I have the lovely task of drivers side wheel bearing to do for the first time and a brake fluid flush...yay I cant wait to go out in this weather...I wish I had a garage to work in sometimes.
Front brake pads.......maybe or maybe just wait for the rear brake shoes and do it all at the same time
After taking 5 min to get the front wheel off and cap and c clip its taken me the best part of an hour to get one of those bastard cone washers out. I don’t have a copper mallet and have decided that one is needed. Can anyone recommend a good all-round hammer for the job.
Bit of scrap hardwood and a normal hammer, or a bit of aluminium to use as a drift. Anything sacrificial that is softer than what you are hitting really, even a bit of old leather to soften the blow of the hammer.
Been pumping tyres up and topping up brake fluid. I really need to change mine as it's seriously nasty... but so is the weather and the fire going in my living room has infinitely more appeal I should really be doing my front & rear pads too - just saw them sitting on the shelf in my shed waiting to go in... Something like this should do the job. Dig around on eBay as there are plenty of options - some with one end nylon and the other copper or brass. I don't think there is anything too subtle about picking one over another - just get one of roughly the size you want. It's a hammer after all! They're quite useful items when tapping stubborn bits of metal stuck together that you don't want to damage, so definitely worth getting one rather than faffing with blocks of wood or drifts. Also nipped out to get some Toyota red anti-freeze - £38 for 10l of pre-mixed... for water mixed with a bit of ethylene glycol and some other chemicals... Just a fresh reminder why I visit my surly Toyo dealer so seldom Everyone ready for a bit of rugger this afternoon?
Not actually doing anything today, but yesterday I went down to Greg @ Land Cruisers Overland (top man) to get two sheared wheel nut studs replaced, and when he removed the brake caliper we noticed the pads needed replacing they were about as thick as a fag paper there might have been just enough meat left to get me back home Greg fitted new pads for me, luckily he had a set destined for another customers truck, then ordered replacements, the wear indicators hadn't given me any warning even though you could see they had been in contact with the disk. The studs had sheared the day before when I had two new tyres fitted on the front, it was just the front off-side nuts that had seized the near-side ones came off very easily. So having new tyres might have saved me getting new disks at a later date. Another thing, when the tyres were fitted I couldn't find the socket for the locking nuts and had to get them removed at a local garage (£20 squids to remove four nuts ) so not wanting to use them again I am now in need of six wheel nuts for steel rims, four to replace the locks and two to replace the couple that seized, any kind person got any spare I still have a few beer tokens left over from last months pension
Just finished the work and off to the local tyre dealer to pick up the old tyres that I have sold and maybe if he was able to also pick up the new BFG AT's if they have been fitted onto the alloys. Back in an hour
I've been seam welding my new winch bumper getting it ready for adding air points and hi lift tubes etc before blasting and powder coating. Quite a nice day really. Not that cold. Not much else I can do really. Chris
Chas I have just replaced all of mine with new ones from milners, so kindly pointed out to me by Mr Rubie http://www.milneroffroad.com/categories ... D=9096&p=5 If they are too rich for you I have a load of spares of both types, either bevelled or washer type.
Little question for the days maintenance crew. Whilst i had the jack out i thought i would jack up one side of the rear, turn the car on put her in neutral and low range and the engage the rear diff. Before doing this I could spin the wheel but once I had turned the rear diff switch I could not BUT the rear diff light kept flashing on the dash and never went solid. This is not right from what I have read and does this mean a faulty switch or is it the centre diff engaging the reason for me not being able to turn the rear wheel as only one was off the ground or is it the rear diff engaging and the switch dodgy?
replaced a leaking oil seal on the transfer box - front prop one. took 2 hours, no problems along they way - my impact wrench made easy work of removing the bit flange nut. biggest hassle was removing the underbody protection plate and front prop. put in new seal and new gear oil.
F*%king rugby - full marks to Scotland! I actually wish I'd been lying in the rain next to my LC rather than watching that pitiful performance.... Warren, to answer your question (I think), you need the centre diff locked before any OEM axle lockers will engage. Sounds like you had that done. Once the CD is locked, the truck MUST drive at least one front and one rear wheel. So what you were doing was asking for the truck to drive off the jack because both front tyres were on the ground The rear locker will/should engage when the splines line up, assuming the actuator is fine. It probably would be simpler to drive slowly in low range and get everything to lock up. Slow speeds for a short distance on tar isn't going to break anything. Much simpler and much safer this way
Yep - glad I didn't watch that. Will get it at work on Monday though - the SMS' have already started ...
I've just got in from fitting my Ironman suspension lift to Fiery & replacing her two front flexi brake hoses Time for a shower & a beer
I realised that, Warren Just pointing out that that's what you'd set yourself up to do! You need to jack up one front wheel too to try that.
Did a overhaul of the power steering pump, lapped the valves in on the head, fitted new water hoses to the fuel pump and turbo water feed & return hoses. Tomorrow, fit new valve guide oil seals, install the valves and then check the valve clearances. Monday..... the motors is finally going back in