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I popped some of the little fuel filters on mine to stop anything solid/living getting in.

Can't see why your one-way system wouldn't work perfectly well. It depends on what level of vacuum is needed to open the non-return valve. The gearbox and axle casings suck in when dipped in water after being hot while driving. You might get some farting noises in the cabin as the axles get wet...

We’re here! First in for the first time ever!!

I agree. That's well thought out, beautifully constructed and finished. I like that you can get to everything. There's a few compromises its true but for a young guy on his own it clearly works and looks mint even after a year of full time living in. Good find Shayne. Ill have to post up the...

Easiest way is to put a piece of tube slightly larger and longer than the half shaft upright with the end on a wooden block, then put the end of the half shaft just in the open end of the tube (both tube and shaft in line vertically) and drop it. Be ready to catch the burfield as the half shaft...

Hope the weather sorts itself out and keeps dry!! :pray:

1) Trev (work permitting) Sat Full English x 1, Sun Bacon Egg Roll x1 2) Andy Maria and Pip 3) Nick, 2 x bacon egg, sausage roll for sunday 4) Reinhard 5) Gav etc... 6) Rich and Lynn. 2x bacon+egg roll, 2x full English.

I was so looking forward to your post Shayne. It didn’t disappoint. :lol:

Don’t start me on those I’ve never met that call me ‘Mate’. Worse still ‘Pal’. :angry-screaming:

Heard this the other day. What a character and truly one of the good guys. I don’t think he was ever really well since I met him but that never stopped him. I thought we’d lost him on the way to Clive’s in 2017 as he was behind me and wandering onto the hard shoulder. I got on the radio to see...

I am still stocking these units which are now LiFePo4 lithium battery ready. If you’re looking for a small footprint superbly made charger for a leisure battery then take a look at these as they are designed to survive working all day long under the bonnet in Australian heat. Mine is still...

Only 2 years late replying to this Lorin :doh::eusa-whistle: Is yours set to voltage sensing or ignition sensing?

I feel your pain Frank. Sadly this is the tip of a rather large iceberg. :angry-screaming:

One option would be to remove the pipes and cut off the fittings each end then braze in standard flare fittings and use standard fridge hoses between. Just de-gas first and seal the ends of the pipes left on the truck with cling film or similar while the pipes are being made up.

I think the significant phrase there is “popular in the LR community”. Need I say more…:oops:

I’ve owned my 1994 HDJ80 for 20 years. Purchase was forced by my beloved Mk1 Shogun being stolen by those types that favour them. Loved the cruiser just as much as the Shogun and it was like new being a JDM import. Been my daily driver since and still puts the ‘Cruiser Grin’ on my face every time.

Properly made refrigeration flexi hoses should last a very long time. They are high pressure like hydraulic hoses and are made for refrigerant. I’ve not done this myself but have worked round a lot of refrigeration equipment both static and mobile. There’s going to be a way to make them up and a...

:cry::cry: Why do these things come along like busses! You go for ages with nothing on the calendar and then everything decends on one weekend!! Can’t make it, sadly I’m already booked for that weekend. Oh well, at least the notification worked. Have a good one everyone.

Which of course leads straight to Land Rovers! Thing is, this isn’t the first Land Rober engine series I’ve heard of to suffer from broken crankshafts. If people didn’t buy them, maybe they might at least try and sort the issues. :think:

Do you mean this guy Frank? I found him the other day after seeing a mechanic rebuild his friends TDV6 LR engine (best use of which is a boat anchor by the looks of it).

Sad news indeed Andy. Guess his job on this earth is done. RIP Merlin. Above everything ‘dog’, you had presence.

I’ve now set an alert if anything is posted on the ‘club function room’ forum.

Can’t think of anyone better than @AndycruiserguyLomas for a guy to ask. And not a million miles away.

Damn! Missed this completely!

I have a Foxwell that I’ve used on Merc stuff including the (now sold ) cursed Smart Car and it came up little different to the genuine Merc Star diagnostic (minus their service info) so I was pretty pleased with it. Seemed to do what it said it would. Not stupid money and bought from Gendan who...

