Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them

LJ70 Build Thread!

This is the reason why I havnt been able to do any work on the truck this week.

Been fitting an oak staircase. :icon-cool:

After cutting and altering all the joist, I fitted the stairs.

P1010835_zps785cbac3.jpg


P1010834_zpsc92d7e59.jpg


Finished fitting all the newel posts, hand rail and spindles today.

P1010848_zps02bf7ef7.jpg


P1010849_zpsa8897383.jpg


P1010850_zps28b29dd3.jpg


P1010851_zpsdefe58d2.jpg


P1010852_zpsf6cab129.jpg


P1010853_zpsd99a6e6d.jpg


Been taking loads of pics of my work over the last few years and I'm now building up a portfolio which I can show to potential employers to show my skills. :icon-biggrin:

Anyway..........................Last working day for me today. Next week work can continue on the cruiser and getting everything packed up. :dance:

Only 2 weeks till my container arrives. :|
 
Nice job Ben! I fitted an almost identical staircase in my cottage in west wales many moons ago! I didn't make it though just fitted it. I cut and assembled all the bannister, Newell's and spindles. It was a long and tedious job, but very satisfying when fitted.
Your portfolio should be quite impressive, and I don't think you'll have problems getting work.
My experience is that people like quality, honesty and a good looking proper job. Once you've done a few, you'll be surprised how the word will spread. Make sure you have a professional set of business cards to hand for each job, then the satisfied customers will spread the word.
Never do a bad job, even if you lose money getting it right. News of one bad job will spread faster and with more vigor than 100 good jobs. You'll be just fine after a few commissions are under your belt.
The very best of luck and fortune from me!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Nice job Ben! I fitted an almost identical staircase in my cottage in west wales many moons ago! I didn't make it though just fitted it. I cut and assembled all the bannister, Newell's and spindles. It was a long and tedious job, but very satisfying when fitted.
Your portfolio should be quite impressive, and I don't think you'll have problems getting work.
My experience is that people like quality, honesty and a good looking proper job. Once you've done a few, you'll be surprised how the word will spread. Make sure you have a professional set of business cards to hand for each job, then the satisfied customers will spread the word.
Never do a bad job, even if you lose money getting it right. News of one bad job will spread faster and with more vigor than 100 good jobs. You'll be just fine after a few commissions are under your belt.
The very best of luck and fortune from me!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Thanks Clive. :thumbup:

Have saw, will travel.:dance:

Roger

:lol:
 
Well spotted Victor, I hadn't noticed that. :think:

I think I had that pic before Roger had his though. :whistle:
 
Last edited:
Don't like the adverts?  Click here to remove them
With my shipping container due 2 weeks tomorrow, I really need to get my truck finished.

Very chilly start today.

P1010873_zpsdf9e49f9.jpg


P1010874_zps1fdd1696.jpg


Needed to finish the rubber matting in the back.

P1010875_zpscf885777.jpg


Used a straight edge and new stanley knife blade to trim it to size. Then screwed the aluminium angle back in place to clamp the mat in place.

P1010876_zps0015a8f9.jpg


P1010877_zps4eb222c8.jpg


Needed to fix another piece of aluminium along the other edge.

P1010879_zps8f2948ff.jpg


Cut the aluminium to length and drilled the screw holes.

P1010881_zpsaf2df9f5.jpg


Countersunk the screw holes.

P1010882_zps29404ab7.jpg


Fixed it in place.

P1010883_zps5e69c199.jpg


P1010884_zps2fe3fba7.jpg


All the 70's I've seen have had sagging headlinings, apart from one which is Rogers.

So before the headlining goes back in I decided to fix the sagging material.

P1010886_zps7956594c.jpg


The plan was to stick it back in place using spray adhesive.

P1010887_zps4400d202.jpg


Only managed to get a little bit out of the old cans I'd found before they lost pressure. :doh:

So had to leave that for today, until I can buy some more.

Needed to get the indicators wired up in the bumper.

P1010888_zps78a316c7.jpg


Wired them up but then found the indicators wernt working at all. :doh:

Found a blown fuse and changed it. All the indicators now work but its flashing faster then normal, like it normally would if a bulb was blown. :?

Not sure what the fault could be? :think:

Not as bright as I'd hoped, so will change them when it lands in OZ.

P1010892_zps09e8626a.jpg


With snow, ice and rain forecast for the next few days I got the tarp set up.

