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A different approach to 80 series front axle rebuilds. Really?

Way back in the mists of time I remember a kawasaki TSB regarding noisy diffs (in the shaft drive ranges)
Basically don't run them in on the motorway, it's bad for the engine, gearbox and diff.
Something about the pinion running on the same spot caused localised overheating and softening of the pinion gear (or was it the ring gear?)
Anyway, the result was the same. Until all the high spots were rubbed off don't hold constant speed.......
Too late for you obviously, some director already did that for you but it might explain a noisy diff with nothing wrong with it.
 
And there may be some merit in that, who knows.

Anyway, if the weather looks good at the weekend, I might get the spanners out again. Loads to do.
 
Is it time for my pills now?
Only if they will fix your diff noise :lol: Give the diff to me at Donnington if you want was the point but yes Frank is coming as well.
 
I might try stuffing them in my ears Jon. Went out again today for a spin and couldn't really get any speed up, but with it being really cold and the oil being consequently thicker it was a bit quieter. But you could still hear it start to wind up once I got to about 40. If it's dry on Sat or Sun, I shall p'raps whip it out. Got work to do on the other one though as I have 2 days of mud coming up.

Not sure I want much at the show, but it's a day out.
 
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Right. Pulled the diff before breakfast today and shoved the other spare one in.

Aaaahhhhh. All quiet again. Frankly I think that one can stay in there. Unless someone wants to do some diff swap practice whilst I sit and drink tea.
 
Yes.




No.




Errm.




Maybe.




Hang on...




Do you think I should?





How much should I put in?



Should I fill it past the hole?
 
Well the breakfast weatherman said, ‘If you are planning to work on your drive today, I’d crack on ‘cos it looks shite for later’ So by 09.15 the front diff was out.

View attachment 11343

I have to say it really is in excellent fettle. In terms of pre load and back lash it feels like a new one. Zero evidence of wear or anything. Shame I don’t have a use for a manual diff.

View attachment 11344

Here’s the one from stock. Done very few miles and comes from the JW diff clinic. Again, very smooth, backlash and preload all silky smooth. So this is a 4.1 which should bring everything back to square with the 35’s on. Not, I have to say that I have noticed any issues at all on the original ratios except the speedo reading incorrectly by some margin.

View attachment 11345

The rebuild here isn't just the diff and axles, it's really the front end. Not inc the brakes on this run, but it does include the steering rods.

I hadn't noticed any real wear in the track end joints, but they are as we know, notoriously hard to shift sometimes and when I took the Silver Phoenix to be tracked last time they actually popped a joint by swinging on it. We had heated it and sprayed it but just could not move the threads at all. So, the was really a good time for some PM.

View attachment 11346

Just as well really as they took some real shifting on the bench..totally solid.

The threads needed a bit of a clean out so I used the old home made thread chaser trick by cutting a nick out of the old one and screwed that in several times to clear out the deepest thread section.

View attachment 11347

These are Milner ones, yes. I have used them before and never had a problem with them. They seem well made.

View attachment 11348

New ends in - I have done all 4 on the track and relay rod, but they all look the same. No, they aren't the same, I said they all just look the same :icon-rolleyes: for the purposes of the thread.

View attachment 11349


Took the opportunity to put some new nuts and bolts in there too. The rod turns by hand it's so slick after the clean. The little chap at the tyre shed where I go will think it's his birthday when he comes to track this one. I measured the positions of the old ones before I took them out so they will be pretty much right when I rebuild the steering. Close enough to drive round the corner for sure.

And that's that.

Chris, how did you end up shifting the ends? My thinking was to pop them off and then as i don't have oxy make a barbie and stick one end in at a time heat them up and then hope they come off in the vice??

Can you recommend a ball joint tool to use or just a BFH?

Like you I have ordered all new ends from Milners.
 
Warren, have you seen the size of me?

Basically that is how I got them off. Some technique and the rest was just pie power. Jeez they were tight.

