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Ah, yes, I’d forgotten about the Bluetooth temperature and voltage sensor. That should work to keep the charging at the correct voltage. Can’t see why if cables are sized correctly that your bus system shouldn’t work just fine. I have found with a system in my camper that turning off the battery...

They’re neat pieces of kit, super well made in Aus for under bonnet use in Australian heat to deliver 25A all day long. Here’s my original thread on them. https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/threads/intervolt-dcc-pro-dc-dc-split-charge-system.148666/

As a general rule, unless the battery will deplete before the cable catches fire if short circuited then all smaller cables need appropriate size fuses at the point the size drops to the smaller cable. Seems like that’s what you’re doing. What you’ve suggested in your initial post looks like a...

Can you plug your solar in once you get home? Or even have some permanent panels that you plug in while the cruiser is parked up to keep everything topped up? That would save on the DCDC and give free maintenance charging.

Sounds like you’ve got things sorted for your MPPT etc but if you are in the market for a battery to battery charger that takes solar and can charge a LiFePo4 battery if it has its own BMS then take a look at the Intervolt DCC Pro R2. I have stock of these. There’s a thread on here somewhere...

A disconnect can be a switch, removable fuse, circuit breaker or a relay and you can use as many or as few as you like as long as the cable has protection for its size. A circuit breaker is going to be suitable as long as it is a DC breaker that is thermal and magnetic suitable to break high...

Best to take the solar to your charge controller MPPT and then to the battery directly via a suitable fuse and ideally a disconnect. Take the outputs via a suitably heavy fuse and disconnect to your inverter. Then another disconnect and fuse for your loads to a fuse panel where each load is...

Most interesting info here. Well done finding the TEV as the problem and clearly a thorough check of the replaced part aside from it curing the problem showed it to be faulty. Interesting on the fan hp draw.

Are you sure the TEV was stuck open? Usually with pressure issues it is plugged shut. This can happen if moisture is allowed to enter the AC system and not removed after a careless recharge or a leak. The moisture instantly freezes at the TEV (thermostatic expansion valve) and plugs it solid...

Shayne makes a good point here. Has this fault just appeared or has it appeared at the time of an addition, service, any work on the vehicle? Does if have a tow bar or anything additional that could affect the electronic systems. Also check system voltage and charge voltage. Check for corrosion...

Or is it simply that there’s a bit of water in the fuel and it needs draining out of the fuel filter? I don’t have a 200 so no idea if the fuel filter is the same as my 80 but if it has a screw in base with some wires coming from it then it’ll have a drain that can be unscrewed.

There’s a thread on here (if not more than one) with details about rebuild. There’s a tiny tea strainer type filter on one of the parts that controls the pressure. If this unloader is letting by, it overheats the fluid (did it smell burnt when you changed it?) and makes steering less smooth...

I saw this the other day and reading the comments I’m not sure what effect if any this will have on classic vehicles. Suffice to say, generally, if something is done by a government department ‘for your benefit’ it often turns out differently to advertised. Anyway, thought this may well impact...

I popped some of the little fuel filters on mine to stop anything solid/living getting in.

Can't see why your one-way system wouldn't work perfectly well. It depends on what level of vacuum is needed to open the non-return valve. The gearbox and axle casings suck in when dipped in water after being hot while driving. You might get some farting noises in the cabin as the axles get wet...

We’re here! First in for the first time ever!!

I agree. That's well thought out, beautifully constructed and finished. I like that you can get to everything. There's a few compromises its true but for a young guy on his own it clearly works and looks mint even after a year of full time living in. Good find Shayne. Ill have to post up the...

Easiest way is to put a piece of tube slightly larger and longer than the half shaft upright with the end on a wooden block, then put the end of the half shaft just in the open end of the tube (both tube and shaft in line vertically) and drop it. Be ready to catch the burfield as the half shaft...

Hope the weather sorts itself out and keeps dry!! :pray:

1) Trev (work permitting) Sat Full English x 1, Sun Bacon Egg Roll x1 2) Andy Maria and Pip 3) Nick, 2 x bacon egg, sausage roll for sunday 4) Reinhard 5) Gav etc... 6) Rich and Lynn. 2x bacon+egg roll, 2x full English.