P1010893_zps65bce3eb.jpg


Cleaned and re-fitted some more of the interior panels.

P1010898_zps3700c11f.jpg


P1010899_zps7a367766.jpg


Mixed and applied some body filler.

P1010900_zpsebf77bd8.jpg


This is the damaged pillar. The damage on the inside is covered by a panel, leaving just a small area in the door shut to fill and paint.

P1010901_zpsc3a1f085.jpg


Got the inside edge of the wheels and tyres jet washed.

P1010902_zps5f20c83b.jpg


Cleaned some of the 70 spares that I'm taking with me. These will all go in the back of the truck, inside the container.

P1010903_zps691d0fb7.jpg


Got the front wheels on.

P1010904_zps142b8639.jpg


P1010905_zps2c5a35a6.jpg


Still lots of bits to get done. Hoping to take the rear bumper off tomorrow to make a few alterations to it. Also need to take the rear drums off and see what state the shoes are in, and see if I can get the handbrake working any better. :think:

Once the truck is finished I can finally get everything else cleaned, packed, and stacked in the garage ready. :icon-cool:
 
Re the front bumper indicators flashing fast. If you've replaced the original filament bulbs with led light units, the cars indicator circuit doesn't see the correct loading in the circuit and therefore flashes fast, as it thinks that a bulb has blown. People get around the issue by adding a resistor into the circuit to mimick the load of the original bulbs.

You say that your led units aren't as bright as you'd like, is this because they are marker lights and not indicators? Could you reintroduce the indicator you had in the side lights, as well as the new led units in the bumper, so that you end up with both working? It should solve your fast flashing and make sure that your front indicators are bright enough for the time being.

Good luck with the cleaning, from some of the Internet reading I've done they like it immaculately clean even down to there being no debris in the fins of the radiator! Nice weather to be washing the truck!! Enjoy!!!
 
Thanks Scott. Never for a minute thought the problem would be because their LED's and not normal bulbs. :icon-biggrin:

Yes they are marker lights, not indicators. :oops:

These are the ones I'm thinking of fitting:-

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LED-Bull...ries&hash=item231ee46cdf&_uhb=1#ht_3387wt_852

Fitting indicator bulbs into the side light, and retaining the sidelights aswell might be an option, just need to find a suitable bulb holder that I can fit into the light. :think:

I'm going to get it as clean as I possibly can. :thumbup:

Everytime I think I've finally got it clean I find more Lincomb sand. :lol:
 
Is that a legal requirement Roger? all my lights internal and external have been changed to LED's and like Bens the indicators flash faster but strangely on my other 80 they don't. :confusion-confused:
 
In the UK, LED bulbs can only be fitted inside the vehicle for map lights and interior lighting.

Really?! How does that explain all the new cars with LED lights fitted as standard?

Ive used LED sidelight and numberplate bulbs for years and had no problems with the MOT as long as they are the correct colour (for white its colour temp that matters 4600-500k ie. not too blue) and Ive never been pulled by the police for them. I fact I had a police officer ask where I got some of them from as he wanted some for his car!?
 
Is that a legal requirement Roger? all my lights internal and external have been changed to LED's and like Bens the indicators flash faster but strangely on my other 80 they don't. :confusion-confused:

"Mainbeam News", issue 14 (an Osram publication), in answer to a question "are retrofit LED bulbs road legal" replied "no".

Note the use of the word "bulb". It may be that a self contained unit with a built in bulb may be legal.

Maybe!

Roger
 
Woke up to a cold winters day yesterday, but not as much snow as was forecast.

P1010916_zps78d62ebe.jpg


First job was to get the drums off and investigate why the hanbrake wasnt working.

Drums wouldnt just pull off, so wound some bolts into the threaded holes in the drums to push the drums off.

P1010917_zps1c6f0ce1.jpg


Very dirty inside.

P1010918_zps43cdb241.jpg


P1010919_zps5f525766.jpg


More Lincomb sand.

P1010920_zpsde4249de.jpg


More filling and sanding on the B pillar.

P1010921_zps4b7fc6d5.jpg


P1010922_zps12c7ee81.jpg


P1010923_zps43b269ea.jpg


Had to set a smaller tarp up on the back to keep me out of the freezing cold rain and hail.

P1010924_zpscae5df3f.jpg


Due to the fact I never finished the wheel carrier, by adding a stop to prevent it from opening too far. The gas strut decided it had had enough and snapped. :doh:

P1010925_zpsb1f5f749.jpg


Fitted a new one.

