factory supplied, grmotted holes should avoid that.

When I got mine it was pretty decent underneath such that I thought I won't bother doing anything other than jet wash it for a few years and the rust sort of crept up on me. If I was doing it again I'd be finding a good one and getting rust treatment on it straight away. Something like Dinitrol underbody wax. Not Waxoyl.


[1] Not full days. 30 mins to jet wash it and let it dry for a day. An hour to rust treat and let it cure / dry. An hour to paint. 30 mins to wax / seal. But I can't drive it for 2 or 3 days or I'll get it wet and muddy.
 
Only the top spec lc5 120 has the air suspension, plus it has integrated satnav and heating controls which makes it impossible to swap the sat nav. I purposely went for the lc4 model when I got mine a couple of years ago, no air suspension to go wrong plus I easily swapped out the old radio/CD player for an up to date sat nav unit.
 
I dont mind the lc5. The navigation system was easy enough to upgrade. The airbags havent been a problem and they have seen a bit of mud on and off.

Also, if the lc4 has the TENS shocks you may find they are about the same price as the air suspension bits.
 
I dont mind the lc5. The navigation system was easy enough to upgrade. The airbags havent been a problem and they have seen a bit of mud on and off.

Also, if the lc4 has the TENS shocks you may find they are about the same price as the air suspension bits.


I stand corrected :eusa-naughty:
 
yes I too live up a rough track with a water crossing - maybe we can have our own section on the forum?.I have a 95 so no ideas about the 120. The only thing I would add is that if you buy a 10 year old LC be prepared to invest as it will be on mostly original components & regular off roading & water crossing will shorter their life.money started out with 125K on the clock & was immaculate , never off roaded.it now has 204K & I've replaced all the suspension bushes shocks , UJs & CVs front wheel bearings & both anti roll bars.
 
Lc
I dont mind the lc5. The navigation system was easy enough to upgrade. The airbags havent been a problem and they have seen a bit of mud on and off.

Also, if the lc4 has the TENS shocks you may find they are about the same price as the air suspension bits.

The LC4 doesn't have TEMs Shocks.
 
Back
Top