97 1fzfe rear diff clunking

[thelal]

1997 USA 1fzfe 80 auto with 350K miles

Had a small noise (whine) from rear axle last few weeks so pulled the rear propshaft. With rear up on jacks would rear a small whine from rear diff but wouldn't tell if pinion area (had small leaking seal redone last year in Slovenia at Landcruiser shop). Oil level ok but darkish

This week (after MOT test) noticed much noiser on way home. Put one wheel up on jack and much stronger clunking noise and definitely rear diff.

Any ideas (just from the noise) or do I need to pull diff housing off to figure it out.
I'm thinking something is loose/slipped. Not done any wheeling in over a year and last road trip was to Scotland in June and all tarmac

What are options?
What parts (in advance) are needed (if order from Partsouq etc.)

Can I drive it at all?
or does it need (1 or both) axle shafts pulled - so can get to mechanic to pull it apart (presume need to stuff rag in there to hold in oil etc.)

Is a rebuild something I can do in my suburban car spot lying under it? (what tools need - dial indicator etc.)

Video on flickr at https://www.flickr.com/gp/brendanlally/3zAJ1h09z5

Thanks

 

[frank rabbets]

I would have thought that draining the oil would reveal debris which might indicate what has happened,

 

[Ben Stratford]

Sounds like something major - likely broken teeth / bearing.
Faced with that I would find a transmission shop and seek their advice.
If out in the bush in the middle of nowhere would try to remove axles and rear prop and just drive in front wheel drive only for minimum distance to get help.
Yes, would stop crud getting in axle tubes with a cloth or something.

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

Drain the diff oil, lock the diff so the locking dog is engaged and out of the way, and remove the drive shafts.

Removing the diff isn't much more work, although it's quite heavy, and whatever's wrong is going to be pretty obvious I think with a noise like that. Report back and we can give you better advice on solutions?

Did the MOT tester put it on a brake test roller instead of using a decelerometer like they're supposed to for full time 4wd? This doesn't sound like the kind of noise that starts as a wine.

 

[thelal]

..
Did the MOT tester put it on a brake test roller instead of using a decelerometer like they're supposed to for full time 4wd? This doesn't sound like the kind of noise that starts as a wine.

Would that have made an impact in that the rear prop was off ?

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

If the rear prop was off for the MOT then no, being on brake test rollers wouldn't have caused a problem.

 

[thelal]

If the rear prop was off for the MOT then no, being on brake test rollers wouldn't have caused a problem.

thats what I was thinking but good to be sure

I'll be checking for a 4x4 diff mechanic if my local guy isn't up to it. As likely it will be sitting around for awhile - depending on whats broken and needs replacing.
Still scratching my head on why its happened as not been doing any wheeling .. will await the unopening

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

If you're removing the drive shafts yourself to drive it to someone, you've done 2/3rds of the work to having the diff out Diffs can be boxed and couriered to specialists rather than being limited to someone you can drive the truck to?

 

[thelal]

Good idea

 

[thelal]

Not many shavings on drain plug and none in oil
axle shafts in good condition.
Pulled rear diff and looks in good shape (at least from what I can see) and no looseness
Appears to be grinding near pinion side
Will try and take apart tomorrow
Presume I'll need new crush sleeve and likely a bearing . Anything else?
any tips

 

[Gav missin]

I'm guessing as the rear prop was removed it was off for a reason. A worn uj can start the deterioration on the pinion bearings. Normally does the pinion seal to start with.

 

[thelal]

seems good list on parts - on mud for FR/RR diff

1997 E-LOCKER REAR AXLE
Part #	QTY	Description
42181-60070	1	GASKET, REAR DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER
41231-60030	1	SPACER, REAR DIFFERENTIAL DRIVE PINION BEARING
90366-40059	1	BEARING (FOR REAR DRIVE PINION REAR)
90366-30038	1	BEARING (FOR REAR DRIVE PINION FRONT)
41204-60050	1	FLANGE SUB-ASSY, REAR DRIVE PINION COMPANION, REAR
90311-38047	1	SEAL, OIL (FOR REAR DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER)
41214-26010	1	SLINGER, REAR DIFFERENTIAL DRIVE PINION OIL
90179-22011	1	NUT (FOR REAR DRIVE PINION)
90201-22007	1	WASHER, PLATE (FOR REAR DRIVE PINION)
90366-60002	2	BEARING(FOR REAR DIFFERENTIAL CASE)

 

[thelal]

I'm guessing as the rear prop was removed it was off for a reason. A worn uj can start the deterioration on the pinion bearings. Normally does the pinion seal to start with.

I had taken the rear propshaft off to isolate noise. U Joints are good and replaced less than a year ago with max 10K on them

 

[Gav missin]

Rules that out then.

 

[thelal]

Anyone used RoughTrax for rear diff rebuild ?
not seeing crush sleeve

 

[frank rabbets]

I would check those "planet gears?" inside the diff housing. Back in the day I had your noise and it was caused by broken planet gears.

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

Start with taking the carrier out - just undo those 4 bearing cap bolts. When you lift the carrier out, there's a shim each side, so keep track of which one goes on which side. Having the original shims makes life easier as a starting point for setting it up again after new bearings. In fact with the precision of manufacture these days you won't be far off just using those shims with new bearings.

I agree with Frank the noise sounds like a side gear missing a tooth, or it could be the pinion has a chunk missing.

 

[thelal]

awaiting on parts from RoughTrax then getting my mechanic to work on it ; as I don't have all the tools to replace new bearings etc.

 

[thelal]

Have rear diff back in (only took 3-4hrs doing mechanic yoga in my driveway with a trolley jack ; PITA)
Axles back in , new oil etc.. Sounds much better. Left it to my regular (older guy) mechanic and he thinks it lost the pinion preload and messup the lower pinion bearing. No kit form Rough Trax in with new bearings etc.

Now have the issue that rear locker won't disengage
Can hear the elec motor 'trying' to engage but It seems to be 'stuck/binding'. Tried the 9v powering but no joy.

Don't really want to disassemble and take off the rear locker but unless someone has any better idea.
Have one of the 4 bolts stripped so going to have to get 'nasty' with it !!

Note: I did engage the locker before taking out the axles, taking rear diff off.

 

[thelal]

took off cover with and could pry plunger back to the left but would spring back again. Undid the shaft lock.
Trying to get locker out now but have one top bolt thats stripping. Very little room in there unless I take off shock, spring and wheel to get some room. Even dremel won't fit in there. No room to get stud extractor in there (at least force it on)
Put on some steel epoxy on bolt (with screw upright bedded in) and will see if strong enough (doubt it) to twist it out.
May see if can get hacksaw in there to saw off bolt head - otherwise need to get a welding buddy to do a home visit