Try @Ryan Thomson He’s making the 80 series gullwings now and the Molle panels for them. I don’t suppose there would be a huge difference though I’m not sure how yours would fit to the door.

@Ryan Thomson

Yep. Same here. Their service when Shayne melted his braided brake pipes was beyond superb. As stated, parts next day as standard. Can’t recommend highly enough.

Happy New Year Nick, I’ve had this as a possible diagnosis when I had a new windscreen fitted by Autoglass. After I think it was attempt 4 or 5 I decided to do it myself as I could see water seeping around the glass itself in the corners. Unless the rubber is fitted with flexible screen seal (I...

Merry Christmas all! May you get all the cruiser goodies you wish for, remain/become healthy, and enjoy the time you have with whoever you count as family…

Hi all, Ryan approached me a while back about working together on the Gullwing Doors. Once we got talking it was soon apparent that he was a perfect fit for making the gullwings entirely in house. For me there was too much out of my direct control for them to be straightforward and they often...

Sounds like they are giving support based on the Mk2 (obvs). The other thing that strikes me is the 12.5v is the point at which the DCC switches to charge the starter battery. Are you noticing that the starter battery drops below this level when you would expect it to receive solar charge?

1, Bramsden 2, oneafrikan 3, Davdangler

The Mk 1 DCC would charge the starter battery. This is the feature that has been lost when the Mk2 came along with LiFePo4 charging capability. I can’t remember if yours is a Mk 1 or Mk2 without looking back.

Have you contacted Intervolt about this, Paul?

Yes, I have been making these. I hadn’t planned making any more but these may continue, so, as previously, join the list as interested parties and I will update when I know more. 1, Bramsden 2, oneafrikan

According to Intervolt the DCC pro (Mk1) will charge the main battery when the vehicle is switched off provided there is enough power from the solar, plus charge the leisure battery. Is your DCC Pro set to ignition control or voltage control?

What TP said. They need testing with one at least disconnected. You’ll probably find one drops down in voltage a bit more than the other over time. Best thing is to charge each with a Ctek charger over a couple of days or more. There’s a good chance a Ctek will revive them/it. If not any good...

Best thing is to use the AC at least once a week. R134A is a much smaller molecule than the R12 it replaces but hoses are the least of the problem. The compressor shaft seal is simply a lip seal and the gas leaks out there as the system is not hermetically sealed like ‘home’ units. Exercising...

See post #3 Pierre. Possibly a connector left disconnected.

Re trace your steps Pierre. Try reverting to the old box and see if lights go back out. Warning lights are there for a reason. If you meant in your title to take them out, I’d never recommend that as the problem still exists and sure as eggs is eggs it’ll bite you on the bum one day!

The best thing in my opinion is to ask in local food establishments, take seats etc who they use for their fridges. He’ll be so busy you may have to wait and/or hassle him but you’ll likely get a far better job done as he’s dedicated to refrigeration and knows the systems inside out. Garages...

Hi, Silly stuff first, have you checked fuses and fusible links are all intact? Also have you checked that your alternator is charging at the correct 14.4v +0-3?

Mine has the switch…from factory, allowing locking in high range if desired. With the factory front and rear lockers, the selector rotary switch engages the rear Diff lock first and won’t allow the front to become locked until the rear is confirmed locked by it’s switches. Neither are allowed...

Could be a broken track but the experience I had was with dead speedo and operating odometer. My trip counter has been broken for about 15 years. They get brittle and don’t like spirited use of the reset button. If you do take it apart, you’ll be surprised to find another non displaying counter...

Not sure if this will be much help but the other end of that contains a temperature sensor that gets connected to the climate control unit. The hose actually sucks a little air past the sensor so as to sample cabin air so I can only guess the other end fits into the side of the air ducting...

Can’t go wrong with over sized wiring and correct fusing.

There’s a thread on the pin 7 mod somewhere on here. Frank is right, and it’s something Toyota state iirc, that when in 4 low the centre Diff is locked to send and distribute power evenly to the 4 wheels. However the pin 7 mod is to allow 4 low on solid non slippy surfaces like tarmac, to allow...

That looks nice and neat Ben. Hope you’ve got all cables suitably fused as close to both battery terminals as practical. :thumbup: