Who is doing what maintenance today?

[Raj]

I am guessing yours is petrol Raj? My diesel turns the oil murky in a few km.

Mine is diesel too. It usually changes little dark after short drive but this oil change was only after 200 miles and I also left it few hours to drain so it’s that clean.
In last 38000 miles I did around 11 oil changes. I am overdoing this and AHC bleeding as these both are the easiest and cheapest ones I can do without help.

 

[Raj]

Our engines drain really well hence not easy to see the level and the oil stays clean for a long time, family BMW compact Diesel was the worse for draining, within seconds the dipstick looked like the oil had never been changed.
My 20 year old 120 goes nearly 100 miles before the oil turns black, i leave it to drain for hours and sometimes overnight in order to inspect the oil pick, that helps.

My next oil change is in September. I ll try this overnight process.

 

[Grimbo]

Looking and playing with rear spring rates..... initial investigation at the moment .
My OME +2 springs had sagged a bit and just gave a harsh ride on the rear .... I swapped in a set of Roughtrax ( I think....they are painted red ? ) HD +2 ones that when towing work perfectly but are a bit harsh in normal use and do give a tail up attitude but only by the same amount as if you look at press pictures of new 80's ....
Wondering if a softer spring with airbags would allow fine tuning of rear ride hight and compliance ....

 

[Juddian]

Mine is diesel too. It usually changes little dark after short drive but this oil change was only after 200 miles and I also left it few hours to drain so it’s that clean.
In last 38000 miles I did around 11 oil changes. I am overdoing this and AHC bleeding as these both are the easiest and cheapest ones I can do without help.

I don't think you're overdoing oil changes at all Raj, indeed is it even possible to do so.
Looking at my own self service history can't find the last time any of our cars went over 3000 miles between oil changes, oil bought in bulk same with filters an oil change is £30/35 at most, pocket change compared to wear and ultimate failure.

At the other extreme trucks are now at 100k kms oil change intervals, our tanker trucks work seriously hard at max weight 24/7 the engines running at fast idle blowing the loads off at customer premises., several vehicles have required engine rebuilds at around 600k kms, turbo failures rearing their ugly heads too.
Compare with typical 80's/90's truck servicing with 15k mile oil changes our equally hard working Cummins and Rolls engines typically needed nothing other than routine maintenance for well over 1 million miles, turbo failure unheard of.
To be fair most old school lorry drivers allowed engines to warm up a cool down, and still do despite the advice we keep being told no longer necessary.
Old school truck mechanics i speak to don't agree with these long service intervals, but the trucks are on full 'repair and maintenance' lease so down to the dealer at what mileages oil changes happen.

There's a pattern emerging here, good servicing helps vehicles last.

 

[Grimbo]

@Juddian .... you're spot on with what you say.... the cheapest part you will ever fit to any machine is oil.... even if it is JCB EP90 LSD oil at nearly £200 for 20 litres !

Many older designed vehicles using legacy parts have seen service intervals go up despite the engine being unchanged .... service costs per hour or mile are the driver for most fleet buyers now so the manufacturers have taken a simple mathematical gamble .... if they up the service interval X amount of failures will occur in warranty .... but this is less than the increase in sales... so all is good .

Bet your trucks are now running VVT Turbos ..... they hate contaminated oil and long changes.... common failures now are not the turbo but the VVT actuator .... but integral with the turbo so it's new turbo time.... at way more than an oil school turbo .

All the dreaded "wet belt" engine issues mostly go away if the engine is serviced at 50% of recommended interval .... same to a degree with the JLR V6 engine now also in the Ford Ranger .... it will still occasionally self destruct but much less often if you halve the service interval .

 

[Juddian]

Looking and playing with rear spring rates..... initial investigation at the moment .
My OME +2 springs had sagged a bit and just gave a harsh ride on the rear .... I swapped in a set of Roughtrax ( I think....they are painted red ? ) HD +2 ones that when towing work perfectly but are a bit harsh in normal use and do give a tail up attitude but only by the same amount as if you look at press pictures of new 80's ....
Wondering if a softer spring with airbags would allow fine tuning of rear ride hight and compliance ....