I was so looking forward to your post Shayne. It didn’t disappoint. :lol:

Don’t start me on those I’ve never met that call me ‘Mate’. Worse still ‘Pal’. :angry-screaming:

Heard this the other day. What a character and truly one of the good guys. I don’t think he was ever really well since I met him but that never stopped him. I thought we’d lost him on the way to Clive’s in 2017 as he was behind me and wandering onto the hard shoulder. I got on the radio to see...

I am still stocking these units which are now LiFePo4 lithium battery ready. If you’re looking for a small footprint superbly made charger for a leisure battery then take a look at these as they are designed to survive working all day long under the bonnet in Australian heat. Mine is still...

Only 2 years late replying to this Lorin :doh::eusa-whistle: Is yours set to voltage sensing or ignition sensing?

I feel your pain Frank. Sadly this is the tip of a rather large iceberg. :angry-screaming:

One option would be to remove the pipes and cut off the fittings each end then braze in standard flare fittings and use standard fridge hoses between. Just de-gas first and seal the ends of the pipes left on the truck with cling film or similar while the pipes are being made up.

I think the significant phrase there is “popular in the LR community”. Need I say more…:oops:

I’ve owned my 1994 HDJ80 for 20 years. Purchase was forced by my beloved Mk1 Shogun being stolen by those types that favour them. Loved the cruiser just as much as the Shogun and it was like new being a JDM import. Been my daily driver since and still puts the ‘Cruiser Grin’ on my face every time.

Properly made refrigeration flexi hoses should last a very long time. They are high pressure like hydraulic hoses and are made for refrigerant. I’ve not done this myself but have worked round a lot of refrigeration equipment both static and mobile. There’s going to be a way to make them up and a...

:cry::cry: Why do these things come along like busses! You go for ages with nothing on the calendar and then everything decends on one weekend!! Can’t make it, sadly I’m already booked for that weekend. Oh well, at least the notification worked. Have a good one everyone.

Which of course leads straight to Land Rovers! Thing is, this isn’t the first Land Rober engine series I’ve heard of to suffer from broken crankshafts. If people didn’t buy them, maybe they might at least try and sort the issues. :think:

Do you mean this guy Frank? I found him the other day after seeing a mechanic rebuild his friends TDV6 LR engine (best use of which is a boat anchor by the looks of it).

Sad news indeed Andy. Guess his job on this earth is done. RIP Merlin. Above everything ‘dog’, you had presence.

I’ve now set an alert if anything is posted on the ‘club function room’ forum.

Can’t think of anyone better than @AndycruiserguyLomas for a guy to ask. And not a million miles away.

Damn! Missed this completely!

I have a Foxwell that I’ve used on Merc stuff including the (now sold ) cursed Smart Car and it came up little different to the genuine Merc Star diagnostic (minus their service info) so I was pretty pleased with it. Seemed to do what it said it would. Not stupid money and bought from Gendan who...

Try @Ryan Thomson He’s making the 80 series gullwings now and the Molle panels for them. I don’t suppose there would be a huge difference though I’m not sure how yours would fit to the door.

@Ryan Thomson

Yep. Same here. Their service when Shayne melted his braided brake pipes was beyond superb. As stated, parts next day as standard. Can’t recommend highly enough.

Happy New Year Nick, I’ve had this as a possible diagnosis when I had a new windscreen fitted by Autoglass. After I think it was attempt 4 or 5 I decided to do it myself as I could see water seeping around the glass itself in the corners. Unless the rubber is fitted with flexible screen seal (I...

Merry Christmas all! May you get all the cruiser goodies you wish for, remain/become healthy, and enjoy the time you have with whoever you count as family…

Hi all, Ryan approached me a while back about working together on the Gullwing Doors. Once we got talking it was soon apparent that he was a perfect fit for making the gullwings entirely in house. For me there was too much out of my direct control for them to be straightforward and they often...

Sounds like they are giving support based on the Mk2 (obvs). The other thing that strikes me is the 12.5v is the point at which the DCC switches to charge the starter battery. Are you noticing that the starter battery drops below this level when you would expect it to receive solar charge?

1, Bramsden 2, oneafrikan 3, Davdangler

The Mk 1 DCC would charge the starter battery. This is the feature that has been lost when the Mk2 came along with LiFePo4 charging capability. I can’t remember if yours is a Mk 1 or Mk2 without looking back.

Have you contacted Intervolt about this, Paul?

Yes, I have been making these. I hadn’t planned making any more but these may continue, so, as previously, join the list as interested parties and I will update when I know more. 1, Bramsden 2, oneafrikan