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97 1fzfe rear diff clunking

If still OEM those bolt heads are very soft. Hammering an undersize socket or spanner on usually works or there are special sockets designed to grip rounded heads like this.
 
Jon, I'll give it another go but very little room up top (unless take off spring etc.)
My steel epoxy lasted 5 secs and came off
Otherwise will try a sideways dremel to slow cut it off (in slices)!
 
Took wheel off and more room. Finally managed (wild cold chisel and buddy) to get bolt off. Locker removed.
Took off elec cylinder (3 Philips screws) and 2 of magnets loose - that explains why not moving with electrics
Tried to get 3 10mm bolts off other cover and all three snapped!! Awh!!
Anyone know the pitch and size of those 3 so can drill out and retap
Thanks
 
Got bolt off and disconnected locker from axle ok.
Got electric cover off ok but all 3 bolts on other cover snapped. Had to drill each of them out and retap.
All looks good inside (other than perished o-rings) so putting back together and will bench test. Some good posts/videos on ih8mud for realignment etc
 
I used JB Weld to glue the magnets back in on mine and they have been fine for the last 3 years, touch wood. I know I've just jinxed myself now
 
I feel for you Brendan! It’s a right pain when bolts start stripping or breaking.
 
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All cleaned and ready to go back in.
Bench testing after regluing 2 Magnets back.
Getting no movement when power to pin 1 & 2. Feel tiny "attempt" but no cigar (note: no gears connected so no pressue- just shaft)
Feels like its binding a bit although it can spin in the cover on its own.
Took 2 Magnets back off, recleaned and only put glue at bottom this time. As on ih8mud indicated no glue behind it as pushs it too far out.
No difference
Feel like I need to trim magnets down a little and give more of a gap.

Any suggestions?

Thought about switching in the Front (magnets) cover from FR locker but doesn't seem to be the same and doesn't appear easy to get off (just the cover). Seems like I'd have to take all the locker out

May just put it back unlocked and leave it alone and source a good 2nd-hand one to swap/compare bits
 
Do the magnet have to go on in a particular order or orientation ?
 
I have them in a NSNS orientation. So each opposite magnet is the same.
I didn't check the polarity (as it appeared via mud not needed) but maybe thats whats wrong (how do I do that?).
I'm going to check via calipers that the two re-aligned magnets match the two original (and undisturbed) magnets
 
I haven't played with motors at this level for a while, but I think opposite magnets are supposed to have opposite polarity.
 
Do the magnet have to go on in a particular order or orientation ?
They have a 'compass' orientation (either N or S) but going around the cover they need to be in a N-S-N-S orientation. There is no difference twisting them 180 degree 0 from up to down and v.v.
They do change polarity if you twist them horz but then don't fit in cover probably.
 
Got it working in the end. Was trying to to contunity testing for in & out per video but was too hard to get right
My motor was a bit 'chopy' when applying power so couldn't get it to stay at 2-7/8 when extended.
When putting locker back on the shift fork wouldn't line up so had to have locker about 2mm out, screw in shift fork bolt, then apply power to move actuator and "suck it back in". That worked and able to bolt it all back up ok.

Small spin on rear tyre and unlocked fine.

Spin tomorrow to check if rear diff all good
 
I have them in a NSNS orientation. So each opposite magnet is the same.
I didn't check the polarity (as it appeared via mud not needed) but maybe thats whats wrong (how do I do that?).
I'm going to check via calipers that the two re-aligned magnets match the two original (and undisturbed) magnets
I thought I had it in a NSNS orientation but once checked via a real compass it was NSSN. Unglued the last two (SN) and reset as NS so NSNS finally and that got the motor working (w/o the gear)
Once gear in its stiffer.
 
YYY
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