Yes a softer spring, presumably with adjustable air assistance, could make for a better lightly laden ride.

But before you go down that road are the shocks as good as they once were and/or have the tyres gone a bit harder over time or as they've worn down has the shock absorbing effect of deep tread lessened.
I ask because the ride on the 120 isn't as good as it was but i can't detect any real lessening of shock absorber efficiency and its on air at the back so spring rates don't apply, the Yoko GO15s still have 5mm tread but must be 7 years old now so am toying with replacing with another set of the same before much longer.
When those Yokos were fitted new the refined and quiet ride over our third world pot holed roads was a revelation.

edit...just had a butchers on Camskill, Yoko now have the GO18 AT4 tyre listed, which appears to be an upgrade to the GO15 in that it scores B instead of C for wet grip but at 75dB instead of 72. If they're still on offer after this year's MOT in May might invest in a set of those.

 

[Raj]

Yes a softer spring, presumably with adjustable air assistance, could make for a better lightly laden ride.

But before you go down that road are the shocks as good as they once were and/or have the tyres gone a bit harder over time or as they've worn down has the shock absorbing effect of deep tread lessened.
I ask because the ride on the 120 isn't as good as it was but i can't detect any real lessening of shock absorber efficiency and its on air at the back so spring rates don't apply, the Yoko GO15s still have 5mm tread but must be 7 years old now so am toying with replacing with another set of the same before much longer.
When those Yokos were fitted new the refined and quiet ride over our third world pot holed roads was a revelation.

edit...just had a butchers on Camskill, Yoko now have the GO18 AT4 tyre listed, which appears to be an upgrade to the GO15 in that it scores B instead of C for wet grip but at 75dB instead of 72. If they're still on offer after this year's MOT in May might invest in a set of those.

I think it’s not tyres, suspension or the car. It’s the roads that got worse

 

[Grimbo]

Our roads around here are worse than many farm tracks.....
I've played with tyre pressures so I don't think tyres ....it's not the big potholes that are the worry it's the small ripples and the painted on rumble strips etc .... just a harsh jiggly ride issue .

Could be shocks where the initial short travel damping is lacking I suppose....

Because we are so limited to what we can get here it's always a compromise .....

OME offer the 860 at 300kg and full passenger load ( I reckon they would be too hard as I'm normally 2 up ) and they all quote a load over "stock" but what is stock ? A UK spec VX has the 3rd row seats that weigh 20kg ? each so a UK spec VX may already be 40kg heavier and have 2 extra passengers if they are using an Aussie spec one as stock . If I take everything out and weigh it then that gives me an idea and the 3rd row seats are in the loft anyway ....

What I'm after is a soft compliant initial travel and damping but still with a 2 inch lift with whatever weight it turns out I carry all the time.... I think then I'll run airbags at minimal pressure until I need to tow...

What I think it needs is progressive springs.... had them on the front of my Manta 400 rally car back in the day.... even Gp B tarmac springs still gave a compliant initial ride .

 

[LandcruisingFarmer]

I’ve been through a few different brands over the years. OME, TJM, Terrafirma (truly crap), terrain tamer (on my 120). But the best so far is what have had for just over 10 years which is the stage 1 Icon lift. It was expensive and still is and I would have preferred 2” but they start at 3” or at least mine did. So comfy, yes it rolls a bit but it’s controlled and really compliant, I think the springs are progressive. Just have to remember it’s a 2.5/3t car so physics does come into play. Next up possibly better anti roll bars.

 

[Grimbo]

I’ve been through a few different brands over the years. OME, TJM, Terrafirma (truly crap), terrain tamer (on my 120). But the best so far is what have had for just over 10 years which is the stage 1 Icon lift. It was expensive and still is and I would have preferred 2” but they start at 3” or at least mine did. So comfy, yes it rolls a bit but it’s controlled and really compliant, I think the springs are progressive. Just have to remember it’s a 2.5/3t car so physics does come into play. Next up possibly better anti roll bars.

I like the look of that Icon kit ....just need to work out how to get it here and cost ;-)

 

[LandcruisingFarmer]

I think 4x4 works seem to bring it in and it’s more expensive than when I got it, there’s a surprise. I got mine through Julian at overland cruisers. Next stage I reckon is superior engineering but then we’re talking serious expense. I’m not sure I can be faffed with adjustable dampers, but I quite like those electronic ones that Superior and I think JMaxx make. Not for the 80 sadly yet though, but at least that saves listing after them.

 

[Shayne]

Toyota's own springs and a spacer might work

 

[LandcruisingFarmer]

Toyota's own springs and a spacer might work

View attachment 341254

And it’s comfy from factory! I’ve wasted quite a bit of cash these past 20 year ruining the ride comfort

 

[Shayne]

I've no idea how good factory springs are but I fitted a coil spacer lift on all 4 corners once and wasted a good few hours trying and failing to work out why the ride felt so much better .

SWB 90 with old knackered and maybe original springs .

 

[chapel gate]

A UK spec VX has the 3rd row seats that weigh 20kg ? each so a UK spec VX may already be 40kg heavier and have 2 extra passengers if they are using an Aussie spec one as stock

genuine toyota rear springs are different part numbers with the 3rd row to account for the extra weight.

 

[chapel gate]

And it’s comfy from factory! I’ve wasted quite a bit of cash these past 20 year ruining the ride comfort

this is correct. if you dont want a lift, toyota are probable the best ride quality option.

 

[felix2566]

I have the icon dampers fitted to mine, the ride is good with a few inches of lift, but, I'm not impressed with the build quality. The coating on the damper rods is starting to corrode in some areas, I'm getting concerned that the seals will get damaged by it. I always thought the damper rods were made out of some kind of stainless, these look like they are chrome plated.

The springs that came with them (not sure who they are made by) are about 3 years old with one winters use, the powder coat/paint is flaking off already.

The ride is good on and off road, just a shame about the build quality, I expected more for the price and the reputation of the brand.

 

[LandcruisingFarmer]

I have the icon dampers fitted to mine, the ride is good with a few inches of lift, but, I'm not impressed with the build quality. The coating on the damper rods is starting to corrode in some areas, I'm getting concerned that the seals will get damaged by it. I always thought the damper rods were made out of some kind of stainless, these look like they are chrome plated.

The springs that came with them (not sure who they are made by) are about 3 years old with one winters use, the powder coat/paint is flaking off already.

The ride is good on and off road, just a shame about the build quality, I expected more for the price and the reputation of the brand.

Those are some interesting points. I haven’t had my 80 for a couple of years but finally collecting it this week I hope, I’m going to have a very close inspection.

 

[Juddian]

I have the icon dampers fitted to mine, the ride is good with a few inches of lift, but, I'm not impressed with the build quality. The coating on the damper rods is starting to corrode in some areas, I'm getting concerned that the seals will get damaged by it. I always thought the damper rods were made out of some kind of stainless, these look like they are chrome plated.

The springs that came with them (not sure who they are made by) are about 3 years old with one winters use, the powder coat/paint is flaking off already.

The ride is good on and off road, just a shame about the build quality, I expected more for the price and the reputation of the brand.

I know nothing about the parts you speak of, but presume they are made elsewhere.
I'm convinced makers in other, warmer, climes have little idea how damaging to vehicles damp climates such as ours and the excess salt used on our roads.

 

[felix2566]

Yes, totally agree. They came from Oz, so quite likely they are not designed for the wet and salt that we have in the UK. Still find it disappointing though for allegedly quality products.