I removed the bolt and clamp completely. Then really wire brushed them up good. Dirt in the threads can be as good as a weld. I don't have oxy either but I do have a plumber's torch. I heated them up and cooled them down with penetrating oil. Then used a big pair of stilsons on them. With a pipe on the handle. I get them moving them cleaned up again and heated / cooled them. Don't just go for it. Work them on the spot for a bit to get some slack in there. In the end I also widened the split with a hammer and chisel to give the thread some more room. I was knackered at the end.

To get the joints split at the hub, I agree with Andy. That type of splitter never fails. I keep one in the off roader all the time. Gets a lot of use. Not on my truck obviously!


Oooh got new Toyota CVs today. So they'll be going in first bit of fine weather we get. Have to say i was disappointed to find out they are not gold plated. They don't look Wow Fantastic at all. They just look like any other CV I have seen other than the Longfields which are beautiful. I see that Pedders do a CV at £119. Worth finding out just what they are like. I think we are all in need of good, mid priced CVs.
 
Chris. Would it be at all possible for you to do a sort of shopping list for a rebuild. With 80 axles going in Dirty Gal I think for the work and effort I will be going through to fit them It makes sense to overhaul them before they go in. However I know not a great deal about 80's so a little guidance would go a long way. walking through this thread has given me alot of info and the pics are invaluable, however a list that I can just present to Toyota or milners would really help me out (no to mention planning for the cost).

Cheers
Chris
 
Oooh got new Toyota CVs today. So they'll be going in first bit of fine weather we get. Have to say i was disappointed to find out they are not gold plated.
Sorry about that Chris, I'm sure it could be arranged for the right money though :lol:
 
To be fair Jon I know you said they weren't. I had just hoped there'd been a mistake and they'd boxed up the wrong ones. It happens.

Chris - of course, but do you know I am sure we've done this already somewhere. I need to look.
 
To get the joints split at the hub, I agree with Andy. That type of splitter never fails.

Smashed 2 of them on my E-class trying to split one ball joint. In the end we cobbled together a 3rd from the left over bits that hadn't broken and managed to get it to pop - even with my not inconsiderable bulk and strength on the end of a solid bar it was still a drawn out fight.
 
I've never had to buy a ball joint splitter (yet). Impact is what you need so try using a lump hammer held against one side of the joint and another lump hammer banging against the other side as if trying to crush the joint. Then put a nut on to protect the thread and try and hold as heavy a weight on as possible on the arm and use the hammer against the nut. No use banging with things springing about. There were no splitters when I started on cars so perhaps I'm still doing things the hard way.
 
Yep Frank, its the hard way!! mind you its the way we still do it on the commercial vehicles ( to a fine art with a watchmakers hammer and a jewellers hammer)

Andy
 
You can use this as a start (list originally from ih8mud)


90313-93003 $27.22 ea x2 Dust Seal
43436-60011 $ 1.14 ea x2 Inner Spindle Gasket
43435-60020 $ 1.03 ea x2 Outer Spindle Gasket
43204-60031 $27.35 ea x2 Dust Seal & wiper Kit
43422-60060 $ 1.51 ea x2 Hub Gasket

90311-62001 $12.02 ea x2 Grease seals for wheel
90310-35010 $ 6.26 ea x2 Inner axle oil seals
09607-60020-01 $32.95 ea x1 54mm hub socket, SST
90366-20003 $22.38 ea x4 Knuckle Bearings & races (Koyo: 30304AJR-2-N Hi cap)
90368-49084-77 $50.90 ea x2 Inner wheel bearings, Timken bearing #JLM104948, race #JLM104910
90368-45087-77 $43.85 ea x2 Outer wheel bearings, Timken bearing #LM102949 , race #LM102910
90215-42025 $ 2.81 ea x2 Tabbed Spindle Lock Washer

90521-34005 $ 2.69 ea x2 C-clip for inner axle to birfield (43411C in the diagram below)
90520-31007 $ 2.57 ea x2 Snap ring for outer axle
90126-12005 $ 1.57 ea x8 New style lower knuckle studs (added 13.May.2005)


 
Thanks Grant. That will make a good base to go from.

Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk 2
 
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