P1010927_zpsdcfdfb26.jpg


Cut a piece of 10mm plate.

P1010928_zpsce3990fb.jpg


The idea was to weld it on and then stick a piece of rubber to the carrier to dampen the shock of it swinging into the metal.

P1010929_zps43f3bd2d.jpg


P1010930_zpsadc93552.jpg


I welded it on like that but decided I wasnt happy with it.

P1010931_zpscd1d27bf.jpg


So I cut the steel down a bit and welded it on.

P1010932_zpse3fea86b.jpg


With the rubber strip in place the carrier opens to the correct position, and the gas strut isnt at its maximum so hopefully should last a bit longer.

P1010934_zps57beee2d.jpg


P1010935_zps7efecbe5.jpg


Id noticed small cracks appearing at the bottom of both B pillars.

P1010937_zps5d1e91de.jpg


P1010938_zpsde742ae6.jpg


Cleaned the rust and paint off.

P1010939_zps9cf36f87.jpg


And welded it up.

P1010942_zpsd2666d7b.jpg


Other side.

P1010940_zps6fce35a0.jpg


P1010941_zps0e96ba0e.jpg


Ground the welds down.

P1010943_zpscba6ffc3.jpg


Gave it a wipe of filler.

P1010944_zps560b7a1d.jpg


Cleaned the drum brakes out.

P1010945_zps6c4ac288.jpg


Managed to adjust them and get the handbrake working well.

P1010946_zps385c5882.jpg


Removed the heat shield that had been acting as a mud trap.

P1010947_zpscd25285b.jpg


More pressure washing underneath.

P1010949_zpsb1e454cb.jpg


The passenger door handle on the replacement door was very stiff and wouldnt spring back.

P1010950_zpsa5d70db6.jpg


Needed to change the door card anyway as it didnt match any of my others.

P1010951_zpsfc4aa997.jpg


Cleaned loads of mud out of the indie of the door.

P1010953_zps8f1b44b4.jpg


The handle didnt appear to be broken so I drowned it in WD40 and kept working it in.

P1010954_zps7632597f.jpg


Soon had it working perfectly.

P1010955_zps0fe2c825.jpg


Quite a lot of rust on this replacement door. :thumbdown:

P1010956_zps138d7ca4.jpg


More filling and sanding.

P1010957_zps089dbe5f.jpg


P1010958_zps3bd3d606.jpg


While scraping all the loose flaking paint off so that I could treat the rust. I found that the decals/graphics on the door wernt applied on top of blue paint as I'd suspected. But on top of the white primer, and then blue paint applied around them. :icon-confused:

Good job I'm going to re-spray the whole truck soon.

P1010959_zpsd62deae5.jpg


P1010960_zps60edf3e4.jpg


Got the wheel carrier stop painted in grey primer.

P1010961_zpsc5f219f8.jpg


Today I had some deliveries. Jays fluid to hopefully keep customs happy when all my stuff arrives and spray adhesive for the head lining.

P1010964_zps1d310e22.jpg


Managed to stick the sagging material back on to the headlining. Better but not perfect, almost seems like the material has stretched. So was not possible to stick it all down without any creases. :doh:

P1010965_zpsb783b9f8.jpg


Used some brush on blue hammerite over the areas I'd rust killed and filled. Just to make it look a bit tidier until I re-spray the whole truck.

P1010966_zps8793b632.jpg


P1010967_zpsd17a9df1.jpg


P1010970_zps821b417f.jpg


P1010971_zps424ea241.jpg


Also gave the bumpers and sliders a fresh coat of black paint.

P1010968_zps764f28f7.jpg


P1010969_zps76113431.jpg


Did some more dinitroling underneath.

P1010972_zps46d9424b.jpg


Decided to hang up and also spray the spare radius arms, trailing arms, pan hard rod and steering bar. Note the old headlining in the back ground, badly oil stained from all the oil running out of the sills when she was upside down.

P1010973_zps0a55a97c.jpg


P1010974_zpsb61f406e.jpg


Changed to a can of cavity wax to do inside the new door.

P1010975_zps2764d4c2.jpg


Bloody stuff ran out of the holes in the bottom of the door all over the drive. :doh:

P1010976_zps229f7148.jpg


With the door done I change the nozzle for the one with the extension tube.

P1010977_zps35096df9.jpg


P1010978_zps44a19d19.jpg


Sprayed all inside the roof and pillars, making sure all the new welds got a good coat.

P1010979_zps790e5f9c.jpg


P1010982_zpsc07e12be.jpg


Managed to get some wood jammed between the rim and tyre bead last time I was out laning.

P1010984_zps82b18ed1.jpg


P1010983_zps1cd8ccd9.jpg


Let some air out with my eazi deflater.

P1010985_zps0493c1d9.jpg


Then used the high lift to push the tyre from the rim where the wood was.

P1010986_zpsf78f4e9f.jpg


P1010987_zps3388fb70.jpg


Got the wheels back on.

P1010988_zpsf4eec008.jpg


P1010990_zps142d4684.jpg


Door card next.

P1010991_zpsea7c1e3f.jpg



P1010992_zps674014bf.jpg


Need to get the headlining and interior bits fitted next, then I can clean the interior. :icon-cool:
 
Try washing your hands with cold water first, and an exfoliating wash (the orange degreaser wash, face wash or similar... whatever can be stolen from a female resident in the household...), then wash it with soap in hot water.

Washing in Hot water opens the pores up and allows the smell to be trapped as such, whereas cold closes them up. Trick learnt from a farmer...
 
Ed, for most people reading this thread who havnt been reading this other thread, your comment wont make any sense. :lol:

But thanks for the advice. :thumbup:

Bloody stuff smells horrible. :puke-front:

I've filled a garden spray bottle with jeys fluid and water and I'm spraying inside all my boxes. I'm hoping customs will smell the disinfectant as soon as they open a box, and then not look too closely. :pray:
 
This is the reason why I havnt been able to do any work on the truck this week.

Been fitting an oak staircase. :icon-cool: After cutting and altering all the joist, I fitted the stairs. Finished fitting all the newel posts, hand rail and spindles today.

P1010850_zps28b29dd3.jpg



Been taking loads of pics of my work over the last few years and I'm now building up a portfolio which I can show to potential employers to show my skills. :icon-biggrin:

Anyway..........................Last working day for me today. Next week work can continue on the cruiser and getting everything packed up. :dance:

Only 2 weeks till my container arrives. :|

It's a shame your're going to Oz, I've got a staircase into my loft that needs building. :cry:
 
Ed, for most people reading this thread who havnt been reading this other thread, your comment wont make any sense. :lol:

But thanks for the advice. :thumbup:

Bloody stuff smells horrible. :puke-front:

I've filled a garden spray bottle with jeys fluid and water and I'm spraying inside all my boxes. I'm hoping customs will smell the disinfectant as soon as they open a box, and then not look too closely. :pray:

Oooops.... I thought I'd written that answer in the right thread!

Still, works for most smelly siht, not just Jeyes fluid!

I'm never sure with that one if I'm telling people something new or not; some people know it already, some don't!
 
Sorry Chas, wont have time to do your stairs before I go. :|


Oooops.... I thought I'd written that answer in the right thread!

Still, works for most smelly siht, not just Jeyes fluid!

I'm never sure with that one if I'm telling people something new or not; some people know it already, some don't!

:lol:
 
Another cold start yesterday morning.

P1010995_zps6ce350f7.jpg


First job was to get the front sunroof drain hoses fitted correctly, so that the headlining could go back in.

P1010996_zpsc5f5a81c.jpg


After trying and failing with various methods I used a thin fibreglass rod.

P1010997_zps0259751b.jpg


Duck taped the hose on.

P1010998_zps59195677.jpg


Managed to get the rod through the hole in the top of the A pillar.

P1010999_zpsb086bf1b.jpg


P1020003_zps6351d9d9.jpg


Got the top connected. The bottom of the hose has to go through a hole into the sill, which was a bit fiddly to get the hose into.

P1020004_zps30a903f6.jpg


I'd managed to get the other hose in place last time, but it wasnt through the correct hole in the roof.

P1020005_zpscebedbd5.jpg


So I wanted it routed properly.

Used the hose to help pull the rod through.

P1020006_zps387a50b0.jpg


It was very fiddly and difficult to get the rod through the hole. Could have done with 3 hands.

P1020008_zps6f669b43.jpg


P1020009_zpsfd3d0038.jpg


P1020010_zpsca848981.jpg


P1020011_zps10bc1036.jpg


P1020012_zps55f89c7a.jpg


All done. Took a few hours and resulted in a few cuts an loads of horrible fibreglass splinters off the rod.

P1020013_zpse681f632.jpg


I'm keen to fit a grab handle on the passenger side to help with getting in. The 4" lift and 37"s have made it a little higher than standard. :lol:

So I was keen to see if there is any threaded holes in the passenger A pillar.

P1020015_zpsfdfdbe24.jpg


Non. :thumbdown:

So will have to drill some holes and rivnut it.

P1020014_zps9b86e1ea.jpg


About this time, as I'd had the engine running for an hour I noticed coolant dripping off the front axle. Closer inspection revealed the water pump was leaking.:icon-cry:

P1020021_zpsbe6fe29a.jpg


Re-fitted the headlining.

P1020026_zps173bfb63.jpg


Not perfect and needs a clean, but this is a toy and not a show truck. :lol:

P1020027_zpsfdf7d318.jpg


Took the front seats out and gave the whole inside a good clean with first soapy water and then jays fluid.

P1020028_zps4b337b19.jpg


P1020029_zpsadbdc0ec.jpg


P1020030_zps53347a99.jpg


P1020031_zps8c300332.jpg


Got the other side of the radius and trailing arms and steering bar dinitroled.

P1020032_zpsee945b9f.jpg


Rust killed the floor pan.

P1020034_zps6d4b12dc.jpg


Cleaned and re-fitted the seats.

P1020036_zps2d6aa7d8.jpg


P1020037_zpsb7b68aa5.jpg


Got up this morning and it started snowing.

P1020039_zpsbd0d7815.jpg


I took the tarp down the other day as I was intending to pressure wash and disinfect it ready for export.

Not willing to let the weather dictate what I do with the day I set it back up.

P1020041_zps986b4fc9.jpg


Consulted the engine FSM.

P1020061_zps9d573a9b.jpg


It said to change the water pump the cambelt has to come off. I wasnt so sure......................

P1020043_zpsadd8e0d2.jpg


First I removed the power steering belts.

P1020044_zps58804365.jpg


After removing them I realised I should have un-done the bolts holding the pulley on, first. :doh:

I put the belts back on and found by pushing them taught their was enough friction on the pulley to hold it still while I undid the bolts.

P1020045_zpsc99c8d9a.jpg


Pulley and belts off.

P1020046_zpsb0ec35cf.jpg


I could then get to the water pump.

P1020047_zps69e78f2f.jpg


P1020048_zpsc3fdbf64.jpg


I bought a new water pump last year and wrongly thought it was the wrong one. :oops:

After many emails back and forth to Milner's, they confirmed it was the right one, but that I needed to unbolt it from the housing to bolt it onto the engine.

P1020051_zps92ba8dfa.jpg



P1020053_zps065304c4.jpg


Un-bolted it.

P1020055_zps026e145d.jpg


P1020056_zpsaae1d233.jpg


Old pump off.

P1020057_zps6d0c3dcf.jpg


P1020058_zpsc3e769ea.jpg


P1020059_zpsd26924e4.jpg


P1020060_zps226c4186.jpg


The old pump did have some silicon type sealant on the back. I couldnt decided whether to put any on the new pump or not. There was no mention of using sealant in the FSM. In the end I decided to use a little bit.

P1020065_zpsd11ed753.jpg


P1020067_zpsbd20d934.jpg


New pump on.

P1020068_zpsd4f8fe8e.jpg


Pulley back on.

P1020071_zps114f69a0.jpg


Belts back on.

P1020072_zpsfd5609c6.jpg


Very pleased with how it went. :clap:

I'm happy that the water pump on the 1KZ-T/1KZ-TE can be changed in the bush in a couple of hours with nothing more than a 10, 12, and 14mm socket, ratchet and a flat bladed screw driver. :dance:

P1020073_zps103665ba.jpg


Re-filled the rad with coolant.

P1020074_zpsdb3fad97.jpg


Put some clean cardboard under the truck (so any dripping coolant would be visible). Then ran the truck for an hour.

The temp got up to 76.9 degrees, so about normal temp. That was with the heater set to cold, and with the electric radiator fan switched off.

P1020081_zpsd49de04c.jpg


I then turned the electric fan on for 5 mins. This seemed to work well at cooling the engine. In just 5 mins it dropped 10 degrees.

P1020082_zpsa6f05131.jpg


Happy to report no leaks. :dance:

Real test for the cooling system will be a sunny 40 degree Melbourne summers day. :icon-cool:
 
YYY
Back
Top